Amp Drains Battery!!!!!
#1
Amp Drains Battery!!!!!
Now I did the whole installation with the stock headunit and the line converter. It is finally working perfect until it drains my battery for me needing a jump. I have installed a line converter to my 2000 RMS Brutus Hyphonics amp with (2) 12 inch 1400 watt Pioneer Premier subs. I have connected the remote wire to the ignition wire so my amp turns on when I start my car but also it drains my battery to where I need a jump. I was wondering by installing a capacitor will help free some tension off the battery being drained? Please help, any suggestions will be gladly appreciated.
#3
Are you sure the wire for the Amp Turn On isnt still powered even after you turn off the ignition? You might want to use a meter and check the voltage.
#5
I was wondering by installing a capacitor will help free some tension off the battery being drained? Please help, any suggestions will be gladly appreciated.
may have to upgrade the alt if you havnt done so already and what kind of bat are u using
#6
i got the same prob but im almost positvie that it is the lights on my cap that stay on cuz it drained after i had the car setting for a week. if u drive everyday it shouldnt drain that fast. 2000rms is real power and if anything hooked up is not driven it will slowly drain. if you are driving driving everyday and it still drains, try a new batt. A GOOD BATT. if it was the alt you would know.
#7
Now I did the whole installation with the stock headunit and the line converter. It is finally working perfect until it drains my battery for me needing a jump. I have installed a line converter to my 2000 RMS Brutus Hyphonics amp with (2) 12 inch 1400 watt Pioneer Premier subs. I have connected the remote wire to the ignition wire so my amp turns on when I start my car but also it drains my battery to where I need a jump. I was wondering by installing a capacitor will help free some tension off the battery being drained? Please help, any suggestions will be gladly appreciated.
Get a DMM and check for voltage at your amp across your remote lead and ground lead. Just make sure you do this w/o the key in the ignition and post back with your results.
#8
Alright fellas, I thank you all for your input. I never installed the cap (still in the process of doing so). I ended up tappin into the ignition harness again and found a wire that will turn the amp on when the key turns to the ON position. I made sure the connection was proper, of course, I had to keep looking at the amp and turning the key towards the off position just to make sure the amp turns off. Which it does and now my car starts regularly and I am able to control my bass with the bass **** while driving. The situation I am having is making sure I install the cap properly.
The cap I have is a Power Acoustik 1.5 Farad
I drilled 5 holes on the shocks housin unit (located in the turnk on the right side).
The 5 holes are for two at the top and two at the bottom so the cap can be mounted right. The 5th hole is for the ground (I made sure there was no paint, nothing but bare metal).
With time not on my side. I just prepared the work area in my trunk for now but once I am able to install it I will.
**Not having a cap is bad for my car?**
I did read the instructions on how to install it and It instructed me to take the power wire from the batt and channel it to the cap. Take more power wire from the cap (hooked on the positive connection) and channel it to the amp. The negative connection on the cap is suppose to be channel to the bare metal as my ground.
Leave the ground connection from the amp alone.
So I am suppose to have only two ground connection connected to my car.
If the instructions sound about accurate, please inform yay or nay. Need your expertise to make the installation proper.
Thanks in Advance ALL!
The cap I have is a Power Acoustik 1.5 Farad
I drilled 5 holes on the shocks housin unit (located in the turnk on the right side).
The 5 holes are for two at the top and two at the bottom so the cap can be mounted right. The 5th hole is for the ground (I made sure there was no paint, nothing but bare metal).
With time not on my side. I just prepared the work area in my trunk for now but once I am able to install it I will.
**Not having a cap is bad for my car?**
I did read the instructions on how to install it and It instructed me to take the power wire from the batt and channel it to the cap. Take more power wire from the cap (hooked on the positive connection) and channel it to the amp. The negative connection on the cap is suppose to be channel to the bare metal as my ground.
Leave the ground connection from the amp alone.
So I am suppose to have only two ground connection connected to my car.
If the instructions sound about accurate, please inform yay or nay. Need your expertise to make the installation proper.
Thanks in Advance ALL!
#9
The wire coming from your BAT you cut it a bit long so you can channel it into the POS + side of the cap. Then make a new wire and also put it on the POS+ side of the cap and that will run to the AMP. Now just ground the other side of the cap NEG- to a good grounding point. SInce your using your strut mount, just loosen one of he nuts and ground it there.
I hope this helps.
I hope this helps.
#10
No, not having a cap is not bad for your car. Not having enough current supplied by your alternator to run you vehicles electronics and your system without putting a strain on your electrical system is bad for you car.
A cap should only be used on electrical systems that experience little to no voltage drop with the system thumping, headlights and heater on. When I say little to no voltage drop, i'm talking about half of a volt or less.
Using a cap in any situation other than that will result in a larger load being put on your alternator and more strain on your electrical system. This is why caps have a very bad reputation in the 12v industry, because most people don't use them properly and end up blaming it on the cap.
Think about it like this:
If your lights are dimming with your system playing, it's because your alternator isn't putting out enough juice to run everything so the big current draw is taking power away from your lights. Adding a cap to a system like this simply adds another current draw to the equation because the cap needs to be recharged as well. So if your electrical system is already struggling, you just made it even worse by adding another draw on an already overdrawn electrical system.
The way to fix this problem is to upgrade to a h/o alternator.
A cap should only be used on electrical systems that experience little to no voltage drop with the system thumping, headlights and heater on. When I say little to no voltage drop, i'm talking about half of a volt or less.
Using a cap in any situation other than that will result in a larger load being put on your alternator and more strain on your electrical system. This is why caps have a very bad reputation in the 12v industry, because most people don't use them properly and end up blaming it on the cap.
Think about it like this:
If your lights are dimming with your system playing, it's because your alternator isn't putting out enough juice to run everything so the big current draw is taking power away from your lights. Adding a cap to a system like this simply adds another current draw to the equation because the cap needs to be recharged as well. So if your electrical system is already struggling, you just made it even worse by adding another draw on an already overdrawn electrical system.
The way to fix this problem is to upgrade to a h/o alternator.