You can run without the MAF, the computer will just use old data for air flow and your MPGs will probably suffer really bad.

When you put the new MAF in, I recommend unplugging the NEG battery cable and putting on the MAF and leaving it unplugged for about an hour.

This will put your PCM back into the relearn process (also clear codes) and it will use the new MAF to grab new data for your air flow instead of using a combination of both and waiting for the new data to finally get around.

 

Thanks for this, gotta remember this useful info in the future.

 

Ok thanks! The air filter is stock not oil. Is that an aftermarket thing?

 

Oiled air filters are the filters that you can clean instead of replacing, yes it's aftermarket.

 

Ok Thanks! The part came today and the car ran fine with the new MAF but.......after being out for the night on my way home I got stuck behind a car doing 50 mph and when I tried to pass them it was like I wasn't even pushing the gas pedal. I picked up speed on a hill and then it was fine. Also it drove fine on the back roads. The check engine light came back on after the issue on the highway and the code it's reading is PO137 the O2 sensor. I guess I need and O2 sensor now.

 

I assume that's the bank 1 oxygen sensor? If you check on the rear exhaust manifold it's right there. Very easy to replace, you'll just need the right socket for an O2 sensor.

This is an important one, unlike the bank 2 (which ONLY monitors the Cat) this one can affect your fueling.

 

Does this mean it can stall on me if I don't change it right away? I was hoping to make it a couple months before having to replace any more parts.

 

I'm not 100% if it will stall on you, but you could be using up a good amount of fuel while driving, which in the long run could wind up costing a good amount of money. Also if you run too rich, you risk clogging your Catalytic Converter

 

If it is the Bank 1 sensor, I would replace it ASAP. As Chibi said, if it's failing it will cause your car to run poorly. I would assume to potential for stalling would exist.

Now, the rear O2 sensor can fail (my wife has an Impala where that was the case). If the rear O2 sensor is bad, you'll throw the check engine light but could drive on it without a long term effect. But also keep in mind, as Chibi said, that rear O2 sensor is there to try and monitor the health of you CAT.

I know you have a different thread discussing a possible problem with the CAT. If you are throwing a REAR O2 sensor code and you're having these types of problems, I think this is leaning heavy towards a failed CAT. A car with a plugged CAT is unable to properly "breath". It's not allowing the exhaust to flow out at a proper rate. As a result, your exhaust will run hotter along with other potential problems as a result of too much exhaust pressure building up.

I commented with some info on your other thread regarding the CAT. Hope this helps.