i do like the way the exhaust sounds with the NIC cam...sounds pretty lopey

 

thats the thing though, cam or rockers i suggest using a double roller, upgrading springs and retainers, upgrading lifters so you cant do rockers for $299 either.

keep in mind if you get the double roller you should have it machined to fit flush to the block and if this is done you wont need a machined pump cover or have to double the gasket for clearance (the machined pump cover and or doubling the gasket if a bandaid on fixing the machining issue that should be taken care of) also only use a rollmaster IMO.

to be totally honest it would be so much easier to hit the 300whp goal by buying a used intercooled turbo kit.

 

the NIC cam sounds awesome and the reason why is all the overlap hence allowing to run a smaller pulley without needing a IC. downside to the NIC cam is its a pain to tune.

 

it does sound awesome...i really appreciate your help turbo and phoenix...this build is going to drive me crazy LOL...thing is, i've build many small block chevys on a cheaper budget...like i said i will start with the "need too" mods to make the swap possible...start with the cam and its mods, rollmaster double roller, pcm tune, and headers...do the swap and then go from there with a full ic setup, CAI, rad etc...the engine i am getting is used, out of a 97 buick riviera for $500...

 

no problem man i like helping and giving advice to other members

i understand it takes time and a lot of money for sure. you need to decide if you want a NIC cam and not IC or what first then round up your other parts that are needed.

as i said in my previous post i wouldnt waste money on a oversized rad, turbo monte is on a stock rad and has no issues so i think you would be fine with your build. last thing i got to mention again (already mentioned once) you will need a built trans as well!!

 

i am going to do some research on what will give me the best gains for the $$...if i can fun the NIC without an IC and make the same gains as if i had an IC, the NIC cam will be the way to go....that will save me $$ right there...i totally understand what you are saying about the rad, especially if i'm not going to run with an IC...my thinking is, if the more i can keep the engine cool (keeping KR down to nothing) with the oversize rad, the more boost i should be able to run...please correct me if i am wrong...i am totally new to forced induction...

 

The NIC cam can be dangerous to tune if you do not have a wide band O2 as the stock narrow band is not accurate nor fast enough to measure fueling at idle and low throttle inputs. to be honest the level of mods you are planing, you really need someone who knows how to tune these cars to make the most of you setup and to make sure it runs safely. mail order tunes will be like putting a band-aid on a bullet wound.

The XP and NIC aren't the only cams to consider. the VS cam is a very good choice. the power difference is not much different then the xp. the VS is good with lighter springs which is better for the dampener and chain set.

You really don't need an upgraded timing set to run rockers. but this depends on what springs you choose. stock to 105 a fresh stock chain will be fine. 105 with xp a aftermarket single chain will be ok. 130+ a double chain is needed. its the pressure from the springs that can cause the chain to wear. the ramp rate of the cam will beat up the dampener more though... but if one is doing a cam a new chain and tensioner should be a no brainer!

you mentioned about a TB spacer... what is the reason you are looking into them? are you planing to run NO2 or meth injection? if not they are a waist of money on these cars. if you are hoping to use it to block coolant from the TB to lower intake temps, then there is a better way to do this. block the ports in the lower intake manifold. if you are installing an IC then you will need a modified lower intake to take full advantage from the IC anyway so most likely the coolant ports will be blocked already.

Also like said at this power level your trans will be in the danger zone. so if you want a safe setup that will last, you need to address the trans and build it up too.

the oversized radiator wont really lower your KR. if you live in a hot climate and have issues keeping the engine cool/ at operating temp then you should switch, otherwise the stock radiator is fine. you will want the largest radiator you can get for the IC setup. the IC's run a separate radiator and the larger the surface area the better. also a larger supply of ic fluid and a good pump will also help. I actually have been contemplating getting a core and building a cold box for the fluid...

another thing to consider is E85 if it is sold in your area. its is basically like running race gas but at a much better price. you will need a different pump, lines, and injectors to run e85.

also like said the power level you are talking about is much easier to achieve with a turbo setup. considering you would need to modify the fire wall for headers you might as well just build a turbo down pipe for it. turbos are much easier on the trans as well...

 

right concept but wrong way of looking at it...... you want the air cold going into the cylinders, cooling the cylinders is important so you dont over heat but the air is the important factor. the factory rad with a lower t-stat and tuned for the t-stat will do the trick there.

now onto getting cold air, the colder the air the more dense it is the longer it takes to ignite which keeps from predetination (knock) this is dont by a IC sitting under the SC and there is seperate coolant that flows through this IC and then through a heat exchanger mounter at the front of the car and a pump to pump this coolant.

the SC builds the boost but makes the boost/air very hot and then pushes the boost/hot air through the cold coolant in the IC and cools the boost/air and then goes to the cylinder.

on the IC setup, the more hose you have wrapped everywhere the better and the bigger front mount heat exchanger the better because the more fluid you have the longer it takes to get hot (heat soak) and also the more time it has to circulate to cool off before getting sent back to cool the hot air again....

hope this makes sense to you lol

 

So whats the condition of your current 3.8?

 

i agree with all of this but what you said about the timing set, i feel any modded engine that has been tore apart should get the best of the best timing set (double roller) i would rather spend a little more on the double roller and have more security that it wont stretch and or break unlike the single roller... yes you are correct the double roller is overkill for up to 105# springs but i would rather have an overkill part that has a better chance of not failing then risking breaking a timing set and bending valves, breaking pistons, maybe rods, and messing up the cylinder bore.... this is just an opinion here you are correct on your statement but thats not how i would build it is all.

as far as the TB spacer i didnt see he mentioned that but i also agree unless you are planning on nitrous or meth its a waste and FYI meth on a SC setup i heard was bad because the meth wears the coating off the SC rotors.

finally i seen you mentioned about not liking to delete the counter balance shaft, im not sure why you dont like deleting it but i know many people with them deleted and no one has had any issues, mine is deleted as well. you may get a little vibration at idle (like solid poly mounts do) but thats about it...