6th Gen ('00-'05): top swap, started engine, scans give me concern, help?.....
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 319
i am using the stock L26 N/A bottom with the 9.4:1 compression.
and i agree, i hate when i think i've done it all right and it starts and idles fine and then things get wonky and i realize some things are wrong. i should have figured out the MAP thing from the very beginning. there was no way i was going to know that the harness wire was going to take a **** on me when i installed it all back together.
at least i got to drive it around the block
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 319
i live in minnesota, i am not worried right now about it staying cool
its been like -20 for weeks
and i do have a 180* tstat in along with water wetter to keep it cool.
but when summer comes, i will see how it goes and if i need to, i will look into a larger radiator and possibly getting an IC for the S/C
STILL SLOW
Monte Of The Month -- May 2010
Monte Of The Month -- May 2010
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 7,082
From: Nubraska
orings are new
i actually unplugged the MAP and the ECT and she purrs like a kitten now.
i also did a jump wire on the ECT to see what the dash gauge would do, nadda, nothing, zip, zero. it didnt budge. from what i see, that is a sure sign of a bad ground. or broken wire, so it looks like i get to dig into the harness tomorrow.
so i grabbed the connector from the 08 harness that i had and will be tracing back my 02 harness connector to the fault and then rewiring it.
i am also going to swap back to the 1bar 02 and 08 sensors. not sure why i even bothered with the l67 map in the first place since my pcm cant "see" the boost anyway. but in all the top swap threads, not one single time did anyone say anything about using the stock 1bar map, they only mention you "must switch the connector and run the l67 style map.
well, you DO NOT have to do that at all and you dont have to run anything extra. just pull out the L36/L26 map from the upper intake, there is a damn nipple on that thing, just plug it into to your vac/boost source and you are done. you may want to consider a check valve to keep the map from put under boost. not sure if you could source the vac from the tree on top behind the TB or not. but you certainly do not have to use the other style map or solder in the connector.
i will be unsoldering the other connector tomorrow and also fixing the ECT wire and HOPEFULLY, all should be well after that. i hope.
i actually unplugged the MAP and the ECT and she purrs like a kitten now.
i also did a jump wire on the ECT to see what the dash gauge would do, nadda, nothing, zip, zero. it didnt budge. from what i see, that is a sure sign of a bad ground. or broken wire, so it looks like i get to dig into the harness tomorrow.
so i grabbed the connector from the 08 harness that i had and will be tracing back my 02 harness connector to the fault and then rewiring it.
i am also going to swap back to the 1bar 02 and 08 sensors. not sure why i even bothered with the l67 map in the first place since my pcm cant "see" the boost anyway. but in all the top swap threads, not one single time did anyone say anything about using the stock 1bar map, they only mention you "must switch the connector and run the l67 style map.
well, you DO NOT have to do that at all and you dont have to run anything extra. just pull out the L36/L26 map from the upper intake, there is a damn nipple on that thing, just plug it into to your vac/boost source and you are done. you may want to consider a check valve to keep the map from put under boost. not sure if you could source the vac from the tree on top behind the TB or not. but you certainly do not have to use the other style map or solder in the connector.
i will be unsoldering the other connector tomorrow and also fixing the ECT wire and HOPEFULLY, all should be well after that. i hope.
Also. I had headers, north star throttle body and a few other little things done to my car and still got knock with the 3.8 pulley :/
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 319
well, i get it all fixed up.
switched back to n/a map and n/a connector, and then found a shotty ECT connector repair job,
so i spliced in another connector and actually soldered the wires instead of what the previous owner had done.
while in the process of pulling apart the loom on the harness, i notice that the injector #5 had a splice in its harness. so i dug a little deeper and found that 1 and 3 also had a splice in them.
my conclusion is that the previous owner may have been a mod'er as well, which could explain what the trans was bad when i bought it and maybe even why the engine took a crap on me in less than a year of owning it. it also has residue along the top of the windshield where it seems like there may have been a vinyl banner of sorts across it.
i believe the previous owner may have traded the car in to the dealer with a bad or dying trans but may have pulled the engine to de mod or may have just put in a junk yard engine just to sell it.
i cant say one way or another, but it certainly makes sense.
switched back to n/a map and n/a connector, and then found a shotty ECT connector repair job,
so i spliced in another connector and actually soldered the wires instead of what the previous owner had done.
while in the process of pulling apart the loom on the harness, i notice that the injector #5 had a splice in its harness. so i dug a little deeper and found that 1 and 3 also had a splice in them.
my conclusion is that the previous owner may have been a mod'er as well, which could explain what the trans was bad when i bought it and maybe even why the engine took a crap on me in less than a year of owning it. it also has residue along the top of the windshield where it seems like there may have been a vinyl banner of sorts across it.
i believe the previous owner may have traded the car in to the dealer with a bad or dying trans but may have pulled the engine to de mod or may have just put in a junk yard engine just to sell it.
i cant say one way or another, but it certainly makes sense.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 319
Once you get it under some boost the 2 bar map will be necessary for tuning. I mentioned, I think in one of your threads that this will cause an issue with the PCM/tuning of these cars, either way it sucks haha.
Also. I had headers, north star throttle body and a few other little things done to my car and still got knock with the 3.8 pulley :/
Also. I had headers, north star throttle body and a few other little things done to my car and still got knock with the 3.8 pulley :/
i will have to respectfully disagree with the 2 bar MAP being necessary. there are MANY MANY monte's and grand prixs and other gm cars that do not run a 2 bar map and are boosted.
the tuning is done via maf freq, throttle posistion, IFR tables, and a few others.
is the 2 bar map and tables nice to have, sure, but certainly is not a requirement. there are many ways to skin a cow.
i certainly do believe that you may still get knock with the 3.8 pulley, however, even stock GTP's get knock in stock form.
not a major concern for me, and i do believe that i will be able to tune it with minimal knock and not blow it up.
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