Evil Axles
#11
11-24-2013, 10:28 PM
If you have a bad control arm bushing AND a ball joint, if they are on the same control arm, it might be easier to replace the control arm all together.
You can upgrade your end links to Energy Suspension poly end links.
I assume your tie rods are stock? I would suggest Moog tie rods with the grease fittings. They also have the same dimensions as the stock ones, this means when you take the stock ones off, count the turns, then put the new ones on, counting the same turns (also, try not to move the torque nut, gives you a good "stop" point). Also, have a propane torch handy when removing the old tie rod. The nut holding it to the steering knuckle is a pistol. Heat the nut up, since it's not a castle nut, it has a nylon keeper, if you melt the nylon out, makes the job a LOT easier. You will also want to heat the body of the tie rod up and then let it cool to help brake it's aged bond to the inner tie rod.
Hope that helps a little as you spec out your next steps.
You can upgrade your end links to Energy Suspension poly end links.
I assume your tie rods are stock? I would suggest Moog tie rods with the grease fittings. They also have the same dimensions as the stock ones, this means when you take the stock ones off, count the turns, then put the new ones on, counting the same turns (also, try not to move the torque nut, gives you a good "stop" point). Also, have a propane torch handy when removing the old tie rod. The nut holding it to the steering knuckle is a pistol. Heat the nut up, since it's not a castle nut, it has a nylon keeper, if you melt the nylon out, makes the job a LOT easier. You will also want to heat the body of the tie rod up and then let it cool to help brake it's aged bond to the inner tie rod.
Hope that helps a little as you spec out your next steps.
Priced it all out on rockauto, 2 tie rod ends, 2 ball joints, 2 front and 2 back control arm bushings, and a pair of sway bar links. All moog with shipping is gonna be $199.10 not too bad. So far I've replaced all 4 hubs with timkens, and both axles with A1Cardone. I'll finish the rest off with moog and then go play around in the back end.
I dont need pairs of everything, but I figure I might as well get it out of the way, its an 03 with 145k so it'll need to be done sooner or later. If i were to replace the entire control arms I'd want to go with ZZP ones, but they're a bit out of my price range so I'll keep em stock, probably just clean and paint em while I have em out. As for the poly end links, the roads out here are pretty rough so I think I'll pass lol.
#12
11-25-2013, 05:48 AM
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,175
Keep in mind, the bushings on the control arms are pressed in. They can be a PAIN to get new ones in (hence why if you need bushings and ball joints, I'd consider just replace the entire arm, it's all pre-set to slam in).
As for poly end links, if you are switching JUST the end links to poly, you won't notice much, if any, change in the ride. But if you are trading other bushings (like the sway bar bushings) to poly, you will notice it.
As for poly end links, if you are switching JUST the end links to poly, you won't notice much, if any, change in the ride. But if you are trading other bushings (like the sway bar bushings) to poly, you will notice it.
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