Does anyone know what could cause the "service traction control" message to come on? This is on an '06 3.9. "Reduced engine power" message also came on, although I'm guessing that's a result of the trac control malfunctioning in sub-freezing weather. I was able to re-set it once by disconnecting the battery, and everything worked fine for a week or so, until I used the remote start. Now it won't re-set. Any ideas?

TG

 

Disconecting the battery wont do anything, it has obdII system and that stores evrything that has ever happened to the car... You need to get a Tech II and have the system cleared to get the code out of it. The most common reason why the service traction system light comes on is because of the ABS Sensor which is build into the hub assembly (wheel bearing). I replaced mine not too long ago on my 01 SS and the bearings run about $189-$240 each and they have the sensor and studs built into them. The techII will tell you exactly what is causeing the problem, to check and see if the wheel bearing is bad just jack up the car and see if the wheel will move back and forth, it should be tight and have no play.

 

Ha dthe same problem on my 03 at 4500 miles the light came on a few times and would always go off when I turned the key off and back on but then it came on and stayed on. I took it back to the dealer as it was still under warranty and golfstud is correct it was the hub assembly they replaced it under warranty and no more problems.

Gr1dLoC|<

 

yah they must have a defect in these because we sell A LOTTTT!!! of hubs for the gm cars..they're all the same they come with the sensor on it..and you can't buy the sensor by itself

 

My Service traction system light was coming on and then my abs, and traction off light so I took it to a friend that does some auto work for me. He replace the wheel hub on the drivers side, all of the brakes, three rotors, and caliper on the passenger side.After the work was complete it seemed to driveok home. The next morning when I got in it and reversedit felt as ifI had a flat tire. Ihad no flat tire. When I back up it feels like it is binding.Also the lights started coming on again! A year ago I had to have my transmission overhauled too(by a transmission repair shop). I had it looked at and they said it was the ringin pinonion carrier and to take it back to the transmission place in which I did. They found nothing with the transmission but said that the wheel sensors were riding on the front rotors....which I find very hard to believe because I watched it the brake job being done and saw them click the sensors back in. The transmission place said they did not feel the binding I was talking about. I am at my whits end with this 2001 Monte Carlo SS. Today I took the tranction control OFF and it did not do all those things with the lights. Do you now what the problem could be?? Now the passenger side wheel hub was not replaced do you think that could be the problem? THAT THEY REPLACED THE WRONG ONE IN THE FIRST PLACE?

 

Is the car still under warranty?

You can take it to Autozone and they will scan it for free and let you know what the problem might be.

 

No the car is not still under warranty that ran out right before I had to have the transmission overhauled.
I will take it too Autozone and see what they bring up. I recently took it to the Chevy dealership because the security light kept coming on and then one morning when I went out to start up the car it would not start. They diagnosised it as being the security chip inside of the ignition switch and told me that I would have to have it replaced. Oh, I forgot to mention I did get it started that morning after trying around 15 times so I drove it into the dealership. I never did replace the switch and it has not acted up since then and has not brought up the security light at all. I was thinking of replacing the front brakes with ceramics, putting a new caliper on the drivers side and putting a new wheel hub on the passenger side.

 

OK, here's the scoop on my problem: I was getting 2 messages- "service traction control", and "engine power reduced"( or something to that effect). I was told that I didn't have a warranty, since I bought the car used. I used a scanner, but it only reads engine codes, not drivetrain. I found out 2 weeks ago, that I DID have a warranty, since it automatically transfers when the car is sold ( Or, to put it another way, the warranty is issued to the car, not the owner.) To make a long story short: the '06 is "drive-by-wire". Replacing the accellerater pedal assembly solved the problem. After driving at about 60% power output for a couple months, it feels great to have the engine back at 100%! As an aside, the engine seemed a bit ragged when I got it back: slightly rough idle, a slight bog when I hit the gas, and just didn't sound quite right. I re-booted the computer ( disconnected the negative battery cable for a half hour or so ), and it smoothed out.This is what it sounds like at 100%:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nt4Vc7vYm_g