Hello, two parts to keep it simple. The back story and the photos. If you're in a hurry check out the photos and let me know what you think. Thanks in advance!!

Story:
My dads 99 Monte Carlo had some really rusted out rear brake lines. Both rusted threw so I ran 2 new lines and rear hoses replaced the vacuum booster and master cylinder also. The front lines didn't have much rust action, so they stayed.

A month or so goes by and now the fluid ran dry, pedal goes to the floor. No leaks at any of my new connections or any connections, so no signs of a major leak. I bled the breaks again and got out a lot of air (3 of 4 wheels) doing it solo in 18 deg. weather is not good for progress. The pedal should have had some improvement with the 3 wheels being bled but no change at all.

I am 90% sure the vacuum booster is okay as the pedal is soft and not firm, I also disconnected the vacuum hose, started the car and the pedal was firm. I hear no hissing, only when I depress the pedal I hear the diaphragm 'whooshh' inside the car on a full depress.

I move on to a hunch that I can make more progress at. Taking off the M.C. and looking at the rear of the piston and plunger of the vacuum booster. I had seen the only noticeable fluid dribble right under the M.C./V.B. connection hole. So I took it off and see an interesting mix mash of stuff going on. Take a look.

Photos: (you can click the photo for it to zoom in more)

Link below:
Imageshack - 20120118135535.jpg

In this photo the booster shows some fluid in the rim and also had been dribbling fluid down the face.

Link below:
Imageshack - 20120118135414.jpg

In this photo the back of the M.C. looks like a mess (I think). There looks to be fluid on the back of the piston and where the c-clamp is. The c-clamp looks bent? In my mind shouldn't it be flat like a normal c-clamp?? Also looks like metal shavings of some sort??? I see no fresh 'milling' on any metal, could it have been from the c-clamp going? If that c-clamp is kaput would that allow fluid to leak?

Not expecting anyone to know all of the questions I asked, only thing I truly care about is if it is replacement/warranty time? Could I be wrong about the V.B.?
Thanks everyone!!

 

If fluid is leaking out the back more than Likly it's junk,

 

Okay, I'm going to take it out and take it in. I can't wait much longer so based on the c-clamp I deem it defective. I'll take it out with in the hour unless I hear otherwise from anyone on here. Thanks for your quick reply Buds!

 

its definately bad when you do replace it make sure u bench bleed the new one to avoid traped air and a spongy pedal

 

Yea the master looks bad.Make sure there isn't a ton of fluid in the booster if there is it may cuz a problem with the booster.

 

Yes that c-clamp didn't look right -at all- I took it back to Autozone for a warranty swap (2/3mo. old) with no problems. This one had a different bleeding procedure than the last and the plunger looks more robust. I had to bleed the MC on the car last time due to no vice. It was nice had 4 plugs, 2 open 2 sealed and bled past the abs module. This one I had a vice and had to do it by hand due to the bleeding procedure. I'm a little worried that the abs motor/assembly may have gotten a poop ton of air into it and w/o bleeding past the abs this time IDK a long bleeding procedure ahead? I'll know more tomorrow when I have help bleeding the brakes.

I'm not sure as to how much actual fluid got into the booster but I was able to check the vac. hose and it was bone dry inside the tube.

Run down:
New MC has been installed. Pedal has regained firmness with car off but still sinks right down when the car is turned on. With old setup i had (maybe) 1/4" of braking at the very end, now it feels effortless to touch the floor. We'll see what bleeding does tomorrow. With the gears I marked the tooth position to put them back somewhat the way it came out w/o the tension of course. Does the gear placement matter or will it find it's home again?

New Question:
On the ABS module it has what looks to be like 2 bleeder screws facing the front of the car? Could I bleed the abs module from that before I bleed the full system? I know about needing a tech-2 and/or engaging the abs unit to cycle the hydraulics, just asking about the 2 nipples thank ya!!

 

A vacuum Brake bleeder may be a good option. I think autozone rents them.