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Using wax to protect the paint - question.

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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 11:36 AM
  #11  
Joe Bloggs's Avatar
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I appreciate the input from everyone. I do have one more question, I took it too a car wash where the people run it through the machine and dry it off and then do a basic interior cleaning.

I pointed out a scratch and the guy put something on that removed the scratch.. however it looks a little dull there now,, this was about a day or two ago. What could he have used? It removed the scratch, but left a spot. Should I try buffing or wiping it?
 
Old Dec 1, 2009 | 11:41 AM
  #12  
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He probably used rubbing compound, which is not safe for clear coats. You can try and polish, wax it, and that might bring it back.

The Meguirers Scratch-X I recommended in my other post is CLEAR COAT SAFE, this is what you should use for removing scratches.

Anything you buy whether it is polish, wax, or some sort of rubbing compound, make sure it is clear coat safe and you will be fine.
 
Old Dec 1, 2009 | 01:04 PM
  #13  
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I was really upset to see that blemish. I thought they would know better. I am going to start washing and vacumming my own car for now on! I will use the products you recommended.
 
Old Dec 1, 2009 | 01:24 PM
  #14  
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Default ...car wax

.......Just don't buy that Armor-All car wash solution. I tried that
stuff one time and it is aweful. It leaves the car feeling too oily.
Blue Corral and Meguires are good soaps. When you take the time
to hand wash your car; You will get a better result. And get a feeling of pride and satisfaction.
Don't forget to apply a protectant on all the black colored body
moldings, mirrors and wiperarms. That black can fade if not cared for.
Good Luck
 
Old Dec 1, 2009 | 06:54 PM
  #15  
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id just like to point out that those swirl scratches and can be removed:P just not with a wax

im sure if u have any kind of winter at all....every summer you'll see lots nasty snow brush scratches. sure we all try to be carfeul, but when its -40 degress cel and your freezing your ***** off, u just want the snow off the car.. and now!

i usually use a 2000 to 2500 grit wetsand paper to remove the scratces etc then buff it out using a power polisher/cotton pad (air) and mother's fine cut polish #3.

then i swap to a foam pad on an electric polisher (variable speed setting on 1) and use a clear coat glaze to shine up the clear coat and remove the swirls. then i use a spray on mother's paint protectant (cant remeber exact name) and wipe off

also try using some diamond kote on your clear coat.. expensive tho
http://www.diamondkote.com/dkgold_paintpro.htm
 
Old Dec 1, 2009 | 08:39 PM
  #16  
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Hey Joe where you live ill do it lol. Im trying to start my own Detail Business called Vanity Detailing outta Fort Atkinson, WI "cough cough for all ppl intrested in WI"

But i did c alot of good infomation here

Personally i would use a Meguries clay bar then Meguries Ultimate Compound to get the scratches, blemishes, light oxidation out and then follow with Meguries tech wax 2.0. "this is recommended off the bottle."

I use a high speed buffer and if your call is silver use a wool pad. I have seen really amazing results.
 
Old Dec 3, 2009 | 12:25 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Joe Bloggs
Is it a good idea to use wax to protect the original paint job? Will wax damage the paint or preserve it? If so, what is the best wax to use? Also, is there any advise to offer on protecting paint?

Also, what about removing scratches?
I love this subject!! I own my own detailing business and have posted some of my work here. Do a search and you'll see the results I get.

It's a very good idea to wax the paint, but only after you have done the appropriate prep work. If this car is new to you or has never been detailed to your knowledge then you should wash/clay/polish/wax or seal it. Can't really say what's the "best" wax, it's like asking what's the best type of music....we all like what we like for the reasons we like it. As for the scratches, if your fingernail gets caught in the scratch you're not likely to do much for removing it short of wetsanding or more. Fine scratches can be removed though during the polishing step.

Originally Posted by jaws2008
a true wax will last a month. ur best bet for a long run is using a synthetic sealant such as meguiars nxt generation tech wax 2.0

if u want it to shine b4 putting on wax or sealant put on a true polish such as meguiars show car #7(professional brand i think)
Good info here! I will just add that if you want the best look/durability combo, use a sealant followed by a coat of wax

Originally Posted by nascar43
One other thing you may want to consider is using a Clay-Bar.
This will remove any dirt, road grime and some bugs.

You will want to clay-bar first and then polish it.
Yep, clay bar is the ****! But don't use it to remove dirt or road grime, unless you like putting swirls in your paint. You should only clay bar your car after washing it, and if you still have dirt and road grime on your car after washing it then you definitely should leave the detailing to a professional.

Originally Posted by Chevy Commando
I have never used a clay bar before but I have seen it in action and it does a very good job but it seems like it is some work.
Claying is actually one of the easiest and fastest steps in the detailing process and takes very little effort.

Originally Posted by nascar43
The clay-bars do require some elbow grease
but it is worth it.
If you're using elbow grease to clay your car then you are definitely doing it wrong!

Originally Posted by gothkid
I use a high speed buffer and if your call is silver use a wool pad.
Why does the color of the paint determine what type of pad you use? I always determine what type of pad I use based on the level of correction I need to achieve or what product i'm using. Example, if i'm applying a sealant or wax, I'd use a foam finishing pad.
 
Old Dec 4, 2009 | 10:20 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 04MonteLS
Why does the color of the paint determine what type of pad you use? I always determine what type of pad I use based on the level of correction I need to achieve or what product i'm using. Example, if i'm applying a sealant or wax, I'd use a foam finishing pad.
As you should use a Finishing foam pad for polish or sealant. But when your using compound it is best to use a wool pad on a color without pigment. Thus limits the chances of swirls and shadows.
 
Old Dec 4, 2009 | 11:47 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by gothkid
As you should use a Finishing foam pad for polish or sealant. But when your using compound it is best to use a wool pad on a color without pigment. Thus limits the chances of swirls and shadows.
Since swirls are fine scratches in the clear coat, I guess I don't understand how the pigment, or lack of, in the color affects the pads ability to induce swirls. Not that I don't believe you, I've just never heard such a thing and don't really understand the logic.

BTW, I've never used a wool pad ever, i'm skurred!
 
Old Dec 18, 2009 | 08:29 PM
  #20  
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spammer alert, get on it mods?????


edit, previous post before this was a bunch of spam/garbage and has been deleted, thanks Wayne, now let's get back to the original topic and ignore this post! thanks
 

Last edited by monte carlo 3831; Dec 18, 2009 at 09:26 PM. Reason: eidt due to a spam alert!
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