[QUOTE=04MonteLS;141857]No, not having a cap is not bad for your car. Not having enough current supplied by your alternator to run you vehicles electronics and your system without putting a strain on your electrical system is bad for you car.

Well, I was told to have one anyway because of the system I have in my car. But I see your point!

The good thing is that I am not having a problem with my electrical system from the inside nor my lights on the outside dimming everytime I play my system. Acually, I hardly play it (only when I am far away from my home). Which is rare and only going too and from work. But, I have been looking at my batt gauge and I have been noticing that the needle is not laying on the notch that it should be.

Put it like this:
My Battery gauge needle already DO NOT lay accuratly in the middle of the gauge. Its mainly lay 2 notches over to the positive side (before and after the system was installed in my car). Now, when I play my subs, the needle barely moves slightly left towards the next notch.

I figure my cars electrical system has inaccurate reading anyway.
I just don't want the subs to drain it.

 

If you want to get an accurate reading on your electrical system then you need to get a DMM and connect it to the battery to get a reading at idle. Then get another reading with the system going/headlights on and heater or A/C going. If the voltage drops below 13.5 then you're not a good candidate for a cap right now because your electrical system is struggling. Normal voltage should be between 13.8 and 14.5. If your car struggles to keep the voltage at 13.8 or better then you need an alternator that puts out more juice. You can do whatever you want, i'm not trying to change your mind as much as i'm trying to educate you.

You say you don't want the subs to "drain it", so if you're worried about that now then a cap is only going to magnify the problem because like I said, you're just adding another item to the electrical system that draws current. Keep in mind that your amp is rated at 14.4v so anything below that is significantly dropping the power it can put out.

 

04MonteLS, All education is the best too have. LOL! I just want to make sure I don't drain my alternator out. Well, since you said that the cap will drain the alternator (if the volt is below 13.8) then I won't install it. I will have to buy the tester like you said. If it is drawing much current, then I will just have to opt out to buy the $200 and up alternator for better response. I aprreicate it though.

 

I personally wouldn't buy any more 'upgrade' parts until you get a multimeter, you can get a basic one for $20; but you really need to find out what is drawing current with the car off- if the car isn't starting after it sits for awhile, then something has a parasitic drain. I would check and make sure that amp is actually turning off, and isn't still powered up when you shut the car off.

IMO, even a basic multimeter should be a requirement for anybody wanting to do any electrical work to their vehicle. When stuff goes wrong, you need to have some sort of tool to diagnose it, and a simple test light just doesn't give you a complete picture of what is going on.

 

Oh, I will buy the multimeter first (just to check and see whats goin on). My amp does not stay on anymore. I found out where the problem was, which I now tapped into the ignition wire and now when the ar cuts off, the amp does as well. I am talking about my battery gauge on my dashboard that reads two notches to the right instead of directed in the middle (where it suppose to be). Hell, my oil gauge read inaccurate as well (like I have more oil then I need in my car which I don't). I am just trying to tackle the small noticable problems before they get worser. Ya know!

 

I highly recommend Mechman Rhino series alternators, they are beasts and are actually underrated. The 250a unit benches at over 270a.

Amen!