Repair Guide: Timing Belt Info on the 3.4 LQ
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 33
That lOoks about correct. The notch is a small "mark/groove". That is about the correct position. Try to set #1 at TDC with a long screwdrive in the plug hole turn the mortor by hand. TheN fit the balance; it should be close to the TDC mark on the case.
Well take a quick look please. I would like to have the right timing before I finally re install my engine.
the blue box is roughly in the same area where the notch is on the outer edge of the balancer. thats the notch that Im refering too? Now I did notice i notch on the silver metal, is that what you are refering too?
Because the alldata instructions have the woodruff groove on the crank shaft facing the 12 oclock poistion and that groove doesnt match up with the triangle part.
the blue box is roughly in the same area where the notch is on the outer edge of the balancer. thats the notch that Im refering too? Now I did notice i notch on the silver metal, is that what you are refering too?
Because the alldata instructions have the woodruff groove on the crank shaft facing the 12 oclock poistion and that groove doesnt match up with the triangle part.
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 22
I recently had a shop replace the seal on the oil drive, that dreaded oil leak that requires the heads to come off. The car has recently went from a good car except from the oil leak, to a car that shudders, idles horribly, accelerates bad and even hesitates and also leaks oil from another place somewhere above the a/c compressor. Im going back to the shop to tell them that the cams where not put back right, or the belt had crap on it and wore out. I just want to make sure before i ask, that this accusation is right. I've had nothing but problems with this car.. fyi, its a 95 monte z34
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 33
After the timing belt was replaced by the previous owner the engine "ran" on the back three cyl. The fronts were 180* out of phase. The engine will not run.
If your's is miss timed slightly that might cause shuddering. Engine at TDC with cam markers flat on back cyl. lock cam bolts. Turn 360* then check cam markers flat then lock bolts; it is timed.
I did get mine started last weekend for first time . It was rough BUT there were vaccumn leaks to clear up. Check PVC valve; that is a big leak if it is open or dis connected. Check plug wires for proper placement. Replace the small vac lines with cracked rubber fittings
.
If your's is miss timed slightly that might cause shuddering. Engine at TDC with cam markers flat on back cyl. lock cam bolts. Turn 360* then check cam markers flat then lock bolts; it is timed.
I did get mine started last weekend for first time . It was rough BUT there were vaccumn leaks to clear up. Check PVC valve; that is a big leak if it is open or dis connected. Check plug wires for proper placement. Replace the small vac lines with cracked rubber fittings
.
I recently had a shop replace the seal on the oil drive, that dreaded oil leak that requires the heads to come off. The car has recently went from a good car except from the oil leak, to a car that shudders, idles horribly, accelerates bad and even hesitates and also leaks oil from another place somewhere above the a/c compressor. Im going back to the shop to tell them that the cams where not put back right, or the belt had crap on it and wore out. I just want to make sure before i ask, that this accusation is right. I've had nothing but problems with this car.. fyi, its a 95 monte z34
It was on 60degV6. It referenced changing the exhaust a certain degree before or after and intake a sililar change. Letting the exhaust stay open longer or closing it sooner and the intake opening sooner. It almost appears to be an early variable cam setup from a newer motor.
Are you going to try it? You would need a degree wheel on the crank.
Are you going to try it? You would need a degree wheel on the crank.
once i do a successfull timing belt swap i may go back and play with the cam timign a bit, but i was ?ing this since the ECM is looking at 2 crank sensors while also looking at the intake(?) cam sensor if they are out of time im not sure what the ECM would do,
i think the thread said to only change the exhuast cams 10* which could work since the computer wont know if the exhuast side was changed, but i cant remember which way they had to be adjusted,
its a bit complex at the moment but i WILL want to try this eventualy, i like to dive into the hard stuff once im familuar with the engine, till then lots of research
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 33
They removed the heads, fixed the oil drive leak then replaced the heads.
Did you have the heads inspected for bad valves or guides or a valave grind?
Once the belt was "replaced" (with a new belt) did they truely know the timing procedure? Several mechanics I talked to had no idea as to belt timing.
Did the cams "slip" after the engine ewas timed?
You can check the timing with a 15mm breaker to crank TDC and visually see the cams being "flat" or not. Remove just the front valve cover and at least check the front bank. Then you will know (eleimiunate one cause). If the oil leak is over the a/c is it simlply a valve cover seal?
Finding the problem is eliminating all the other options.
Did you have the heads inspected for bad valves or guides or a valave grind?
Once the belt was "replaced" (with a new belt) did they truely know the timing procedure? Several mechanics I talked to had no idea as to belt timing.
Did the cams "slip" after the engine ewas timed?
You can check the timing with a 15mm breaker to crank TDC and visually see the cams being "flat" or not. Remove just the front valve cover and at least check the front bank. Then you will know (eleimiunate one cause). If the oil leak is over the a/c is it simlply a valve cover seal?
Finding the problem is eliminating all the other options.
