i think this motor is definitely capable of making the power advertised. its an aluminum headed small block, with compression, some cubes, and a little cam to it. call them up and find out what jetting and initial and advanced timing they used on the dyno. i assume that it was shipped to you the way they dynoed it but we all no what happens when you assume. also what stall speed are you running? you have alot of gearing with the 3.73s and the 700 so hooking up at the suggested stall speed of 2500rpm is going to be tough on a street tire with a stock suspension. im running a very similar setup as you and its tough to come out at stall speed. your traps being so low theres definitely an issue but i dont think its a miss advertised hp rating.call them up and find out the deal. get the traps up then work on the 60s. i recommend a sticky wide tire and at least a set of slapper bars. good luck. and for what its worth i dont think you got robbed it just needs some tuning. and the 700 isnt computer controlled.

 

Im pretty sure I didnt get robbed and i too believe it just needs to be tuned. I called smeding already they told me 12-16 initial and 34-36 advance i am running about 15 and 35. I bought the car like it is with the motor and everything the tranny has a new rebuild and so does the rear end. I have 17000 in reciepts not including the "car" and the paint job. I paid 11000 so i think i did ok. Is there any thing electrically that could have caused a loss of power. I was messing with the alt connections today and afterwards the car just seemed to respond a lot different. I didnt buy it for the track but i would still like to have it putting out what it should. You guys have been alot of help Thank You.

 

holey cow! r u saying u have almost 30k in ur monte??? ide be pissed for anything over 10 seconds and 2nd place at a car show....lol

 

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I definitely think something is wrong somewhere. Part of it could be with the engine dyno- I know a lot of times they seem to dyno it like the old muscle cars- stripped of all accessories- so you lose horsepower right away putting all that stuff on (AC, PS, alt, etc)- but even then, you're definitely still awfully slow for the power, as mentioned above.

I also agree with Zipper- I think power output at the engine is probably closer to 240-250 with those times. In my GP (325 cid V8 with just intake and exhaust) I was doing 14.2's (traction limited) @ 100 in a car that's rated about 300 crank hp stock, and tends to put down about 240 hp at the wheels.

Two things I would look at- one is the arcing you saw from the plug wire. You need new wires, or something needs fixed there if its even arcing at idle; its probably misfiring like crazy at WOT. Second is, I would take it for a few WOT runs and see what the trans is actually shifting at (at least 1-2); I'd imagine you should easily be shifting over 5000 rpm- if its anywhere down near the mid 3000's like you said, that could be killing your times too (although I figure you'd notice the engine lugging like crazy and shifting super early).

If you're having trouble finding out the problem; maybe your best bet would be to take it to a local dyno shop (if you have one) and have them troubleshoot it on the dyno to figure out why you're so down on power at WOT. At least then, you could have actual wheel horsepower numbers to see how much power the engine is actually putting out without being inflated by the engine shop.

 

does this mean you have $28,000 in your car????

 

Reading comprehension? I paid $11000 the reciepts came with the car from the other guy. He put $17000 in it and that is just for the upgrades and repairs i.e. engine tranny rebuild rear end and alot of other stuff. So again I am in it for $11000.

 

I think it is grammatical comprehension on your part. The over use of run on and fragmented sentences leads one to believe the periods should be replaced by commas. Resulting in an association of the 17k with motor, transmission, and rear end. leaving the 11k for the car and paint. Please excuse my confusion of the English language.

"I have 17000 in receipts not including the "car" and the paint job. I paid 11000 so i think i did ok."

what i read: "I have 17000 in receipts not including the "car" and the paint job, I paid 11000 (for the car and paint) so i think i did ok." as you left a dollar value for "the car and paint" unevaluated.

A correct way to convey your idea would be: "I payed 11,000 for the car, and they previous owner gave me 17,000 in receipts just for parts!"
This would let the forum know you spent 11,000 while the previous owner spent 17k in drive train alone.


but thank you, it is more clear now. I also believe you have been had. Check the engine block serial numbers and reference the shop who built the engine, they should have record of this. The old "bait and switch"

 

ridiculous^^^^ you seem to be the only person who didnt get it and more importantly the only person that would have cared if he spent 30k for the car.

any updates on this situation? im curious. oh and question what heads are on this thing? i saw theyre aluminum just curious as to what they are.

 

Jlpete, I just read through your entire thread from the start. I think alot of people are giving some good advice and thought into why you are running so slow. One of the first things i would start off with is double checking all the easy fixes first. I would make sure that my timing is right where it needs to be. That would be somewhere around 36 total timing. But, it all depends on the motor. Not all motors want the same timing. The carb is going to be another I would check. More than likely the jetting may need tweaked due to where they tunes it compared to where you are running at. And the float levels, air fuel mixture, even the power valve. Hook it to a vaccuum gauge and set the mixture screws when you get the best readings. As for the power valve hook up a gauge and take it for a spin and see what it is pulling when under a load, then spit it in to and that is what you need to be runnning in the front of the carb. What is the spark plug gap? Pull them and check them out and make sure that they are burning correctly. If you are unsure then replace and make sure you gap them at IIRC .35 gap for a sbc. If the gaps are to tight then that can take away a ton of power, same goes for to much gap.

The 700r4 is a good torque transmission for the track they have a good low first gear to aid in your take off. I would really think that you are not running enough converter to take advantage of the hp and trq that motor is making. You need a minumum of 2500 for that motor. You already have 3.73 posi in that from the factory. You definetely need to get some Mickey Thompson Street E.T.'s for traction. I am running those for my Monte with a 406 sbc. I pull the front tires with my setup. Anyways, you can get a set of 26x10.5x15 and will lower your sixties alot. The stock suspension is not up to snuff either. You need to get some upper and lower rear control arms to take advantage of the power level when it is all dialed in. I have mine from UMI and they work great. Lastly you should be shifting that thing manually for any racing. I would shift around 5600 or 5700. This will keep you in the power band for the cam. If you work on checking this stuff over and get it right you should be in the low 12's if not high 11's with that hp it is supposed to make. If you need anymore help just let me know. I maybe new here but have been racing my monte for over 15 years now.