thats on the tips, its the one thats on both sides and conects to a bracket in the middle of the gas tank. also im not looking for amzing handling, just replacing thin/bent parts.

 

[quote] #2... I actually just fixed my buddies GTP because he backed into a pole and bent his lateral arm and trailing arm on the drivers side. #8 and #9 in the picture above. If you are talking inward as in left to right and not up and down then you probably bent one of those or both. The lateral arm that is toward the rear of the car is easy to replace but the one more toward the font you have to drop the gas tank a little to get the bolts or drop (#2) in the pic, which is the bracket that holds everything. The trailing arm is pretty easy but the bolt that holds it to the knuckle can be hard to take off. That bolt is a 24mm in case you go to take it off. I had to heat mine up with a torch to get it loose. Other people use the ZZP super thick lateral arms and ZZP trailing arms, but I have heard this really doesn't improve the handling THAT much. Dorman sells both the lateral arms and a solid trailing arm that you could use to replace the "U" shaped ones that are already in there. Hope that helps![/quote]
G-Man writes: Correct IF wheel is moved forward or rearward in the wheel opening (which can be viewed by simly looking at the placement of the wheel/tire in the opening or measured) something is bent. However, the trailing arm would be severely bent or broken. Toe-in/toe-out refers to the "track" of the tire front to rear. Too much of either will show wear/cupping very very quickly on tread. Camber is the "incline" of the tire. Tilting inward on the top of tire is negative camner; tilting outward at top of tire is positive camber. Lowering springs could cause negative camber. Too much weight in trunk could cause negative camber. When Goodyear aligned the rear of Mak's car w/ junk in trunk they probably aligned it properly OR told him they could not BECAUSE there is not enough adjustment left in the rods. In fact., the '07 M/C only adjusts toe not camber. I believe one needs BMR type rods which allow camber adj.
You are also correct in that the 1.25" BMR rods will not drastically improve handling for most road use. The factory rods on the '07 are engineered by GM to meet most requirements of a driver. They will not however adjust camber as only one rod is adjust. Mak; using the BMR rods will not make your '07 any stronger. The OEM items are as strong as they need to be. GM uses the stamped steel or tubluar (in newer years) all thru the car line Chevrolet to Cadillac. "baring a major wreck" is not the basis to spend more money to alter a problem caused by too much weight in trunk. Did you try removing the weight in trunk to see if camber straightens out? How much weight is in the trunk? Why carry extra weight and pay more for gas? Actually BMR's will bend as easy as OEM if you back over someting. You could spend $500 for BMR and have the same problem. BMR's will not carry any more weight than OEM. OEM just looks worse because it is used and not painted red. If you want to spend the money because you worked 50 hours and need to show something for your effort then spend the money; I'd do the same. The Dorman laterals are stamped. I believe they only fit '95 to '99..the '07's are round with adjust on the leading rod....anyone please confirm.
Mak330 beefier arms will not increase the weight carring capacty of your car. The OEM/ BMR arms do not carry the weight. The weight is carried by the spring and controlled by the shock, Either use a higher rated spring, remove weight from the trunk or live with the existing condition. There are no other options. Period! If the rods are bent they were bent doing something like driving over a curb or a bump which allowed something to hit a rod or two. Then they bent The STB will improve the flex of the shock tower and "tighten" the handling.
Read previous post about toe-in/toe-out. It will no improve traction but it will improve steerability/handling. If toe is incorrect the car will drive poorly and as stated wear/cup tire. New tires can be worn out in a few(under 5) thousand miles. Instead, a properly aligned car, tires will last 40,000 miles or more.
Lastly The W car suspension might be state of the art. Independant rear. lightweight laterals (remember the indy car setup), front and rear discs. replaceble rear strut. cartridge front shock. Upgrade parts avail ( STB's lowering springs). Wish other car were as easy to adjust/ work on.
MAK330 you need to return the car toi Goodyear and have a pro inspect the car.. probably for free. They can check for broke or bent parts. confirm that it is an alignment problem either toe or camber or a weight problem. Then decide to make changes.

 

thanks for the read.

i know i asked somewhere on this thread about the rear heightening springs fromt he w-body store, or maybe ss springs.

i have to take a pic someday, it deffiantly sits about 1.5 to 2 inches lower in the back, then the front.

i understand arms dont carry weight, but they do allow for more adjustment then stock.

i have never backed over anything, like your taalking about. the roads are horrible everywhere, around me. maybe i hit to many bumps.

its not bent that bad, but looks [with a closer inspection] like it is streched to its last thread and the connection is weaker then the oem design.

i deffinatley have a camber broblem, but dont have any cuppling of my tires. they have almost zero curve to them{more contact with the road}.

im not trying to down chevy or anything like that, no need to be offended. i just wanted to know what the part i was looking to order was called. didnt want to get the wrong thing. every time i go to summit, it take forever to get my order[30 minutes] at least and dont feel like waiting in line twice.

maybe i wont get the whole package, but i want most of it.

i wouldnt be getting the red ones anyways, i like the "silver vein" color better.