Is there a way
to know the min and max air space

to be able to make a well performance sub box?????? for my two 10 inch subs

 

Yes, I dont know, Look:

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To find such data are required to know the parameters Thiele / Small. with that data you can calculate the EBP.

The EBP will indicate if your subwoofers work best in a sealed or vented.

I leave you some web links to help you calculate your box.


http://www.ajdesigner.com/phpsubwoof...t_equation.php

http://www.thielesmall.com/

 

Im doing the same thing and am curious how to do this. i have an 01 MC with the factory amp in the trunk, i want to keep my factory radio but power door speakers and 6x9s with my 4 channel amp, and i want to have my mono amp run my subs. what i was thinking was taking a line converter and splicing my output wires after the factory amp and cutting the OEM wires from the amp and running them to the 4 channel amp. but the problem is the line converter only has a left and right output. would that mess up the signal somewhere? i mean would my subs be trying to play higher freq, or vice versa would my 4 channel try and play lows? heres what i have, rockford fosgate p400.4, infinity kappa 6.5 components, infinity kappa 6x9s, kicker L7 10s, kicker 1200.1 mono D, and a tsunami 2 farad cap. the only thing i had time to install last weekend was my 6x9s and they sound horrible with the factory amp!! please help anyone!

 

you'd need an amp with a cross over, to take out the high signals. you can use an external cross over, a bass modual that can reproduce the data in only that frequency, bass boosters they're some times called. you'll want a cross over reguardless, i suggest an external cross over. if you really wanna get expensive, sound processors are an option, like the 3sixty2, (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...87322953-.html)

an alpine PXE-H650, (http://www.woofersetc.com/p6241/PXEH...-processor.htm)

the new JBL MS-8, http://www.crutchfield.com/s_109MS8/...-8&ssi=0&tp=84 i'm a really big fan of them, they're top of the line, they just came out, but they're around 700$ or 800 msrp from a certafied dealership. you're looking at about 400 for the rocker fosgate modual, 500 for the alpine one and 700 for the JBL unit, the options are progressive and each one offers more features.

you can also look into the audison bitone. http://caraudiomag.com/articles/audi...-one-processor whitch is a similer unit, that unit does many things but in your case would simply be your sound processor. google these units, i'm sure one of these will do what you want, at hefty price but you get what you pay for. never forget that

the JBL unit and the alpine unit do t\o tuning, so where ever you place the mic, your system will tune its self for this.

 

that sucks... i was hoping there would be a cheaper/easier solution. i already have spent my budget, im trying to keep my factory deck because of onstar and the programming features that are in the factory radio. i have an axxess line converter, but im assuming this is only good for the subs? i could keep my speakers hooked up to factory amp but i really want to power them with more RMS like they are rated. i replaced my 6x9s last weekend and they dont have as much bump to them as the stock speakers did even though my infinity kappas are 4 ohm just like my factory speakers were. the weird thing is, when i single out one 6x9 it has more bass than when they are leveled out evenly left to right. why it that? my guess is when i single out on speaker it is getting more power from the factory amp, but that dont make sense because you would think that its a 4 channel amp and can only put out the same amount or wattage to an individual channel. its weird to think that if i single out one speaker all the power from the amp would go to one channel. any ideas?

 

6 x9 removes and installs a Component set, I suggest a MTX THS652. If you bridge amplifier is stable at 2 ohms, connect the parallel MTX

http://www.mtxaudio.eu/spip.php?article891

 

He doesn't have power antenna, but even if he did it wouldn't be a good idea to turn that into your remote lead because the antenna is only powered up when the radio is on so when you go to play a cd, the antenna retracts and the amp would get shut off.

That all depends on how knowledgeable you are about car audio and since you're asking this question it's clear your knowledge is limited so my suggestion to you would be to stick with manufacturer suggested specs. I mean no offense to you by saying that but the other way to calculate what your subs would be best for would require you to be very well versed in car audio and how certain characteristics in the car environment can/will effect the performance of your audio system. So what I'd do if I were you is find out what the manufacturer suggests for your subs and build a box within those specs.

No need to cut any wires, just tap in to them with T-tap connectors. BUT, you're gonna need two line converters, one for the 4ch and one for the sub amp. Just make sure the one for the 4ch is a 4ch converter. You can tap into the factory amp to get the signal, run rca's to your amps and you'd be good to go.

Since your amps have xovers built in, the speakers connected to them will only play the frequencies the amp allows them to play based on how you have to xovers set.

See my post above

 

theres a modual to retain the onstar system with an after market radio, it makes an install quite simple, and it's quite nice. i didn't have onstar so i got a different modual, but this o ne is quite simple, simply plug in the unit to the stock harness, and connect the wire for yoru new decks harness to the corresponding colors.

and if you go that rought, i'd reccomend a 4 channel amp, keep out the rare speakers, put 2 way components up front, and run it active. a perfectly cheap deck is the Alpine CDA-9887, + GMOS-04 GM http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120GMOS...n-Adapter.html
http://www.6ave.com/shop/product.aspx?sku=ALPCDA9887
first off, lets start with your question. put simply, the factory speakers are designed to cary them selves, as most after market speakers are not. they are designed for a sub to cary the bass out. factory paper speakers in nature have good bass, but very very sloppy mids. those kappa's are good speakers, but they are designed around highs and mids, infinity is very well knowen for there bright highs and clean mids. every speaker company focuses on different things, and some of the very high end models such as focal, rainbow, hertz, PPI (high end stuff) will have all these atributes, but most of those are out of your budget.
but if you wanted to go 3 way, i'd suggest the new PPI c3 3 way system they just made. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...I+PC3.65C.html

quite simply, going active refers to controling the cross over ranges at your deck, or in a modual, instead of a passive system that can't be ajusted. like the modual's that come with most component systems. just don't install that, run the lines as they are labeled, (high) (low) (mid), the mids will go to the channels you wire to your woofers, the lows to the sub amp if you have a sub, and the highs to the channels that you run to your tweeters. it's quite simple, from there you can tune everything from that deck.

this will run you only another 300$ and be a very good solution to onstar issue, and give you good control over your system, and can sound just as good as a system with an ms-8, bit one or anything of the sort, the only thing those units were doing for you was reproducing the signal form your stock deck into highs and lows, and spliting and balancing them, most decks split the signals, and going active allows you to mentain control of your balance of where your highs mids and lows cross over. i suggest a Google search, for the term active to understand it a bit more, but basicly. you need a chanel for every peice of a component system you run, if you go 3 way, you'll need processor. but you can still do it the same way. just with another 2 chanel amp, along with the 4 chanel you have. each chanel controlling a speaker it's own.

 

ok so i checked the factory wire colors and realized i had one of my speakers neg and positive wires reversed. once i switched this, my 6x9s sounded great. I will install my door components when i get time. after hearing how well the 6x9s sounded with the stock amp, i have decided to keep the stock amp and just splice into my wires with the mentioned T- tap connectors to install my line output converter for my amp and subs. one question though. on the LOC there are 5 wires, 4 of which are for the speakers, the 5th is unknown to me. Is this a ground wire or a remote wire? there were no instructions in the package, its a Metra Axxess