Rear defrost is not working took it to the shop. They said its a triangular shaped module, cost somewhere around 20 dollars, but will cost over 300.00 due to labor. They would not tell me much more than that. Well 300.00 is a bit steep so want to fix it myself. Can someone tell me location and what to look for. Thank You.

 

My defroster isn't working either so I'd like to check also.

 

I figured my problem out, the defroster piece is broken loose. Any ideas on how to fix it? I tried taping it down and it doesn't stick.

 

The tab on the window itself? You need to either solder that back on, or go to an autoparts store and buy a repair kit which has a resin that you use to "glue" it.

 

I think we're going to try soldering.

 

Here's the best thing to do with defroster items:
1 - Check the tabs on the glass on the back, ensure they are still soldiered on (there have been some cases where they "fell off".
2 - Check the circuit braker (you have to pop the fuse block out as the thing is on the back). Here's a write up about it:
https://montecarloforum.com/forum/si...breaker-33233/
3 - Behind the rear passenger side quarter panel lives a defroster/radio antenna module. This is known to go bad. I never had to replace one, but I priced it with a dealer, it's about $20.

 

I just got caught up (due to slow Internet connections). If you go with soldiering, BE CAREFUL! Do NOT solder when the car and glass are cold, otherwise, you risk cracking.

I've rear of people who have used the repair kits from the auto parts stores successfully (and I believe those are all adhesive based, no hot products or tools required).

 

Absolutely true on both counts!!!!! However, I tried the permatex product part #21351 without success. The tab bonded back in place tight but the electrical conductivity was worthless. I removed/cleaned everything off and tried the permatex again but got the same results. After see postings recommending the frostfighter product (Frost Fighter Defroster Repair and Replacement Kits) I tried that and everything worked great. Its more money but you get ALOT more product to work with and it also worked great at repairing the section of the electrical grid that pulled away.

Spent (wasted) $27 on the two permatex attempts while the frost fighter was about $35 with shipping. 24 hours curing was recommended with the permatex while the frost fighter took only two hours.

If you DO try soldering place a wet towel on the outside of the window to help dissipate the heat to reduce the chance of cracking the glass. Its also very awkward to hold the tab in place and solder at the same time.

 

This is why it sucks that I don't have a garage!!

 

Unless you are really good at soldering I wouldn't risk trying it yourself. I would wait until the outside temperature is in the 70's or so. Also you should use a variable heat soldering iron with a low setting. I think you should use a heat sink to absorb the heat too but i don't know how you would.