Should I buy myself a cold air inductions brand? Or a Wizair brand? Also what about having to oil the filters? I dont want to mess that up, and screw up my car. Ive never modded a car before. Does either one of them come with the filter pre oiled?

Also, which SOUNDS better?

Should I get a 180 t stat? Is it easy to install? If anything my dad works on our cars, and I have no doubt he can do it, but he doesnt want me to mod my car; cause he thinks ill crash it if I do cause its modded. I dont see why he cares if I mod it, im the one who worked for three years to buy myself a car in the first place.

Another thing, for this down pipe to delete the ubend, which one do I get? Theres so many options!

http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/...Downpipes.aspx

I know I need a cat to pass inspection, but if im not going to be doing any other exaust work besides ubend delete, and resonator delete, what options should I have for the pipe? And does this downpipe come with the resonator deleted? Im sorry im kinda a noob at this x.x

Which should I do first? CAI or new down pipe?

 

I did quite a bit of research a year or so ago when I wanted a CAI and went with Cold Air Inductions. Excellent customer service, build quality and design are what sold me. I'm very satisfied with my purchase. As far as a downpipe, if the car is a daily driver and you have emission testing you'll want to go with the 2.5" stainless w/cat. Unless you absolutely have to have the bragging rights of having a 'ZZP' downpipe on your car I'd shop around though. There are alternatives on the market that will work just as well for less money.

 

I went with the Wizaired cause I hated the look of the stock inlet tube.
If your car is a daily driver putting a 180 T-stat in it the heat won't work as well.
It is recommended to get a 3" downpipe with the L67 engine. I put a non stainless downpipe on my 05 SS and it really never rusted (and I live in the salt belt). If you do get a downpipe, you will probably need to get the PCM reflashed because it will throw a P0420 code. You can also have ZZP permanently tune out that error code so you will be able to pass emissions.

 

How can I have zzp flash that out of my pcm? And im going to be using it as a daily so im gonna say the 2.5 stainless cat is the right choice? Since I dont plan on putting magna/borla on my car? Aprox how much should it cost for a shop to weld this on for me? And I believe im going to go with the cold air inductions.

Still though, with cold air inductions, do I have to spray that oil on the cone filter before installing it?

Also note, I have the 3.8 sc, not the na. So does that make it so I would need the 3 in vs the 2.5?

And as for the shopping around, do you mean ebay/amazon, or like muffler/exhaust system shops?

 

Before changing your downpipe, you need to have an idea of what mods you want to ultimately do. On a L67 (3800 SC), a 3in is typically the recommended option, it opens you up for some additional future mods.
On a L36 (3800 NA), unless the owner planned to go crazy (such as considering a turbo or some internal/expensive mods), a 2.5in downpipe is all you really need.
I personally wanted a stainless pipe on mine so I never had to worry about rust (also at the time, my Monte stood a chance of becoming a daily driver).

Now, if you change the cat and don't put an OEM one in, these cars tend to be "touchy" and will throw a P0420 code. It's not that the cat is not working, it's the readings from the O2 sensor don't match up with what the PCM considers to be working. Any one, like ZZP, that can re-flash your PCM can "delete" the P0420 permanently from your PCM (think of it like the PCM does not even know that code exists, so therefore lacks the ability to throw the code).

As for shopping around, I think it all comes into what you want. There are options for downpipes/cats based on headers, bolt on options, weld in etc. You can check RockAuto for stock options, you have ZZP, Intense, 3800Performance, WBodyStore as the typical 3800 shops that have some options as well.

Take your time and figure out what all you wish to do, run some searches on MCF and ask questions. You will get a LOT of different ideas and help this way.

 

A lot of people using the ZZP & Hogan downpipes have had a problem with the P0420 code setting after replacing their downpipe, so they have their PCM reprogrammed. When they do they have that code deleted. There are several companies (including ZZP) that can reprogram your PCM and remove codes. The SC & NA engines both have the same downpipe from the factory. The reason some go to a 3" pipe is to compliment additional modifications they have or intend upon making. With a 3" pipe you will loose a little bottom end power but make up for it in the upper rpm range. For an every day driver with little or no mods a 2.5" downpipe (even on a SC engine) is adaquate. When I say shop around check online and local both to find the best deal you can. Magnaflow, Dynomax (Walker) and a few other compnaies all make downpipes. The downpipe is bolted into position so no welding is required to install it. As far as cost to install I couldn't say because prices vary so much across the Nation. The Cold Air Inductions CAI comes with a reusable pre-oiled filter so you don't need to treat it prior to installation.

 

OP - You do not need to ever spray any oil on our filter. It comes pre-oiled from the factory and requires nothing, just plug and play. To date we have sold over 10K oiled air filters and have never had a single quality issue with any of them. When the time comes to either recharge (clean and re-oil) the air filter, if you do not want to mess with it you can just buy an entirely new replacement filter.

Our CAI requires no additional modifications or tuning and, is simple to install, will not throw a CEL, is 100% made right here in the USA, and comes with a lifetime warranty.

We have done much testing (IAT, Dyno, and Flo-bench) on different tube configurations and the fact is that there is nothing we could add to the current CAI set-up that we offer that would provide gains that would be worth the added cost of a different intake tube. The factory one that it comes with is so short and a straight shot that changing it would not even equate to a single HP on the dyno, and due to the length of the tube the IAT would not change. So what we offer will provide you the best benefits with our insualted and eclosed airbox, for the best quality, and the best price.

Let us know if you have any questions, we are always more than happy to help! Thanks!!