01 3.8L Rear Knock Sensor Replacement Inquiry
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01 3.8L Rear Knock Sensor Replacement Inquiry
Greetings Everyone,
A couple weeks ago, my 2001 Chevy Monte Carlo SS with a 3.8L had an inspection done and at the time did not pass due to one of the oxygen sensors not ready, the catalyst not ready, the evaporator sensor not ready, and the EGR sensor not ready. I got about a mile away from the inspection place and the check engine light came on.
Since then, both Oxygen sensors have been replaced. The last fuel fill-up was Friday July 3, 2015 with Shell premium, and while going 45 mph, a half a block away, I had a range of 412 miles with the A/C running on low, and with an external temperature of 89 degrees Fairenhieght, so also based upon process of elimination, than the catalyitic converter is fine. At the time and even now, it idle's smoothly, so based upon process of elimination, it's not the EGR sensor.
Originally, I thought that there was a check engine code that had not cleared, so I drove it about 60 miles at highway speed for an hour solid without using the cruise control. As I was about to venture over to the inspection place, 7 miles from my residence, the check engine light came on again.
I knew that the car would still not pass inspection with the check engine light on, but since I've had a laundry list of items that I've had to replace over the last ten months and am getting a little tire of playing a guessing game of which parts still need to be replaced just to be able to legally drive the car on a regular basis, I took the car over to inspection place to find out what exactly the check engine code is, and it gave me code P0332, Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input Bank 2. I bought both knock sensors (both identical).
Today I was able to replace the front knock sensor. I can see the rear knock sensor between the back of the oil pan and the transmission, but I can't see how I would get it out between the two, when the stock part is 1 3/8 inches wide when the gap between the two is about 1inch to 1 1/16 inches.
My question is: is there a trick to finagling the old rear knock sensor out and the new knock in without taking off the sub-frame, lower motor mount or transmission off?
Any input would be helpful.
Thank You and Best Regards,
Dave
A couple weeks ago, my 2001 Chevy Monte Carlo SS with a 3.8L had an inspection done and at the time did not pass due to one of the oxygen sensors not ready, the catalyst not ready, the evaporator sensor not ready, and the EGR sensor not ready. I got about a mile away from the inspection place and the check engine light came on.
Since then, both Oxygen sensors have been replaced. The last fuel fill-up was Friday July 3, 2015 with Shell premium, and while going 45 mph, a half a block away, I had a range of 412 miles with the A/C running on low, and with an external temperature of 89 degrees Fairenhieght, so also based upon process of elimination, than the catalyitic converter is fine. At the time and even now, it idle's smoothly, so based upon process of elimination, it's not the EGR sensor.
Originally, I thought that there was a check engine code that had not cleared, so I drove it about 60 miles at highway speed for an hour solid without using the cruise control. As I was about to venture over to the inspection place, 7 miles from my residence, the check engine light came on again.
I knew that the car would still not pass inspection with the check engine light on, but since I've had a laundry list of items that I've had to replace over the last ten months and am getting a little tire of playing a guessing game of which parts still need to be replaced just to be able to legally drive the car on a regular basis, I took the car over to inspection place to find out what exactly the check engine code is, and it gave me code P0332, Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input Bank 2. I bought both knock sensors (both identical).
Today I was able to replace the front knock sensor. I can see the rear knock sensor between the back of the oil pan and the transmission, but I can't see how I would get it out between the two, when the stock part is 1 3/8 inches wide when the gap between the two is about 1inch to 1 1/16 inches.
My question is: is there a trick to finagling the old rear knock sensor out and the new knock in without taking off the sub-frame, lower motor mount or transmission off?
Any input would be helpful.
Thank You and Best Regards,
Dave
Monte Of The Month -- May 2012
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Monte Of The Year 2012
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,943
From: Mountains of Utah
Greetings Everyone,
A couple weeks ago, my 2001 Chevy Monte Carlo SS with a 3.8L had an inspection done and at the time did not pass due to one of the oxygen sensors not ready, the catalyst not ready, the evaporator sensor not ready, and the EGR sensor not ready. I got about a mile away from the inspection place and the check engine light came on.
