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Need Help Got Crank No Spark

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Old 08-18-2011, 03:29 PM
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Default Need Help Got Crank No Spark

Ok first let me say, I spent over 7 hour reading thru every post on this website in pursut of learning how to fix my Monte Carlo 2000 LS 3.4. I have read and learned through various post to use a multimeter to trace power thru the ignition system. Here is my problem. First it may help to explain how this problem occured. I put my car in park, but it only went have way in between Park and Rev and I pull my car out with no trouble. Now I can pull the key ourt of the cylinder in ACC mode. I have read no where in this or other sites that this would effect spark at coils, if it does, please let me know.

I get crank good crank no spark at coils, Ive tested power and ground to Igniton Control Module. its 11.6 both sides. I have check the Crank shaft sensor wires(7X) on the right side of the ICM, they show .6-.8

I check and replaced Igniton relay, no bad fuses. The only code I am getting is for the Air Pump code 1410.
I have tested my original ICM and Coils at Autozone, they came up good (10 test) I have also bought new ICM and Coils replaced them.. still no spark.

I havent tested the 24X Crank shaft senor that is inside and behind the harmonic balancer. I have read that this sensor has nothing to do with controlling power or spark to ignition control module, only the 7X one attached to the rigth side of the Ignition Control module. Since I have power/ground and proper voltage in 7X crankshaft sensor, what else can cause no spark condition.

Battery shows 12 Volts, is only 5 months old but will wear to dead in 60 secs of cranking. Is 11.6 Volts going to Ignition Control Module sufficient for activating the module?

Can someone please help me with this? Im single parent with young child, and little money. I need to get back on the road very bad.
 
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Old 08-18-2011, 03:32 PM
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do the coils matter which position they are in?
 
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Old 08-18-2011, 03:42 PM
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Each of the 3 coils on the ICM are the same. There positon does not matter BUT the order the wires connect IS important.

Sounds like you're not getting fuel OR spark. If you can borrow a fuel pressure guage, I'd check the fuel pressure. If you're not getting pressure, sounds like a pump. Best way to check spark is get a cheak inline spark plug wire test light from Harbor Freight.
 
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Old 08-18-2011, 04:16 PM
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Thank you for your response, I have fuel at the rail, pressure relief valve showing good pressure, you can hear the fuel pump. I check spark at the coils no spark thru any of them. Question, if it was a neutral wouldnt it keep the engine from turning over at all?

Also, where is the PCM located at? I cant seem to fine a post anywhere showing it, and I cannot located the part online on Autozone or advance auto parts website, am I missing something?
 
  #5  
Old 08-18-2011, 05:15 PM
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PCM is in your air box.
 
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Old 08-18-2011, 05:51 PM
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I have a Single Flashing Security Light 1 flash for 4 secs then goes to Battery then back to single security flash. I am aware and can address the 4 flash Security when that problem has occured in the past, it wont crank at all.. I got crank and No RUN.
 
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Old 08-18-2011, 05:54 PM
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Chibi thank you for your response, I appreciate it. I am assuming they need programming or no? I would like to grab one from the junkyard if possible, please let me know on any restrictions on swap out for PCM.

Can anyone confirm wether only the Crank shaft Sensor that ISNT behind the pulley control Spark at Ignition module? or Does the Crank Shaft Sensor that is behind the Pulley the one that is controlling spark
 
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Old 08-19-2011, 08:21 AM
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You can't swap the PCM from another one because you need to have your VIN# programmed to it.
 
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Old 08-19-2011, 09:29 AM
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1 - You CAN hear a fuel pump engage and STILL have a bad fuel pump (just went through this). You can ALSO get a small burst of pressure at the rail when you hit the test valve. But this is why you want a fuel pressure tester, to see what pressure is coming out. In my recent adventure with a bad fuel pump on a '00 Grand Am, that's what we had happen (heard the pump, small pressure at the line, change the fuel filter, still a bad pump, the pressure tester told use were were BARELY getting ANY pressure and it took a LOT of cycling the fuel pump to get any pressure). New pump no more problem.
2. - Not sure, but you may want to try a PCM security re-learn. See step #10 in the below link:
ZZ Performance
To my knowledge, a PCM security relearn means the car won't crank and I believe it stops the injectors from engaging.
AND as Chibi said, there is MORE to swapping a PCM then just trading it out.
3. - What did you do to prove you had spark? You mentioned checking at the coils.... I have a guess what you did, but I don't want to rely on my guess.
 
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Old 08-19-2011, 09:58 PM
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I check Spark by screwdriver and holding onto it to feel shock none on any coil terminal. I can smell the gas bigtime, I have been doing a lot of research on my issues, and I believe that this maybe a passlock 3 issue Does anyone know if you crank on the engine, you are past the Passlock 3 ability to stop spark? does the PCM need a signal from the Theft deterrent module to allow spark? I have read that without this signal, the fuel injectors wont fire, but I've read nothing to suggest that the 2000 GM 3.4 needs a signal from the PCM to create spark or start engine, only after 400 RPM does the PCM take over.. Is this correct, or am I missing something.

What I really need to determine is on my engine what controls the Ignition system to create spark. I have a new battery putting 12.6 at power and ground to ICM and I have a AC VOLT of .6-.8 on the Crank shaft Sensor wires when cranking engine. Still no spark, what else is controlling the system to generate spark. Thank you in advance for any help or time.
 
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