is shipping expensive or is that part of the price
I am glad I learned about the trans before I did anything that would cause other problems
I will make all this a longer term plan and start with the trans in mind .... before the advice here had thought could just invest in a turbo and no worries....might have been a bad move but what does the shop care if they get more business by not starting the upgrade at the trans level.
Thanks again, people here are so knowledgeable and helpful
It has really helped me to think this through a lot more

 

Shipping and the core charge are not listed on most of the prices, shipping for my trans is $350 round trip and core charges vary depending on the transmission model. Me personally, i just mod until the trans goes, then deal with it then. If this is your only car then yes it would be wise to do the trans first.

 

is daily driver, also have a s10 to drive in winter but it has been a money pit with electrical problems and now has a intermittent hard shift issue ..... can have two rigs with bad trans LOL

 

Yea best to do the trans first then probably so you're not without it unexpectedly

 

yup and budget for the S10 work also so can let the MC sit out the winter ice melt and gravel they use here ..... maybe I better focus this summer on enjoying what I have and fixing the truck to get me to work all winter
winters are long here in MT

 

This thread is full of lots of information. I think the take away question is, what do you want to achieve in the end? Do you just want a little more power, if so, you can get some mods and a tune for the car the way it sits. In most cases the tune is after installing all the mods as you cannot "pre-tune" and use that tune for mods you have not done yet.

If I were in you shoes, I would decide if I wanted to top swap and pretty much stop there, full swap for an L67 (and if you did, lots of stuff you can refresh before putting it in, such as head gaskets on up), or go for a turbo.
As for the Trans, the L67 and L36 both use a 4T65e. The L67 has the "HD" (heavy duty) version, which I believe is a beefier differential and a shorter axle on the one side. Sad part is, from my understanding, the HD model still has the same weak parts that end up failing. As for the trans, best bet is, look at the site for TEP (there are a bunch of people that can testify, TEP is the shop to work with) and get an idea of the overall cost. From there, make sure you have those funds if you need to rely on the car.

Being in the planning phase, lots to think about. Take your time, do your homework and you well find what works for your wants and budget.

 

All of this info is correct, you can swap in a 4t65e HD trans bit you will need the passenger side axle with it as the HD has a heavy duty diff which makes the axle shorter. Also the HD version has 2.93 gears where the non HD version which you currently have has 3.29 gears. The diff is not the problem with these trans though, the failure points are input shafts, chain and gear sets, clutches, convertor, solenoids, bands, 4th gear hub, and the list goes on. But all of these weak components have solutions and upgrades that TEP can do. Plan on around $2000 for a basic street/ strip build and then up from there depending on what other mods you need done to the trans depending on your power goals but that you will discuss with Dave at tep. That price does not include shipping or the core, not sure what the core cost isavings but shipping as mentioned already will be around $350.

If you have a hp goal in mind we could further assistance you with the easiest way to achieve that power goal or give you the options to get to that goal etc.

 

Thanks Jason and all that commented.
very true, a lot to think about and plan.
I will as you suggest do research and try to put together a goal and a plan to get it done.
Although with the s10 overdrive hard shift issue I should look into that first as the MC is sound and dependable right now, but would rather not drive it in the winter.
I will try to update this as the goal and plan become more clear.
Thanks again for all this great information.
the MCF rocks

 

another question, as the upgrades have been on hold. should I try to enclose the short ram air intake that was put on during prep for the original top swap plan
I live in MT so it never gets that hot here but the air filter is about 2" from the original air system I put the first peace back on as it holds the PCM ..... should I consider closing the air intake while saving for bigger changes or just keep saving and get one big move done
you guys are awesome and I respect all of you opinions
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in all honesty if it were me i would just wait, you wont see a difference in performance even if you did close it in because its so minimal