6th Gen ('00-'05): Steering Rack Replacement
Anyone done this? I just pulled into my driveway today and saw a couple drips on the way up it slick up in the rain, next thing I know there's a puddle of power steering fluid on the garage floor and my power steering is gone. The pump itself looks ok but on the back the header is soaked and smoking and fluid is spraying out so I figure I have to replace the whole rack. Any tips or ideas?
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 12,605
From: Mentor, Ohio
Check the lines from the rack to the pump first. *Usually* the high pressure line gives before the rack.
Another situation I've seen is the metal lines that are on the rack itself go bad (potentially, you could service those but it would be easiest with the rack out).
I have yet to do a rack on a W-body, but I've done a couple md-90's Grand Ams. It's all about the same, give or take.
BUT, from what I have studied on the w-body, here's what is involved in the rack (again, check the lines first):
- Disconnect the outer tie rods from the struts (if you wish to re-use the outer tie rods, you'll need to separate them at any time you deem convenient).
- Disconnect the lines that go from the pump to the rack (I've changed one of those before, it's a tight squeeze to get a wrench on it). IMO, prepare to cut and replace the lines. If the rack is truly bad, the lines can't be too far from going too, this would just be an ideal time to change them and avoid a headache later.
- Remove the bolt holding the intermediate shaft to the rack.
- There is a nut and bolt holding it on the left and right side, pop those free.
The biggest pain IMO is dealing with the intermediate shaft (I had my entire dash apart and I think the single longest task was getting the column back in because of the intermediate shaft).
Another situation I've seen is the metal lines that are on the rack itself go bad (potentially, you could service those but it would be easiest with the rack out).
I have yet to do a rack on a W-body, but I've done a couple md-90's Grand Ams. It's all about the same, give or take.
BUT, from what I have studied on the w-body, here's what is involved in the rack (again, check the lines first):
- Disconnect the outer tie rods from the struts (if you wish to re-use the outer tie rods, you'll need to separate them at any time you deem convenient).
- Disconnect the lines that go from the pump to the rack (I've changed one of those before, it's a tight squeeze to get a wrench on it). IMO, prepare to cut and replace the lines. If the rack is truly bad, the lines can't be too far from going too, this would just be an ideal time to change them and avoid a headache later.
- Remove the bolt holding the intermediate shaft to the rack.
- There is a nut and bolt holding it on the left and right side, pop those free.
The biggest pain IMO is dealing with the intermediate shaft (I had my entire dash apart and I think the single longest task was getting the column back in because of the intermediate shaft).
I replaced the rack in my 2001 Impala afew years back and it wasn't hard to do. I removed the front tires an put it on jack stands., Took it out the driver's side.
There's a write up I found on ClubGP, seems pretty straight forward. I think one of the metal lines went on top of the rack. I can see the line outs from the pump they seem good, I probably should get in there and replace them too but it's such a PITA to get back there with the engine still in the bay. Thanks for the input guys. I'll be tackling this(and whatever else decides to go during the process) this weekend.
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