Updated Note: I just did the mod below on my Grand Am and compared the 3400 in the Grand Am to the 3400 in my wife's Impala (a W-Body car). Pulley setup is completely different (and appears the AC Pulley could be removed by using just a shorter belt)!! Unless your 3400 was swapped from an N-Body and still has the N-body belt routing, this mod is NO GOOD for the Monte (or other W-bodies). I'm only leaving it here since there may be other "food for thought" with other mods.

I just want to give credit where credit is due. This is not my write up. I found it on another forum and I am simply re-sharing it on MCF. Below is the link to the original write up:
How - To: A/C Delete Bypass Pulley - GrandAmGT.com Forum
Originally written by H.O. Driver on GrandAmGT.com.

I found this interesting as his write up does NOT require an A/C Delete pulley. Just a different tensioner pulley and belt/belt routing. I may consider doing this on my own Grand Am (as the A/C does not work, nor do I have interest in fixing the A/C on it). Even though it's a write up for a 3400 in a Grand Am, the same logic should apply to the 3400 powered Montes and Impalas. As such, I felt we may have some 3400 people on MCF who might have their own reasons to be interested in an A/C delete.

Write up begins below:
This was a fun project, after tracking down the right pulley and belt, it only took an hour to get it apart, up and running. The correct belt size is a Gatorback Part #4060610 or 6PK1550. The correct pulley you need is a ribbed Compressor Works Pulley Part # 45971.


1. Remove any A/C lines that you want, and remove the 3 bolts holding the A/C compressor. Loosen the belt via the tensioner and follow the How-To guide for the belt removal process.

2. Once the belt and compressor are gone. Remove the lower Idler pulley and hang on to the bolt that holds the pulley in, this will be reused on the new ribbed compressor works pulley.

 

3. Install new pulley reusing the old bolt in place of the old lower idler pulley.



4. Install new belt with the ribbed side touching the new ribbed pulley before it runs under the crank pulley.





5. Reinstall everything you moved to get the new belt on and secure any lines or hoses left from the A/C plumbing. Make sure you properly torqued the bolts and then you are complete. As you can see the belt is much shorter than the stock belt,



I let it idle for over a half hour at operating temperature and it never went over 200* It makes plenty of contact with the water pump pulley to keep it spinning.

 

will this work on a 2000 chevy malibu 3.1 ls?

 

It depends on the configuration of the belt routing on the 3100 in the 2000 Malibu. If you look at the attached pic and the routing on your Malibu matches the layout on the right side, you are good to go, this well work.

If your routing matches the left side, you are probably going to have to make some adjustments, but I bet you can do it. You would have to add a pulley where one does not exist (verify if the the threaded hole is there for it). And the belt may need to be a different length. Outside of that, I bet it is do-able.

 

it sorta matches the right..bottom looks slated upward.. this is mine

If so, where can i order the pulley and belt?
Also, How well would the belt work as my power steering will soon be deleted as well?

 

That belt routing diagram looks like it matches the one on the right in the pic, so you should be good to make that swap.
I ordered the belt and pulley from Rockauto, but you can probably get them or order them at your local parts store. I believe the pulley part number cross references to a early 90's Chevy Beretta and the belt cross references to a Jeep or Ford Ranger (it's just a shorter belt).

If you are going to delete your Power Steering, which I assume you are removing the Power Steering pump with it (if not you well eventually have issues running the pump dry), you may need a completely different pulley/belt strategy.