Since then, both Oxygen sensors have been replaced. The last fuel fill-up was Friday July 3, 2015 with Shell premium, and while going 45 mph, a half a block away, I had a range of 412 miles with the A/C running on low, and with an external temperature of 89 degrees Fairenhieght, so also based upon process of elimination, than the catalyitic converter is fine. At the time and even now, it idle's smoothly, so based upon process of elimination, it's not the EGR sensor.
Originally, I thought that there was a check engine code that had not cleared, so I drove it about 60 miles at highway speed for an hour solid without using the cruise control. As I was about to venture over to the inspection place, 7 miles from my residence, the check engine light came on again.
I knew that the car would still not pass inspection with the check engine light on, but since I've had a laundry list of items that I've had to replace over the last ten months and am getting a little tire of playing a guessing game of which parts still need to be replaced just to be able to legally drive the car on a regular basis, I took the car over to inspection place to find out what exactly the check engine code is, and it gave me code P0332, Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input Bank 2. I bought both knock sensors (both identical).
Today I was able to replace the front knock sensor. I can see the rear knock sensor between the back of the oil pan and the transmission, but I can't see how I would get it out between the two, when the stock part is 1 3/8 inches wide when the gap between the two is about 1inch to 1 1/16 inches.
My question is: is there a trick to finagling the old rear knock sensor out and the new knock in without taking off the sub-frame, lower motor mount or transmission off?
Any input would be helpful.
Thank You and Best Regards,
Dave
A couple weeks ago, my 2001 Chevy Monte Carlo SS with a 3.8L had an inspection done and at the time did not pass due to one of the oxygen sensors not ready, the catalyst not ready, the evaporator sensor not ready, and the EGR sensor not ready. I got about a mile away from the inspection place and the check engine light came on.
Since then, both Oxygen sensors have been replaced. The last fuel fill-up was Friday July 3, 2015 with Shell premium, and while going 45 mph, a half a block away, I had a range of 412 miles with the A/C running on low, and with an external temperature of 89 degrees Fairenhieght, so also based upon process of elimination, than the catalyitic converter is fine. At the time and even now, it idle's smoothly, so based upon process of elimination, it's not the EGR sensor.
Originally, I thought that there was a check engine code that had not cleared, so I drove it about 60 miles at highway speed for an hour solid without using the cruise control. As I was about to venture over to the inspection place, 7 miles from my residence, the check engine light came on again.
I knew that the car would still not pass inspection with the check engine light on, but since I've had a laundry list of items that I've had to replace over the last ten months and am getting a little tire of playing a guessing game of which parts still need to be replaced just to be able to legally drive the car on a regular basis, I took the car over to inspection place to find out what exactly the check engine code is, and it gave me code P0332, Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input Bank 2. I bought both knock sensors (both identical).
Today I was able to replace the front knock sensor. I can see the rear knock sensor between the back of the oil pan and the transmission, but I can't see how I would get it out between the two, when the stock part is 1 3/8 inches wide when the gap between the two is about 1inch to 1 1/16 inches.
My question is: is there a trick to finagling the old rear knock sensor out and the new knock in without taking off the sub-frame, lower motor mount or transmission off?
Any input would be helpful.
Thank You and Best Regards,
Dave
greg i would never turn the knock sensors off! them are the life line to that engine staying together or coming apart! if you turn the knock sensors off you have no idea if your getting KR....
OP, can you get to it from up top if you remove the rear manifold? been a while since i looked at the rear knock sensor and i never changed them in the car because i changed mine when i built my engine so it was out of the car.
OP, can you get to it from up top if you remove the rear manifold? been a while since i looked at the rear knock sensor and i never changed them in the car because i changed mine when i built my engine so it was out of the car.
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