I am going to install an aftermarket amplifier in place of the factory amp. To do this, I obviously need to remove the factory amp and run new power and ground wires for the aftermarket amp. The aftermarket amp is a JL Audio Class D 600/6 Marine amp. They retail for around $700. This amplifier is a 6 channel amplifier that has different crossover adjustments for each channel set. Off this amp I will wire up my Audiofrog G60S 6" 2 way components and place those in the doors, and then the Audiofrog GS693 6x9 3 way coaxs in the rear package tray. For the sub I am running an Audiofrog GB10D4 10" subwoofer in a sealed box. While the amp is rated for 600w, that rating is for a 2 ohm load. 4 ohm loads are 60-75w per channel. The subwoofer channel will be bridged at 150w at 2 Ohms. Ive actually used this amp, sub and rear 6x9's in my previous car which was a 77 Z28. I sold the car a month ago and saved all the stereo stuff from it because it was a year old and barely used. The 6" components are new from Crutch @ $400.

Has anyone successfully found an amplifier adaptor that I can use to splice in an aftermarket amp? I know I can cut the wires but I am not a fan of butchering a car with only 37k on the odometer. Id rather just use and adaptor and keep the wiring intact. I know I can also pull the connectors out of the amp and make a connector with wires using pins from work but I really would like to refrain from destroying a good factory amp just for this install. Thank you.

 

Bare with me - its been probably 15 years since I worked in car audio. Just wanted to throw the idea out there though.

What if you use a factory amp bypass harness (like the Metra 70-2021 - no clue if thats the right one for your exact year/ options), but instead of using it as-is, you cut the 'loop' of wires in the aftermarket harness?

You then take the 'inputs' coming from the radio, wire that to your favorite 4 channel line output converter (to give you RCA outs to go to the amp). Then you run the 4 main channel speaker outs back to the 'output' side of this aftermarket amp bypass harness (thus sending your amp power through the factory wires to the 4 corners of the car).

That would prevent you from having to cut any factory harness, it could be put totally back to stock by just plugging the factory harness back into the factory amp, and it puts all of your connections right there under the rear deck where it'll be easy to tuck and hide everything out of sight.

 

I know GM used two different amps in the 2000-2005 Monte (I forget when the cut off was). Excuse the crude look, a few years ago I was trying to upgrade my 2004 Monte amp with the factory Monsoon amp found in the 99-05 Grand Am (among a variety of other cars). I found plug and play connectors but they were other items, so I had to add pins to them. Pretty wild. So I 100% appreciate the want to NOT cut up the factory original wiring!

Side Note - The Monsoon amp DOES work. I have ONE problem, hence why I never finished this temporary harness to make it permanent. I cannot dial the sound in to my liking because the Chevy radios do not have the "mid" adjustment option (only base and treble) as a result, I am not happy with the sound. My 2004 Grand Am has the Monsoon setup and I feel if I take the mid setting on the Grand Am to the middle setting, it sounds exactly like my test in the Monte. I have yet to find a good solution and since shelfed the project.

 

Bumpin, I found that bypass harness as well and I may try it. Thank you for that.


Maniac, I really appreciate that Monsoon amp install. That is in-fact what I am doing with this JL amp. Heres a new problem I have discovered. When you remove the factory radio, you loose a few options and I am not too keen on the idea. Seriously. I know some guys will hack a car up until its got whatever but I am not one of those guys anymore. I like non molested nice vehicles that have extremely clean modifications and time taken to get connections looking good with a factory look install or better. I have a fix for your sound without adding a DSP in between the radio and amp. It does not work as good as a DSP because it does not have time alignment or a crossover for each speaker BUT it does work well!

I am a big audiophile, so I use an app for all my music to correct the recordings. I stream all my music through this app and I can customize the EQ settings for all my vehicles and believe me, it even makes a high dollar factory car radio sound 10x better! Aftermarket set ups its like a HUGE improvement. This is what I recommend to get your midrange frequencies under control. Here are some pics of the app called EQu. I use an iphone.

You can literally taylor the audio to your specific system and it will automatically populate all your playlists from itunes or whatever you have stored on your phone. You can even volume boost the radio by sliding the entire eq spectrum up for a screaming loud output. I have had this app get me many of compliments, even when I used it in my 2013 Silverado factory junk system. I had people ask me what speakers I was using. I have a 22 RST Z71 now with the factory BOSE system and its magical with this app. I will not have to install any speakers in that truck, just a little 8 or 10" sub maybe... but it doesnt really need it to be honest.


I got the Audiofrog G60S's installed using the factory speaker mounting plate. They dont even begin to sound as good as they do with a real amp and head unit. (Expected) - Lots of work to do on this system!


Last but not least - an updated pic of the car because....


Tomorrow I am going to install the rear Frogs in the package tray. Then I am also looking at a few options as far as head units are concerned. I really dont want to lose my factory options and I kind of like the nostalgic look of the factory unit because it makes the car look original. So I am debating purchasing one of those upgraded factory radios with the aux or bluetooth connection. I am probably going to go for aux because the bluetooth connections can be a bit cheap sounding if they are done with cheap parts. In order to get the bass back in the stereo when the volume is up I am going to install a LC7i which was made SPECIFICALLY to mitigate the bass dropping issue known infamously by GM radios. link
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-4yNU7Q...4aAtgREALw_wcB

 

for the best ground drill a hole on the floor around the area where the spare tire would be. the area you have it at in the video is a piece thats glued and spot welded to the chassis. the spot welds are the only solid metal to metal contact. its also going to create heat and resistance which will shorten the life of the secondary battery.




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