Repair Guide: Timing Belt Info on the 3.4 LQ
I am currently working on replacing the timing belt on my 3.4 DOHC.
The problem I am having is getting the Camshaft sprockets off/loosened up. I have the 15mm socket (1/2" drive) and a big breaker bar, but can't get them loose. Have tried spraying with WD40, still no go. Engine is in the car and don't want to pull it out if at all possible. Anyone have any ideas on how to get the Cam sprocket bolts out???????
Thanks in Advance
OldHatt45
The problem I am having is getting the Camshaft sprockets off/loosened up. I have the 15mm socket (1/2" drive) and a big breaker bar, but can't get them loose. Have tried spraying with WD40, still no go. Engine is in the car and don't want to pull it out if at all possible. Anyone have any ideas on how to get the Cam sprocket bolts out???????
Thanks in Advance
OldHatt45
I had a similar problem. I believe the PO used an air wrench to tighten the bolts. One was rounded. I welded a larger nut to the bolt head in order to turn the bolt. I replaced all bolts with new. Once removed, I had difficulty removing the "lock washer". It's possible the belt is allowing the extra torque you apply to the bolt to be dissipated thru belt stretch. Do you have the holding devise for the sprockets? I might require two people to hold and turn. You shouldn't need to remove engine.
I am currently working on replacing the timing belt on my 3.4 DOHC.
The problem I am having is getting the Camshaft sprockets off/loosened up. I have the 15mm socket (1/2" drive) and a big breaker bar, but can't get them loose. Have tried spraying with WD40, still no go. Engine is in the car and don't want to pull it out if at all possible. Anyone have any ideas on how to get the Cam sprocket bolts out???????
Thanks in Advance
OldHatt45
The problem I am having is getting the Camshaft sprockets off/loosened up. I have the 15mm socket (1/2" drive) and a big breaker bar, but can't get them loose. Have tried spraying with WD40, still no go. Engine is in the car and don't want to pull it out if at all possible. Anyone have any ideas on how to get the Cam sprocket bolts out???????
Thanks in Advance
OldHatt45
G-Man
Thanks for the reply.
Well, I did the WD-40 routine a few times and only 1 bolt had a problem, but I used an electric impact wrench and that got it loose. The other 3 bolts came out with a lot of grunting and a pipe on the end of the wrench. LOL.
Got the Cam sprockets off by using WD-40 and a pair of chisels behind the sprockets and small taps on the chisels, wiggling, tapping, and repeat.
Pain in the butt, but I got them off.
Now, I found that the Camshaft Tensioner Hydraulic Actuator has a couple of small pin holes in the rubber boot. I can't find a replacement.
Anyone know where I can find one???
Thanks,
OldHatt45
Thanks for the reply.
Well, I did the WD-40 routine a few times and only 1 bolt had a problem, but I used an electric impact wrench and that got it loose. The other 3 bolts came out with a lot of grunting and a pipe on the end of the wrench. LOL.
Got the Cam sprockets off by using WD-40 and a pair of chisels behind the sprockets and small taps on the chisels, wiggling, tapping, and repeat.
Pain in the butt, but I got them off.
Now, I found that the Camshaft Tensioner Hydraulic Actuator has a couple of small pin holes in the rubber boot. I can't find a replacement.
Anyone know where I can find one???
Thanks,
OldHatt45
I believe the rubber boot is only available w/ the tensioner. If you find a source please reply to this thread. Re-read page three of this thread. I describe how the actuator is set to re-indstall. There should be two rubber plugs; one w/ a hole for the paper clip. Be certain the plugs are in the correct location. Practice a few times before you need to install. There is at least one "pin hole" in the boot to insert the papaerclip.
Hey G-Man,
Yup, I found the Cam Tensioner Hyd Assy. I called my local Chevy Dealer (and also a Buick Dealer) and they both said they could get them for the next day (today). The Buick Dealer was $10.00 more than the Chevy Dealer. Cost is $114.xx. So, hopefully I will have it today. Also, both parts guys said it was actually termed as being the Hydraulic Camshaft Tensioner Actuator.
Now, about the holes. The rubber cap on the end of the old one came off, just like the instructions. THe one that you stick the paper clip in has no hole in it and doesn't seem to want to come out. I actually looked at it under a magnifying glass to make sure i didn't miss seeing a hole. Suggestions????
Last thing (I think). How much Oil should the Actuator take??? Doesn't seem like it will take much. Not even enough to fill a thimble. Any idea?
