I was changing out my LIM due to a leak and didn't tighten the torque wrench nut. When I was done putting my LIM on the torque wrench was around 152 inch-lb, spec says 132 in-lb.

Read elsewhere that overtorquing the LIM can pull up your head gaskets, enegine hasn't been run, I just quit for the day sick from my mistake. So should I order a new Aluminium LIM gasket and LIM bolts, or reduce my torque to 132, or am I more boned?

I am assuming that the Al LIM gasket is now done since the Al is compressed and won't rebound. I don't really want to go deeper into the engine and fix a head gasket issue, that seems more scary playing with actual engine components.

Sadly everything was going so smoothly too until that mistake, should have called it a day earlier. Advice appreciated.

 

the aluminum lim gaskets are reusable. also them little lim bolts will never pull up the head as thats impossible. just loosen arr the lim bolts and then retighten them to correct torque spec in the correct sequence and you should be fine

 

Thanks for the quick reply., i'll undo it all then add new threadlocker and go again. Worst case I know how to get to the LIM, if it leaks.

any other opinions?

 

x2 on turbo monte's reply, I don't think you would do any damage with an additional 20 in-lb. Just not that severe of an over torque.

 

any tips on how to get the EGR stovepipe out, it doesn't want to budge, after this i can install my new UIM, trying some PB blaster but didn't seem to help. i know for some cars there is a nut but i never read about one for ours.

 

is this a 6th gen with a 3.8? are you putting in a metal stovepipe?

 

Correct, a 6th gen. I have a new stovepipe with a reduced diameter and intake manifold. However the old stovepipe isn't budging, vicegrips aren't twisting it, just starting to dig into the stovepipe.

A few blasts of PB blaster isn't helping too much, i might keep trying the PB and let it soak overnight. videos online tend to gloss over how to remove the OEM stovepipe

 

I left the old one in there and just cleaned it as it had no damage. Try the penetrant oil that seafoam makes. The stuff is awsome.....and 12 bucks a can.

 

I eventually got it out. I let the PB plaster soak in overnight, also worked on it during the day. Alum block expands more than the steel pipe. Basically, I was able to turn it slightly, add more PB blaster, move it more, add more PB, then had a friend try to pull up while on the other side I had a flathead that i pushed on the vice grips to move it up from the opposite side.

Just bite the bullet and really crank down on the pipe, even if it deforms a bit. Be sure to mark the height on something like and index card or piece of plastic

nneyVWm.jpg

Just clean it out well, make sure no metal flakes are in there. I washed it out with PB blaster out the EGF tube side and soaked up the PB blaster with a paper towel.

S3IQnUc.jpg



Put the new tube it and tap it in with a rubber hammer, or metal hammer on top of a block of wood. The new part really was rough to go in even with some PB lube, note the rings on the wood. Then compare the new EGF stovepipe height to what you marked earlier.

uyvPex9.jpg



Also of note to others, PUT ON THE PLASTIC SPLASHGUARD, my engine was running warmer than usual even with a 180 degree thermostat, the splash-guard really does redirect a lot of air into the radiator. Read this from somebody else's post and their issues. I ran w/o it for a few days as i flushed the system again after running it a bit (it's a good idea i got much more sludge and chunks of dried dexcool out). Now with the splashguard in it runs 20F cooler.