7th Gen ('06-'07): interior fan
have a question i replaced my resistor and fan for the hvac and i do not have the fan working. i am not sure if i am over looking some thing i checked all of the wires going to the ac module and power is going to it. there is no power going to the resister and the fan. this is the second one i have gotten and both are doing the same thing. is there another fuse or something the wires and plugs are still looking brand new no cuts or breaks any where. is there a fuse i am missing or do i have just bad luck with them. also could the bcm going bad again? it will be the fourth one that went bad if the bcm went bad. how often do these bcm go bad that takes out things? please don't say bcm am i just over looking something
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 12,590
From: Mentor, Ohio
There are fuse panels. I believe of the 06-07 Monte, there is one on both sides of the dash that you can access when the doors are open and another panel in the engine compartment. Odds are there is fuse and/or relay in one of the panels on the dash. I would start there.
There are fuse panels. I believe of the 06-07 Monte, there is one on both sides of the dash that you can access when the doors are open and another panel in the engine compartment. Odds are there is fuse and/or relay in one of the panels on the dash. I would start there.
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 12,590
From: Mentor, Ohio
Interesting, the car still has to have fuse panels (the one under the hood is not enough).
I just did a quick google search. Looks like GM moved them to the lower kick panel area. I forgot about that.
I just did a quick google search. Looks like GM moved them to the lower kick panel area. I forgot about that.
those are the only two unfortunately and very vage on qhat they are.
What do you mean they're vague - isn't there a fuse layout diagram?
For the OP's situation, I'd probably switch my multimeter to continuity mode (beeps when the probes are electrically connected) and just run through checking every fuse from the top (there should be two tiny bits of the tops of the blades exposed so you don't have to physically remove them).
For the OP's situation, I'd probably switch my multimeter to continuity mode (beeps when the probes are electrically connected) and just run through checking every fuse from the top (there should be two tiny bits of the tops of the blades exposed so you don't have to physically remove them).
What do you mean they're vague - isn't there a fuse layout diagram?
For the OP's situation, I'd probably switch my multimeter to continuity mode (beeps when the probes are electrically connected) and just run through checking every fuse from the top (there should be two tiny bits of the tops of the blades exposed so you don't have to physically remove them).
For the OP's situation, I'd probably switch my multimeter to continuity mode (beeps when the probes are electrically connected) and just run through checking every fuse from the top (there should be two tiny bits of the tops of the blades exposed so you don't have to physically remove them).
Do have a question though the plug for the actuator that brings in out side air and recerculate where do we get a new plug the wires are ok but the plug it self is questionable. Need help finding that part number. Autozone does not have a part number for it. Plus qhat is that plug called
I found a shop that has them they cheanged them out for me wish they could have given me the part number. But there were the wire harness further back leading to the resister that had a break in it as well. They and i dont know where the break came from. It's in a spot where there is nothing there qith slack for it to rub on or be pulled appart. Frustrating time's
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