I recently had a shop replace the seal on the oil drive, that dreaded oil leak that requires the heads to come off. The car has recently went from a good car except from the oil leak, to a car that shudders, idles horribly, accelerates bad and even hesitates and also leaks oil from another place somewhere above the a/c compressor. Im going back to the shop to tell them that the cams where not put back right, or the belt had crap on it and wore out. I just want to make sure before i ask, that this accusation is right. I've had nothing but problems with this car.. fyi, its a 95 monte z34
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 22
I would do the work myself, but im back in school and the engine is a pain to do anything with. They replaced a thermostat and put the belt back on. The car goes back into the shop friday, they are going to check if the belt isnt on right or if the cams are off. They also said it could be tranny or gas fuel filter.. which i know it isnt. The fuel filter is 18 months old and the tranny is a different feel when it is not being happy. I believe the shop knows whats up, the mechanics seem very with it and not exactly out to get me. I think the new oil leak is something to do with a seal or valve that didnt get put back right.
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 33
Why did they replace the thermostat?
What belt did they put back on? The serpentine or the timing belt?
Did they recheck the cams OR did they tell you "NO it's not the cam timing that's fine" (but they never rechcked it)
If they fixed the oil leak and it still leaks they did not fix the oil leak. It's the valve covers or the drive mechanism. OR the cam chambers or the heads. There is not a lot to leak. If it's over the AC it's probably not the drive. Is that why they changed the therm gasket? because it was anti
F and not oil?
Are the plugs dirty or is there oil in the plug galley? Are the plugs and wires new or just OK. 18 months for a dirty fuel tank is too long for the filter. Remove the filter and cut it open to see IF it is dirty inside.
What belt did they put back on? The serpentine or the timing belt?
Did they recheck the cams OR did they tell you "NO it's not the cam timing that's fine" (but they never rechcked it)
If they fixed the oil leak and it still leaks they did not fix the oil leak. It's the valve covers or the drive mechanism. OR the cam chambers or the heads. There is not a lot to leak. If it's over the AC it's probably not the drive. Is that why they changed the therm gasket? because it was anti
F and not oil?
Are the plugs dirty or is there oil in the plug galley? Are the plugs and wires new or just OK. 18 months for a dirty fuel tank is too long for the filter. Remove the filter and cut it open to see IF it is dirty inside.
I would do the work myself, but im back in school and the engine is a pain to do anything with. They replaced a thermostat and put the belt back on. The car goes back into the shop friday, they are going to check if the belt isnt on right or if the cams are off. They also said it could be tranny or gas fuel filter.. which i know it isnt. The fuel filter is 18 months old and the tranny is a different feel when it is not being happy. I believe the shop knows whats up, the mechanics seem very with it and not exactly out to get me. I think the new oil leak is something to do with a seal or valve that didnt get put back right.
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 22
They changed the therm just because they were in there. I have no idea which belt they put back on. The car goes into the shop friday, and they are gonna check the cam timings then the other things. The oil leak it has now is a different leak than the original one. The car has not leaked anit-F since the water pump went out about 3 months ago. what plugs r u talking about? And the filter shouldn't be dirty, the original lasted 60k miles so the new one i put on outa last another 60k.
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 33
Thought you said U had an oil leak above a/c ??? power steer resev./ hose, valve cover, not too much to oil leak, head gasket?
? Plugs... spark plugs and wires. If you have a "shudder"/miss spark plugs and wires MIGHT cause it to misfire.
Change fuel filter? You ran the first one 60K but you did not have a problem. NOW you have a problem. You need to eliminate the easy probs to find the one thats causing the misfire.
Which belt they change MIGHT determine what the prob is. IF they did NOT change the timing belt then it is probably OK BUT should be looked at. If they only changed the serpentine belt thats an easy fix.
You should know which belt they changed by how much money you spent.
Was it $100 or $500?
? Plugs... spark plugs and wires. If you have a "shudder"/miss spark plugs and wires MIGHT cause it to misfire.
Change fuel filter? You ran the first one 60K but you did not have a problem. NOW you have a problem. You need to eliminate the easy probs to find the one thats causing the misfire.
Which belt they change MIGHT determine what the prob is. IF they did NOT change the timing belt then it is probably OK BUT should be looked at. If they only changed the serpentine belt thats an easy fix.
You should know which belt they changed by how much money you spent.
Was it $100 or $500?
snip..
I have no idea which belt they put back on. The car goes into the shop friday, they are gonna check cam timings then the other things. The oil leak it has now is a different leak than the original one. The car has not leaked anit-F since the water pump went out about 3 months ago. what plugs r u talking about? And the filter shouldn't be dirty, the original lasted 60k miles so the new one i put on outa last another 60k.
I have no idea which belt they put back on. The car goes into the shop friday, they are gonna check cam timings then the other things. The oil leak it has now is a different leak than the original one. The car has not leaked anit-F since the water pump went out about 3 months ago. what plugs r u talking about? And the filter shouldn't be dirty, the original lasted 60k miles so the new one i put on outa last another 60k.