phoenix, i was looking into the tb spacer to cool the air entering the sc...the car is going to be used as a daily driver as well as taking her to norwalk to see what she can and will do, while using premium gas...i will be going through the trans and beefing up the internals to accomodate for the increase in HP...i already put a shift kit in, but i know this just firms up the shift instead of the internals...turbo said the same thing that you did about tuning the NIC cam...as far as tuning with what i will be putting into the engine, i will be taking the car to have it tuned instead of mail order...mail order tuning scares me, because i don't know what will be putting into the PCM while if having it tuned that way i can inform the person doing the tune what is in the engine...seems like i still have quite a bit of research to do to reach my goals...i'm at the point now, where i may not be able to reach my 300-350whp...

turbo, thanx again...i know how forced induction works, i just don't seem to know what CORRECT and more EFFICIENT ways to increase boost while keeping the incoming air cool enough to prevent KR...you and phoenix have given me a lot to think about and i appreciate you guys assistance BIGTIME!!! i'm heading in the right direction, but thanx to you guys, i may be heading into a better direction..i'm very good with sbc, but this will be my first forced induction engine i have built

 

best thing to keep KR down is flow mods.

-Cold air intake that actually sees cool air
-a ported gen III or gen V blower
-Cam
-headers or plog
-tuning with wide band so that you dial in a safe air fuel ratio, a good amount of timing, and only then should you drop pulleys for more boost.


with forced induction the boost is what is raising the temp of the air. also the spacer does little to reduce the transmission of heat from the blower case to the TB. also the amount of time the air is in contact and the amount of air that contacts the tb is very minimal. this all adds up to extremely minimal change in intake temps at the cost of money that could be used for more effective mods. TB spacers work on carb'd engines not due to their reduction in temp, but by increasing plenum volume and forcing the incoming air to speed up. this results in more tq. on forced induction plenum volume is not as much a factor and especially not until after the blower. so a tb spacer is pointless here.

 

the currrent condition of my current 3.8 is not to bad...it does have 136k miles on it...i think i know what direction you are going to say LOL..do a top swap...i really don't think i want to go that direction because the kit is pretty costly compared to the $500 engine assembly w/sc i am getting...i will be going through the l67 completely, making sure things are good to go..

 

totally agree...i may start with plogs at first to see what power i will have...IF i'm going to see close to 300whp, then headers will strongly be considered...i am thinking about the whizaired CAI...as far as tuning, i will need to find someone around me who does custom tuning...as far as cams, i'm still up in the air on that...i was first thinking about rockers, but a cam seems to be the best way to go

 

i disagree again i feel if your trying to see 300-350whp you need headers so why waste monte on a plog and down pipe and then have to buy headers anyway? just save for headers and be done with it lol

im not trying to sound like an a$$ im just giving my opinions on what i would be doing to hit your goal.... everyone has a different way and im not saying theirs is wrong but this is how i would be doing it.

 

Could always use the l67 to topswap it . Then either build up the l67 shortblock or sell it. Fonna need to do head gaskits anyway

 

my thought on this is dont buy this engine and try and find a l32 instead of the l67..... the l32 has the genV SC that you will need along with the l32 LIM and better flowing l32 heads.... this is what i would be looking for not the l67.....

 

trying to save $$, but actually going to spend more if i do the way i just stated...i would be spending more $$ if i go to plogs and turn around and get headers...a big duhhhh on my part...i don't think you are being an a$$, you are right...like i said my mind is going in so many directions...i'm just having a moment LOL

 

i haven't thought about the l32 swap with the gen V...i will have to see what the differences in wiring harness pcm etc on that one...i do know that the l32 runs an electric TB?

 

zzp makes an adapter to be able to use a l67 tb on a genV SC im not sure on wiring but i cant see it being much different, its in a sense the same engine just improved with better more flowing efficient heads, SC, and LIM

people "topswap" the l32 parts onto there l67 all the time for this reason.