Love this!

 

Upsides and downsides this weekend.

Got a call from the truss design company and we're stuck. They can't meet the maximum deflection within the outer envelope defined by the drawing, regardless what OC spacing is used. Even at the max deflection (1.5") and minimum design, the trusses are above the front parapet wall by a few inches. That won't work as it still needs the roof sheathing, a diagonal cut 4x4 cant/corner block, 6" of flat roof material run up the wall and a double top plate above an beyond the top of the truss, which puts us about a full foot over design.

I'm going to try the easy way out with a change request to the city - I'm going to try just upping the parapet wall height a foot or so (along with the necessary updates to truss height) and see if they'll approve. I could've swore the max overall height Id picked was a city ordinance, but I can't find it now - so perhaps that part was repealed. Fingers crossed. Worst case I'll have to lower the interior ceiling height to drop the trusses down but thatll require a bunch more drawing changes.


On the upside I made some good progress on rebar - its all 100% done. Ended up just 200 feet short of 3/4 mile of rebar altogether. Hands are wrecked, but at least its over.




Next up is finishing the forms for the curbs and making up brackets for the J bolts. Hoping for foundation inspection in 2 weeks with some concrete soon after...

 

Wrapped up the curb forms and the anchor bolt holders.

What a pain the anchor bolts were! I needed about 55 altogether, but had longer than usual 12" called out due to the narrow curb. Home Depot had a 50 pack online for a good price, but Lowes was cheaper buying the rest of the 1 offs.

The handful from Lowes show up pre-assembled (nut and washer on the anchor already) and worked great. The Home Depot bulk 50 pack comes as separate pieces, no big deal I thought. Wrong. About a third won't start at all. A third start but need alarming force to screw on (anchor in a vise, 1/2" breaker bar works but is obviously twisting the whole shaft). The last third start by hand and could probably be put on with a regular 3/8 ratchet.

As inspection is already scheduled and the bulk pack was a special order, I ended up having to same day a die off of Amazon. Ran it over every one from the bulk pack - removed tons of material. Looked like 80% of the issues were from way excessive galvanize with the other 20% just being very poorly formed thread - especially at the start.

Oh well, they all thread on beautifully now.




Just had inspection this morning and passed. Now time for some concrete. I'm going to do a handful more minor reinforcements (tying the inner curb forms with some tie plates, adding some reinforcement at the doors) that I couldn't get done in time for inspection, but hopefully we'll have some liquid rock soon enough...

 

Wow that is pretty impressive. Last year I rebuilt the backyard shed that was destroyed in the Hail Storm of 2022. I couldn't get anyone to do it so finally i gave up and did it myself this time instead of the Tin shed I built it out of wood, Built my own Trusses used to engineer and design them, I was also a GC but it took like 150days to complete mainly because I am 72 years old and each do I worked on it was super Hot. I would start at first light and about 3 hours and then I was done. What I refer to as a 3 shirt day because the humidity is so high hear.


What I had and had to take it down, stabbed my self in the foot and needed a tetanus shot. Lol

Starting out

got the walls and the rafters up


Diamond Kote siding Metal fascia

I got luckiy and didn't fall off the roof when I shingled it

I put the vinyl stone that was on the front of the house when we replace that siding

A 3 on the the Peak?????? I built the doors and they work fine after the winter.

Gotta have a Vent

I even put a window in it, hand built the shutters

A 3 on the the Peak??????

I even put a window in it, hand built the shutters
.

 

Wow, that's a nice looking shed - I don't think I've ever seen one with that much detail work put into it!

Id bet you were huge money ahead doing it yourself! For the precursor to this gargae project, I had to build a covered patio extension. That required me to move our shed as it was in conflict with the new patio roof. As I couldn't find a company to move it and it wasn't in great shape, we briefly looked at a direct replacement at the local hardware (as shipping and install is included, so I could just have them place the new one where I want it and chop up the old one in place). Our exact model of Tuffshed was discontinued, but the current version - same size and features was $5k before tax. Almost fell over when he said that...

We tore the original apart (down to the 4 walls so 2 people could carry each piece) and moved it ourselves replacing the bad stuff during rebuild in the new spot. Id bet we were under $500 all in including 100% brand new shingle roof.

 

Picking up some steam now!

Trusses are here! Ordered a bit too early, but Id heard horror stories of people being delayed months for them due to backlog at the factories. So I've got them all wrapped up for short term storage.

They're 200 lbs each, but its amazing how they're a wet noodle when not installed + braced. I figured we'd set them on furniture dollies and just roll them, but I expected something a lot more rigid where we'd jut be applying light force to keep them upright. Not only did we fight to keep them vertical (sometimes falling different directions at opposite ends even), but also roughly in a straight line as we rolled them. I'm used to seeing the upside down V shape trusses that are maybe 20 or 30 feet long, but a lot taller.

Going to be a bit of a pain getting these on top of the roof.



In other good news, we finally found a concrete company. Posted up in a few spots and got a ton of responses, but the vast majority were unlicensed / unverifiable (no website, no reviews, no BBB, etc) companies. Had our first quote show up today and we were super impressed, so we went ahead and booked a slot to pour concrete this coming Tuesday!

Hopefully get started framing not too long after while its still somewhat cool out.

 

you should be able to tote them into the Garage, Point down set one end on the wall and then set the other end on the wall Brace up the end wall truss.
Then tip the Truss upright and use a few 2x4s to set them upright.
Remember to plumb them.
They make some metal spacing bars that you can slip over the truss for proper spacing the are light and actually come folded.I use d to design them build them and set them up and was a sales rep for like 10 years.

 

When we get closer, I think I'm going to look into some kind of rentable machine to get them to the site and up there. We did carry 1 and frankly it was about at the limit of what my wife and I could carry due to the size- I definitely don't think we could do more than a few back to back like that. Thats why I'd used the furniture dollies for rolling them standing up from the street as far back as I could on existing concrete. Maybe I'll get lucky and the timing will work out so that I can get the rest of the driveway poured before I'm ready for trusses on the building. Would be nice to be able to at least roll them the rest of the way on the dollies into the building to save some back effort.

But I am seriously doubting if we can even lift 1 end up onto the walls by hand/ on ladders though. I think at a minimum I'll need to hire some labor help. My big fear is that one rolls onto its side while its only supported at the ends (ground on one end, us on the other up on a ladder) as it seems very likely it could snap in the middle. We'll see - have to play with it a bit when we get closer.


I did put in an order yesterday for those Simpson truss ties/spacers for both the top and bottom chords (the kind you can leave in / sheath over). I was forced to for the bottom chord, and figured it would make things easier if I got them for the top also. The truss designer originally had the bottom bracing specified as interior drywall, but this building permit is only for the building shell. I really dont want to put ceiling drywall up to finish this permit as I can't do electrical / lighting / hvac / insulation on the existing permit, so Id have to pull it back down for the next permit.

So the truss designer added these lateral braces as an alternate so I could leave the interior open for now.

 

I see this progress on your garage and about 2 weeks ago I talked with a guy from a company that gave me a good quote for building my garage. He is supposed to finalize it and get back to me. I may need to check back in with him.

 

Are they doing the whole thing top to bottom or are you GC'ing out to subs? I'll admit I would've loved to do this as a turn key job, but the post covid prices are too high for me.