Seems like this problem is becoming too fold with our cars getting older.

Even a web search of the problem I find a lot of discussions on failed passlock and related problems.

From MCF. (thank you Chibiblacksheep)
Problem: Security light is on while driving or the car will not start
Likely cause: Something in the passlock system isn’t functioning properly
Solution: Replace the ignition cylinder.
Prevention: nothing

So far I tried:
the 10 min on, off, 10 min on, off, 10 min off to reset passlock.
I did this twice one friday as the car would not start. And this was after I just got home from the dealer having looked at the car.

I read on here someone mentioned a mechanic told them to lock the driver door, shut it, and unlock from outside the car. This actually got the car to start again.
And with the power locks disabled I had to use the door key to open the door.

Another member said they cleaned the BCM fuse and it cured their problem. OKAY... I found three fuses connected with the BCM in the driver side fuse panel and cleaned them all.
NO GOOD! It did not cure the car. Or maybe if I try to reset passlock now it may?

The owner's manual says passlock has a fuse to power it.
Does anyone know what fuse to look for?
Cause it is not identified in the owner's manual discription of all four fuse panels.

If it is the car needs a ignition cylnder I guess (or hope ) it's cheaper then the over $400 the dealer wants to replace the passlock system. Which does not include installation of programming of the new system.

 

Have you considered that it may be the ignition switch? My 2001 started off with the no start/security light problems and then got worse. Multiple dash lights wigging out etc. You may want to look at one of my previous posts that said 'bcm/starting problems' in the title. The ignition cylinder and passlock sensor can be purchased together or separately but they both fit into the ignition switch itself.

I replaced just the ignition switch and the car has been 100% reliable since. Check that thread out for other members input and see if anything proves helpful.

You could take a look at rockauto.com if you want to see what the parts look like.

Good luck with it!

 

Probably ignition switch/lock cylinder. I just had to put a lock cylinder in my 6th gen. Although mine was locked up and wouldn't turn nut not from passlock (disabled on my car).

 

So far passlock has disabled the power door locks on the '03 Pace car.

I did price a new ignition switch through a couple GM suppliers and NAPA Auto Parts.

GM is higher of course with NAPA being at $100.16.
I do want a reliable parts if I go to the trouble of replacing the switch.

Has anyone replaced the ignition switch themselves @ home? If so any issues that I should look for?

Thanks.

 

I replaced the ignition switch myself. It wasn't terribly hard, you just want to be careful when removing/unsnapping the dash. Gentle pressure starting at the drivers side and working my way over left the 8 or 9 clips intact. My haynes manual had decent enough instructions to get the job done. I purchased a Dorman brand ignition switch from RockAuto.com for about $40 total with shipping.
I know its frequently recommended to go with GM parts but I tried Dorman again since their drivers side power window switch fixed a problem I was having when a more expensive switch failed shortly after replacement.

 

I replaced the cylinder in my personal car, took 15 mins. The actual switch is a little more work since you have to mess with the shift interlock.

 

Hey RJ, here is a link you might be interested in for replacing the ignition switch.

7th gen ignition switch replacement/access - Chevy Impala Forums

 

I found a website a guy named Dr. Zach that says that it's the 3 tin plated pins that are soldered onto the pass lock II circuit board.
GM made a crappy design where the black plastic plug that goes into the side of the ignition switch chamber and when you push the key lock and key cylinder back into the plastic chamber the female black plastic plug and the 3 tin plated pins on the pass lock II circuit board are suppose to engage and remain seated..... that is ? suppose to.
After time from vibration, corrosion those pins lose contact and therefore electric circult is compromised.
Dr. Zach recommends that you take the female plugs out from the black crappy plug and carefully chip away the plastic from the passlock II module so you can solder the female plugs onto the 3 tin plated pins.
I was in a hurry and found a old computer 3 pin pig tail plug and ran it all the way to my old passlock II wires and jerry rigged up 3 pins and plastic holder to use as a temporary slice. then used electric tape to hold it there temporary.
So far it works, no battery light and security light flashing, and the back up lights are working.
Some people are told to replace there BCM needlessly , that is ? unless your lights on your car are going crazy, or door locks.

 

I got a $ 15 junker sacrificial ignition switch and cylinder from the junk yard in hope that would solve my problems, but, install it and same problem.
Found out that it's the 3 tin plated pins coming out from the Passlock II module on these cars.
Yes, a new ignition switch and cylinder will work for a few years but that still does not solve the inherent flaw in the GM or who ever designed these plugs for the Passlock II modules that go into the side of the ignition switch chambers.
If I get another Monte I would have a 3 car Monte.