Well i found a local tuner. I remembered a few months back i had a customer in looking for a CPU (Intel socket 478 P4 2.8) for their Dyno. I sold em one for like 20 bucks. I called the customer who referred them to me and he got me in touch with them. They mainly do Subarus but have done a couple l67's. They remembered me hooking them up on the CPU, so i think i'll get a pretty good price. We'll see next week!!!

After dropping the zzp pcm in with just the CAI Mufflers and Down pipe, WOW is all i can say. It seems like it got a little faster every day... And i absolutely love the sound of the magnaflows!!! I cant wait to get the actual HP mods installed. I'm already thinking about a turbo and trans upgrade. It's crazy what a little performance can do to a person. I guess it depends on if and/or how many tickets i get before then. I think i'm about to put my 220g 15K Salt Water tank on craigslist just to help finance my monte mods. I've got to have a hood like 2003supersports https://montecarloforum.com/forum/pi...&pictureid=449 I also want a new paint job. If 'm not careful i'll have double what this car is worth in it. Oh well. I love the car, so why not!!!

 

You're telling me!

How many miles do you have on that Intimidator?

-Riggs.

 

60,000

 

Just be careful with getting a shop to tune it.

The 3800's are supposedly a little bit tricky to tune, at least for tuners that are used to tuning the LSx engines or Japanese cars.

Chances are you could find someone local with a PowrTuner or HPTuners and it would be a bit cheaper, but at least make sure that the shop knows what they are doing.

-Riggs.

 

you can find his hood at PFYC.com

I actually believe it's $200 off right now :P

 

Rockers and plog went in today. SC pulley came off extremely easy with the ZZP pulley puller. 3.4 goin on tomorrow. I have a 3.5 in case... :P Good call on the 90 elbows. They were needed. plugs, wires, tstat Rad flush, trans filter, oil change and fuel filter will be installed in the morning. The Mechanic is going to pick me up when he's done. he's bringing the scan tool and we'll check the readings on the way to drop him off. I know KR is the main thing I'm looking for.. but what else should i check out? Should i check some timing settings? Anybody know what the ideal numbers would be? Thanks a lot for everybody's help. This is an awesome forum! I'll be hittin the dyno and the racetrack soon I'll report back with some results pics/vids!!

 

Ok its done. Getting 0 KR at idle and a max of 5 WOT. I dont know wht this setting is but spark was at 27 at idle and averaged 15 at WOT. I am saying WOT because i was flooring it through 1st and 2nd. any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

You won't have any KR unless the engine is under load (ie making boost).

5 @ WOT is too much, I wouldn't floor it again until that is fixed.

Either stick your 3.5" on, and try again- or if you're getting a tune soon (5* can be taken care of with just tuning)- then don't floor it until then.

 

I put the 3.5 on and it fells faster. KR maxed at 2 WOT. is that still dangerous? I guess intercooler would be a good next upgrade. That should take care of any current and future KR issues. Anything not so expensive i could do to be able to run the 3.4 with no KR? When i get it tuned should i use the 3.4 or 3.5? Thanks for your help.

 

If I were you then I'd ditch the ported front manifold and get a powerlog. If you're still seeing KR with a 3.5" pulley and you're running 1.9modded rockers and a decent intake then I would guess that you're exhaust is bottlenecked at the front manifold and the engine is having trouble breathing.A powerlog would only be $80 if you get the most basic one.
If you want to upgrade further, then I'd consider ditching the downpipe and getting a set of headers.
By the time you spend the money on a downpipe and powerlog, you've already spent as much as the cheaper sets of headers cost.

As far as which pulley to use -
Like bumpin said, you should be able to tune out the 5* of KR with the 3.4". I don't know much about tuning, but I would assume that if adjusting the fueling would take care of the KR issue then you could leave the timing at stock (or better) and run the 3.4" safely. If you have to cut a lot of timing to run the 3.4" pulley then I'd consider the 3.5". Whoever does your tune should know which will work better (or else I wouldn't let them tune the car if I were you), and it's an easy swap to switch pulleys.

Oh, and I'm sure that most people that have been running supercharged setups for a while know this, but here's a trick I learned for changing pulleys.....
Instead of pulling the belt off of the supercharger to change the pulley, slide the belt back onto the snout of the supercharger. If you take the belt off from the front of the blower then it might slide off of the idlers and you'd have to re-route the belt again. If you just slide it back onto the snout it won't go anywhere.

-Riggs.