Long crank time sometimes
#1
Long crank time sometimes
I have a 1997 monte carlo z34 and every once in a while it takes a few long cranks to start it up, but once it fires, it starts and runs fine. The car is like brand new with only 34000 miles. Whats the deal??
#2
RE: Long crank time sometimes
my 97 did that sometime, i cleaned the MAF, air temp sensor, throttle body ect..and that fixed my problem. check ur air filter and plugs and just normal tune up stuff. this was what fixed MY problem and it might work for you, try it and let us know.
#3
RE: Long crank time sometimes
I will try a tune up. It is probably still on its original set of plugs and wires. Does the upper intake manifold need to come off to get to the back three plugs or is there an easier way to get to them? Thanks
#4
RE: Long crank time sometimes
ORIGINAL: mrl390
I will try a tune up. It is probably still on its original set of plugs and wires. Does the upper intake manifold need to come off to get to the back three plugs or is there an easier way to get to them? Thanks
I will try a tune up. It is probably still on its original set of plugs and wires. Does the upper intake manifold need to come off to get to the back three plugs or is there an easier way to get to them? Thanks
is your check engine light on? with it being intermittent like that im thinking more of a faulty sensor or it might even be your fuel pump not pumping enough or not coming on exactly when its supposed or the flow is restricted. before spending money do the cleaning part and see if that does it. hold the air filter towards the light and if you can see through its still good. do those free things first and let us know.
#5
RE: Long crank time sometimes
The check engine light did come on but it had something to do with the little pump that pulls gasoline fumes out of the gas tank and runs it through that charcoal filter. The guy that hooked his scan tool up to my car said that it shouldnt make the car run any different so we turned it off for now. That was the only code. Now that I think of it though wouldnt bad plugs make it run bad all the time instead of just making it take for ever to fire? The engine runs like a dream and I get good gas mileage and the exhaust doesnt smell like gas. I like what you said about a sensor being bad. It does sound like that could be the problem. What should I check? The air filter is a brand new k&n drop in. It did it with the old dirty filter as well as with this new one.
#6
RE: Long crank time sometimes
[align=center]Hi Matt,[/align][align=center]Have you changed your fuel filter ?[/align][align=center][/align][align=center][/align][align=center]
[hr]
B. [/b]Test for Fuel System Pressure Bleed Down: [/b]With a fuel pressure gauge connected to the fuel rail, turn the key to the on position with out starting the engine. You should observe the fuel pressure gauge just up quickly to about 50 psi. Then turn the key off' if the gauge pressure falls quickly you have a system pressure bleed problem. First, check the fuel pump it has a pressure valve built into the pump, if the valve fails it can let fuel pressure bleed off of the system to quickly making the engine hard to start. Next check the fuel injectors, if the valve inside of the fuel injector leaks it can cause fuel to leak inside the engine and allowing fuel system pressure drop causing a hard starting condition.
[hr]
C. [/b]Test for [/b]Faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator: [/b]If a fuel pressure regulator diagram ruptures it can allow raw fuel into the engine through the vacuum line attached to the intake manifold. To check for this condition remove the vacuum line from the regulator and check for the presents of fuel in the vacuum line, if fuel is present replace the fuel pressure regulator with a new one.
[hr]
D. Inspect for Torn Intake Boot or Vacuum Leak:[/b] Inspect your engine for vacuum leaks or a torn air intake boot. If vacuum is allowed to leak it will cause a lean mixture inside the engine causing the engine to crank excessively before start up, replace any broken or cracked line with new and recheck system. Inspect the air intake boot, if torn it will allow the engine to have a lean fuel/air mixture causing excessive cranking, replace the air intake boot with a new unit and recheck system.
[hr]
E. [/b]Test for Low Compression.[/b] (for high mileage engines only) Remove any of the cylinders spark plugs, Insert compression gauge and test. The engine compression should be above 115 p.s.i. if not, the engine with crank longer before enough compression can be generated for ignition. [/align][align=center]Has it ever been changed ? It can cause cranking problems[/align][align=center]and blocks the flow of fuel on start `up's.[/align][align=center]I hope that you can chase down your Monte Gremlin.[/align][align=center]Good Luck,[/align][align=center]`Space[/align]
Engine Cranks Excessively[/b]
([/b]definition: the key is turned and the engine is cranking longer than usual before the engine starts running)Basic Tests[/b]
A.[/b] Testing Fuel Pressure:[/b] Test for proper fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge on the engine fuel rail, most FI (Fuel Injected) engines run between 35 and 55 psi. If no, or little fuel pressure is observed and there is power present at the fuel pump, the pump has failed and needs replacing.[hr]
B. [/b]Test for Fuel System Pressure Bleed Down: [/b]With a fuel pressure gauge connected to the fuel rail, turn the key to the on position with out starting the engine. You should observe the fuel pressure gauge just up quickly to about 50 psi. Then turn the key off' if the gauge pressure falls quickly you have a system pressure bleed problem. First, check the fuel pump it has a pressure valve built into the pump, if the valve fails it can let fuel pressure bleed off of the system to quickly making the engine hard to start. Next check the fuel injectors, if the valve inside of the fuel injector leaks it can cause fuel to leak inside the engine and allowing fuel system pressure drop causing a hard starting condition.
[hr]
C. [/b]Test for [/b]Faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator: [/b]If a fuel pressure regulator diagram ruptures it can allow raw fuel into the engine through the vacuum line attached to the intake manifold. To check for this condition remove the vacuum line from the regulator and check for the presents of fuel in the vacuum line, if fuel is present replace the fuel pressure regulator with a new one.
[hr]
D. Inspect for Torn Intake Boot or Vacuum Leak:[/b] Inspect your engine for vacuum leaks or a torn air intake boot. If vacuum is allowed to leak it will cause a lean mixture inside the engine causing the engine to crank excessively before start up, replace any broken or cracked line with new and recheck system. Inspect the air intake boot, if torn it will allow the engine to have a lean fuel/air mixture causing excessive cranking, replace the air intake boot with a new unit and recheck system.
[hr]
E. [/b]Test for Low Compression.[/b] (for high mileage engines only) Remove any of the cylinders spark plugs, Insert compression gauge and test. The engine compression should be above 115 p.s.i. if not, the engine with crank longer before enough compression can be generated for ignition. [/align][align=center]Has it ever been changed ? It can cause cranking problems[/align][align=center]and blocks the flow of fuel on start `up's.[/align][align=center]I hope that you can chase down your Monte Gremlin.[/align][align=center]Good Luck,[/align][align=center]`Space[/align]
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