I'm trying to get input before I take my car to the shop.

Over the summer I had an intermittent issue of the A/C not working. It seemed to clear itself up.
However, now that it's flippin freezing in northeast Indiana, the heat only works after I've been driving for approximately 10 minutes. When I stop, it blows cold air and starts to overheat.
Any ideas on this issue??

Also, when I start my car and go to put it in reverse or drive and it's cold outside, the car takes a minute or two to go into gear. This happened last year but wasn't nearly as annoying and problematic as now. Again, ideas?

Thanks!
Rachel

 

You're not getting heat because of a coolant leak somewhere, air in the lines, or possibly a failing heater core IMO.

You need to change the transmission fluid and filter, then hope for the best.

 

As for the no heat/ over heating issue, it could be as simple as low coolant but it may also be that you need a new water pump, but even that isn't a big deal. They're cheap and easy to change.

And for the trans problem, I would suggest a filter and fluid change, using Casrtol's "high mileage" fluid. DO NOT do a trans flush. Only a filter and fluid change.

 

Well, $600 later I have yet to address the transmission, but the radiator, water pump, and hoses are all new.

It figures that my loan is almost paid off and things need replaced. Murphy's Law.

 

Hi Rachel, what motor do you have! 3100, 3400, 3800 or 5.3? How many miles does it have. There are several things that could cause you heat problem, some depend on what motor you have. You said you have new water pump, radiator, and hoses! Then I have to assume you replaced your thermostat as well? Are you sure that all the are was bled out of the system? When you turn the care of after driving for a while, do you hear what sounds like bubbling from the engine compartment!
Your description sounds like a low coolant level. When moving you have heat but a idle it blows cold. The 3800 has 2 coolant Elbows that are maid of plastic that fails. The feel coolant from the motor to the heater core. If they crack, the system will blow out coolant, from a drip to full cool a t loss depending on the severity of the cracks. Then as the engine cools and the coolant contracts, air is sucked into the system.
In order to help you better though we need to know which motor is purring under your hood!

 

The radiator is what the majority of the heat issue was. My radiator was cracked/leaking. They suggested I could use a thermostat but it wasn't critical. So for now, the heat is working again. Thank goodness since we just got a foot of snow dumped on us!

But thanks for the input