Thanks Again,
OldHatt45
Yup, I found the Cam Tensioner Hyd Assy. I called my local Chevy Dealer (and also a Buick Dealer) and they both said they could get them for the next day (today). The Buick Dealer was $10.00 more than the Chevy Dealer. Cost is $114.xx. So, hopefully I will have it today. Also, both parts guys said it was actually termed as being the Hydraulic Camshaft Tensioner Actuator.
Now, about the holes. The rubber cap on the end of the old one came off, just like the instructions. THe one that you stick the paper clip in has no hole in it and doesn't seem to want to come out. I actually looked at it under a magnifying glass to make sure i didn't miss seeing a hole. Suggestions????
Last thing (I think). How much Oil should the Actuator take??? Doesn't seem like it will take much. Not even enough to fill a thimble. Any idea?
Thanks Again,
OldHatt45
Last edited by OldHatt45; Mar 22, 2012 at 07:18 AM. Reason: More Info
I picked up the new Cam Tensioner Hyd Assy (Actuator) today. It came in the retracted position. The parts guy said it was already filled with oil, so I did not have to do that part of the procedure.
The Actuator and the tensioner pulley wnet on the way they were supposed to. The old tensioner, was definately shot! It wasn't holding tension on the timing belt.
Got most of the engine put back together. Timing BELT went on nicely, then I timed the cams per the instructions. Made sure to rotate the crankshaft to seat the belt. 2 full revolutions of the crankshaft.
Got the rear plugs in and then put the new base gasket on between the manifold and throttle boy plenum. You definately need a pair of long handled needle nose to put the clamp on that is under the plenum!!!!
What a pain that is.
So hopefully I can finish up tomorrow. Do have one more question.
The car has been sitting for a while and I thought about the old fuel. Thought i would drain the gas tank, but none of the manuals show where the "Evap" line is. That's how they say to drain the tank. Using a hand pump and sucking it out the Evap line. Also thought about replacing the in line fuel filter. Any tips or thoughts on that?
Thanks in advance
OldHatt45
The Actuator and the tensioner pulley wnet on the way they were supposed to. The old tensioner, was definately shot! It wasn't holding tension on the timing belt.
Got most of the engine put back together. Timing BELT went on nicely, then I timed the cams per the instructions. Made sure to rotate the crankshaft to seat the belt. 2 full revolutions of the crankshaft.
Got the rear plugs in and then put the new base gasket on between the manifold and throttle boy plenum. You definately need a pair of long handled needle nose to put the clamp on that is under the plenum!!!!
What a pain that is.
So hopefully I can finish up tomorrow. Do have one more question.
The car has been sitting for a while and I thought about the old fuel. Thought i would drain the gas tank, but none of the manuals show where the "Evap" line is. That's how they say to drain the tank. Using a hand pump and sucking it out the Evap line. Also thought about replacing the in line fuel filter. Any tips or thoughts on that?
Thanks in advance
OldHatt45
What is "THAT is inder the plenum"?
Why not connect before plenum install?
How long sitting and how much gas in tank?
Evap line is at the tank opening?
Can you pump fuel out thru gas filler?
In-line filter reqiures the low cost fuel line tool; same one you used at the engine. Very easy. You should replace the filter maybe add new gas to what is in the tank. I've added carb/injector cleaner. It depends on how old the gas is.
Why not connect before plenum install?
How long sitting and how much gas in tank?
Evap line is at the tank opening?
Can you pump fuel out thru gas filler?
In-line filter reqiures the low cost fuel line tool; same one you used at the engine. Very easy. You should replace the filter maybe add new gas to what is in the tank. I've added carb/injector cleaner. It depends on how old the gas is.
snip...
Got the rear plugs in and then put the new base gasket on between the manifold and throttle boy plenum. You definately need a pair of long handled needle nose to put the clamp on that is under the plenum!!!!
What a pain that is.
snip.... car has been sitting for a while and thought about the old fuel. Thought i would drain the gas tank, but none of the manuals show where the "Evap" line is. That's how they say to drain the tank. Using a hand pump and sucking it out the Evap line. Also thought about replacing the in line fuel filter. Any tips or thoughts on that?
Thanks in advance
OldHatt45
Got the rear plugs in and then put the new base gasket on between the manifold and throttle boy plenum. You definately need a pair of long handled needle nose to put the clamp on that is under the plenum!!!!
What a pain that is.
snip.... car has been sitting for a while and thought about the old fuel. Thought i would drain the gas tank, but none of the manuals show where the "Evap" line is. That's how they say to drain the tank. Using a hand pump and sucking it out the Evap line. Also thought about replacing the in line fuel filter. Any tips or thoughts on that?
Thanks in advance
OldHatt45




