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Remote wire splice

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  #11  
Old 11-10-2010 | 04:26 PM
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Well i spliced into a wire coming out of the amp that only activates with ignition. However my amp is getting power and remote power but the LED isnt lighting up. I dont have the rca's plugged into it yet so i'm not sure if thats why its not coming on or what.
 
  #12  
Old 11-10-2010 | 04:34 PM
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^^^ if the LED isnt lighting up how do you know its getting power.. did you use a multimeter.

also did you ground it
 
  #13  
Old 11-10-2010 | 08:53 PM
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yes it is grounded and powered.
 
  #14  
Old 11-10-2010 | 09:44 PM
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it would come on if it has the remote wire with rcas or not, i would say make sure your power and ground are both connected good
 
  #15  
Old 11-10-2010 | 10:00 PM
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Simple solution hook up the RCAs and Speakers. does it play.... The LED light thing could be burnt out.
 
  #16  
Old 11-11-2010 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by novagenesis300
Just ran the power wire for the upcoming woofer install. Is there any way i can splice the remote wire off of one of the wires in the trunk going to the factory amp?
Is it possible, yes. Is it a good idea, not so much. Reason being, let's say you do that and don't know what the wire you splice in to is for, it can cause you alot of headaches when trying to troubleshoot should something ever go wrong. You could overload that circuit that powers that line (not knowing if it's fused or what the fuse rating is) and something else could be effected and you won't know why you keep blowing fuses....for example. So save yourself the headache and do one of two things.....run a remote wire directly from the fuse box (the radio fuse would be a good one to tap in to) back to the amp or do as suggested earlier and run a wire to behind the deck and tap in to the red ignition wire that way if you get an aftermarket deck down the road you'll already have your remote wire in place for quick and easy hook up to the deck.
 
  #17  
Old 11-12-2010 | 08:38 AM
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well i got everything hooked up and ready to go. Everything is getting power. Line converter is in place. The woofer was thumping pretty good but not super hard hitting for 1,000 watts bridged. After about 5 min. the woofer fried.....dead. I'm running a pioneer 12" woofer rated at 1,200 watts and my amp is a kenwood excelon rated at 1,000 max. Correct me if i'm wrong but, I dont think the sub should have been even close to exploding. Also used a sealed box. Any suggestions before I replace it just to fry another one?
 
  #18  
Old 11-12-2010 | 10:49 AM
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Probably had the gain to high on the amp and caused clipping. the clipping will destroy a woofer. also was the sub right out of the box and this was the first time useing it.
 
  #19  
Old 11-12-2010 | 10:53 AM
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This was the first time using it yes. It fried pretty good too. It was smoking like a chimney.
 
  #20  
Old 11-12-2010 | 12:57 PM
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^^ most subs should be "broken in" before played hard. Which is probably why what happened happened. Play it at low volumes and slowly increase the volume over time. This can take up to 2 weeks to do properly. Basically the coils are stiff and need to be loosed. When I got my RE Audio MT 15" it was so stiff the cone wouldn't move. Took about 20hrs over 2 weeks to get it broken in so it was "more loose"
 


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