Ok my kholer 2000 watt amp shuts off way too much, it use to blow fuses now it the circuit breaker always needs to be reset, My amp will shut off to protect itself, I have the gain at half way, I wan't the most out of my amp but can't because it will turn off.

I believe the wiring is 4 gauge, If I change my wiring to 0 gauge will that solve this issue, or should I add an extra battery?

whats your thoughts here

Thank you for the help in advance

 

There could be a lot of problems here, it could be over heating and going into protect. There could be so much voltage drop when the bass hits that it is sending the amp into protect, some amps will do this if the voltage drops below 11 volts or around there.

If you say the circuit breaker is popping then that means you either need a higher amperage breaker or you need to upgrade your wiring. All the circuit breaker is for on the wiring going to the back is to protect the wires. One rule of thumb that i have picked up on was to find the correct amperage of the breaker is to count the fuses on all the amps. For example the system i have in my signature is protected by a 200 amp breaker.

When the bass hits do the headlights dim or even the dash lights? Can you see the voltage dropping on any gauges?

If there is alot of voltage drop check out this page for what they call "the big 3" in the car audio world.

http://forums.caraudio.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=152355

I have done this and i see almost no dimming in my monte.

One last thing to check is how are your ground points? are they nice solid grounds with all paint and primer taken off?

One of these things could be the answer to the problem, i'm going to say that because you mentioned about the fuses and breakers, i'm thinking that is the first spot to check, then go with the wiring, and the final place would be the amp itself.

 

i had this issue with the rockford but it was during summer at 90 in a black car. overheat for sure. but befor that it did it a few times, went and got the best possible power wire i could find and added two 1 farad capacitors and it hasnt done it except the once in teh heat

 

Yea ide say upgrade ur power wire. Caps always help stinger has a big *** 5 farad that on the net runs like 180 there 280 at my shop lol but its a beastly capacitor.

 

Thanks all,

I think I am gonna try 0 gauge wire and then probably add a second battery later instead of a cap, a second battery is just a little more than a cap

The lights won't dim much but the gauges where my speedometer is will dim a litle at times at night if I am really pushing my system

I was thinking maybe trying a different amp, I think a better amp would perform more consistent, dont you think...

 

if its over heating, let some air back there by opening up the rear seats. if its the wire, get the 0 gauge you were talking about. to find the CORRECT fuse is not by counting how many fuses your amp has. but by how much our alt puts out. and you should change some settings because having your gain up that high is probably making your amp go into protect mode. turn the gain down and see if it does the same thing

 

Your explanation left more questions than answers.

First thing is your amp, Koiller is a very low level brand, can be found at most flea markets and many entry level stereo equipment retail stores. I only bring this up so your expectations are relative to the quality and abilities of your equipment.

Secondly, in order to give good advice on how to troubleshoot/fix the problem we'd need to know what the amp is connected to. How many subs, single or dual voice coil, what ohm ratings are the voice coils, and how do you have the coils and subs wired to the amp? Also, specs of the amp are needed as well.

Just to give you an example of why this all matters:

If your amp is rated at 2000 watts x 1 @ 2ohms

And you have two subs that are single voice coil, 2 ohms impedance

In order to run both subs off the single channel on the amp you would need to connect them together in either series or parallel and then run the wire from the subs to the amp. If you wired the subs in series, which should never be done, the amp would see a load of 4 ohms and because of that the amp would put out roughly half of the rated power.

If you wired the subs in parallel the amp would see a load of 1 ohm and would result in overheating and the amp going into protection mode constantly because the lowest impedance it's rated for is 2 ohms, anything less than that would surely result in instability and irregular operation.

So get back to me with the info I need and I'll do my best to help you figure it out. Also, I highly suggest you set your gain properly. The gain is not a volume **** and it seems you're using it in that manner. It doesn't matter how high or low the gain is set when it's set right, it's just there to match the input signal strength to the amp so the amp performs as efficiently as possible. The most common way of setting your gain is to turn your deck about 3/4 of the way up, making sure that your gain dial is turned all the way to the left, then turn the gain to the right until you begin to hear distortion. Back it off slightly until the distortion is gone, and you're done.

 

Negative. The output of the alternator has nothing to do with it. The proper way to fuse your system is dependent on the guage of the main power lead. The purpose of the main fuse is to prevent the main power lead from being the cause of a fire in the event of a catastrophic failure or short circuit, that's why you fuse your system according to the guage of your power lead. See the chart below for the fuse rating according the wire size:

 

very informative post. im having a similar issue. whenever i turn my volume up to about 30 (35 is its max btw) it plays loud and perfect and lovely but sometimes when i hit 31 the subs will stop playing ..... until i turn it back down a notch. is this known as "clipping" and what can i do to prevent this?????



heres some info.

dvd indash unit
stock alt
stock battery (under the hood)
yellow top battery (in the trunk)
4guage wire running from hotwire hood battery to yellow top positive
0 guage wire running from yellow top positive to amp
3000 audiopipe amp
(2) 12jlw7 subs
both my amp ground and yellowtop negative ground are running to wheelwell (w/ paint scarped off)
14 gauge speaker wire
dual sealed box

ive had a few pros tell me to to take the ground off wheelwells and run ALL THE WAY to the negative post under the hood battery. can anyway make any suggestions on what my problem may be ?


BTW my gains are turned down on amp as well as bass boost.