I’m gonna be doing my big 3 upgrade soon and was thinking...

is this a chance to change my side posts to a top post connection?

best I can tell there would only 1 positive cable left on factory wire plug connection.

am I correct in thinking this?

 

Maybe I'm missing it, but why would you want to change from side post to top post? I mean you can certainly do it, I just dont follow the benefit.

Number of cables coming in doesnt really dictate which to use as there are options for single or multiple cable connections on both types of battery.

 

meaning to add the big three and car stereo on top post.

number of f cables was referring to how many of the stock wires going to the battery currently are actually being replaced by the big 3 upgrade

 

I guess my confusion was just:
-How top post vs side post battery is related to doing a big 3 upgrade / adding car audio as they seem to be unrelated. You could do a big 3 and/or add audio with a side post battery just fine, or you could change to a top post battery today without doing big 3 / adding audio, but that leads to me second point:
-The benefit of changing from a side post to a top post to make it worth even screwing with it.

Sorry, not having owned a 6th gen, I'm not exactly sure how they're wired. But in a typical big 3 upgrade, you're swapping 2 of the cables that go to the battery:
-alternator to battery
-battery to body / frame

 

im wanting top post to make it easier to add all the wires instead of stacking lugs onto an extension bolt on a side post connection.

the big three is power to alternator ground to chassis ground to block.

 

Why would you be adding multiple wires? The big 3 upgrade is generally done as a replacement, not an addition to existing wires so the only extra wire you should have is the power wire for your car audio run.

Just saying, you could get this down to a single power and single ground ring terminal + a second ring terminal for your amp on the power side. When I did this on mine, originally I found a replacement lug that had a secondary bolt threaded into the end of it. So I put my car power under the lug like normal and the amp wire under the secondary bolt.

Not that theres anything against going to a top post if that's what you really want, you'll just need to make sure to get some kind of positive terminal protective cap as itll be relatively close to the cross brace and could make contact in an accident.

That's one way to do it, but if you're concerned about too many wires at the battery, it is also often done by going ground from battery to frame and then a separate frame to engine upgrade. That alleviates one ground wire running to battery with negligible difference in performance (assuming you're planning to run the typical huge upgrade wires). You can even make both ends of that upgrade connect at the same bolt to the chassis, so it's really just one big daisy chained connection.

 

i like your idea of chassis to block to eliminate a ground on block

i am planning on using the battery bolt with the extra bolt as well. With this there are still the wires in the factory plug you send that bolt through to connect to battery that are no longer needed because of the big three.

that’s what I was trying to get at in this post. I would add top post bolts/nipple to my side post leave side post battery in car and get rid of those extra wires.

they make more wire connection/adapters for top post nipples than the threaded side post