Repair Guide: Timing Belt Info on the 3.4 LQ
#21
02-27-2011, 12:48 PM
Outstanding post. This has saved me a huge headache with having to buy a $300 timing belt kit.
So this is my problem:
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I blew a head gasket and decided to just replace every seal and gasket from valve cover to the head gasket. I started with the 135 side and finished just fine no problems. I started yesterday on the 246 side with a huge headache because of the exhaust mani. I had to remove it from the main pipe because I just couldn't get a tool in there to remove the nuts from that Mani. So I started to remove the head bolts and noticed that It wouldn't come out. So I inspected the head and noticed that there were 2 bolts that held the Actuator side plate in place. I removed the first one just fine but ran into the second one -which was over tightened - and discovered that it was stripped to the point where I couldn't take it out. Do you by any chance know the part number to those 2 bolts? I really need to replace them.
So this is my problem:
------------------------------------
I blew a head gasket and decided to just replace every seal and gasket from valve cover to the head gasket. I started with the 135 side and finished just fine no problems. I started yesterday on the 246 side with a huge headache because of the exhaust mani. I had to remove it from the main pipe because I just couldn't get a tool in there to remove the nuts from that Mani. So I started to remove the head bolts and noticed that It wouldn't come out. So I inspected the head and noticed that there were 2 bolts that held the Actuator side plate in place. I removed the first one just fine but ran into the second one -which was over tightened - and discovered that it was stripped to the point where I couldn't take it out. Do you by any chance know the part number to those 2 bolts? I really need to replace them.
#22
02-28-2011, 08:22 PM
The two bolts are Allen head/socket head bolts and hold an aluminium "filler' plate to the head from the timing belt chamber. Also the timing belt adjustor pulley is attached to the filler plate. I believe they are #50 Torx. The P/N is 11514317 . There is a similar if not identical bolt which holds the engine hoist bracket to the head at the timing chamber. This one is covered by a rubber plug. There are also two bolts that hold the steel acuator plate/cover to the chamber. I believe they are regular 13mm bolts.P/N 11515757 .
The timing belt chamber should be very clean w/ no oil or belt dust/material inside. Oil and specifically power steering fluid from the resevoir above the chamber will deteriorate the belt material possibly removing cogs form the belt very quickly. I used brake clean spray to sanitzed the chamber; looks like new.
The timing belt chamber should be very clean w/ no oil or belt dust/material inside. Oil and specifically power steering fluid from the resevoir above the chamber will deteriorate the belt material possibly removing cogs form the belt very quickly. I used brake clean spray to sanitzed the chamber; looks like new.
Outstanding post. This has saved me a huge headache with having to buy a $300 timing belt kit.
So this is my problem:
------------------------------------
I blew a head gasket and decided to just replace every seal and gasket from valve cover to the head gasket. I started with the 135 side and finished just fine no problems. I started yesterday on the 246 side with a huge headache because of the exhaust mani. I had to remove it from the main pipe because I just couldn't get a tool in there to remove the nuts from that Mani. So I started to remove the head bolts and noticed that It wouldn't come out. So I inspected the head and noticed that there were 2 bolts that held the Actuator side plate in place. I removed the first one just fine but ran into the second one -which was over tightened - and discovered that it was stripped to the point where I couldn't take it out. Do you by any chance know the part number to those 2 bolts? I really need to replace them.
So this is my problem:
------------------------------------
I blew a head gasket and decided to just replace every seal and gasket from valve cover to the head gasket. I started with the 135 side and finished just fine no problems. I started yesterday on the 246 side with a huge headache because of the exhaust mani. I had to remove it from the main pipe because I just couldn't get a tool in there to remove the nuts from that Mani. So I started to remove the head bolts and noticed that It wouldn't come out. So I inspected the head and noticed that there were 2 bolts that held the Actuator side plate in place. I removed the first one just fine but ran into the second one -which was over tightened - and discovered that it was stripped to the point where I couldn't take it out. Do you by any chance know the part number to those 2 bolts? I really need to replace them.
Last edited by G-man; 02-28-2011 at 08:54 PM.
#23
03-01-2011, 01:38 PM
Your a life saver! Thank you for the advice. I'll make sure that I clean it before finishing the installation. Once again, Thank you. Its hard to find information for these cars now a days.
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The two bolts are Allen head/socket head bolts and hold an aluminium "filler' plate to the head from the timing belt chamber. Also the timing belt adjustor pulley is attached to the filler plate. I believe they are #50 Torx. The P/N is 11514317 . There is a similar if not identical bolt which holds the engine hoist bracket to the head at the timing chamber. This one is covered by a rubber plug. There are also two bolts that hold the steel acuator plate/cover to the chamber. I believe they are regular 13mm bolts.P/N 11515757 .
The timing belt chamber should be very clean w/ no oil or belt dust/material inside. Oil and specifically power steering fluid from the resevoir above the chamber will deteriorate the belt material possibly removing cogs form the belt very quickly. I used brake clean spray to sanitzed the chamber; looks like new.
The timing belt chamber should be very clean w/ no oil or belt dust/material inside. Oil and specifically power steering fluid from the resevoir above the chamber will deteriorate the belt material possibly removing cogs form the belt very quickly. I used brake clean spray to sanitzed the chamber; looks like new.
#24
03-09-2011, 09:41 PM
So I just wanted to post what I just discovered on my Monte. Now I have to replace the Balance shaft. Theres suppose to be a shaft sticking out on top, but instead there's a broken one.
How long would it take to remove this engine?
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How long would it take to remove this engine?
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Last edited by chopper_257; 03-09-2011 at 09:50 PM. Reason: Adding Picture
#25
05-02-2011, 07:56 PM
so i have a question, there is a nipple coming off of what i think would be the balnce shaft valley, does anyone know what get hooked up to that im not remembering i forgot to take pics during tear down
Last edited by Zmonte34; 05-03-2011 at 01:16 AM. Reason: new ?
#26
06-06-2011, 11:58 PM
The nipple in the balance shaft valley??
Is that the rectangular plate under the intake manifold?
IF yes, I believe it might be the "positive crankcase vent" outlet. There is a long metal tube, possibly P/N 24505553 w/ black rubber(hard due to heat) ell running under intake from left/pass. to right/driver. It turns rearward and connects to the PCV valve at the rear bank of cylinders. It's $50 retail. I used a hose to connect the nipple to the tube rather than the rubber ell.
Is that the rectangular plate under the intake manifold?
IF yes, I believe it might be the "positive crankcase vent" outlet. There is a long metal tube, possibly P/N 24505553 w/ black rubber(hard due to heat) ell running under intake from left/pass. to right/driver. It turns rearward and connects to the PCV valve at the rear bank of cylinders. It's $50 retail. I used a hose to connect the nipple to the tube rather than the rubber ell.
#27
06-19-2011, 02:32 PM
INSTALLING THE TIMING BELT ACTUATOR:
Previous mechanic removed the timing belt actuator to install the new belt. Upon inspection it appears , he also installed the small rubber plugs in the incorrect holes. (I could be wrong as I have nothing to compare to.. If others have removed the actuator, post to forum the position of the rubber plugs; with and without the hole) The actuator must be compressed /shortened to install into place. I removed the end/bottom rubber plug. Use a small screwdriver turning clockwisae to competely compress the ball end. It is spring loaded. Turn and hold the unit..then turn more. I used a vise to assist with the ball at one jaw and the bottom at the other but allowing me to continue to turn the screwdriver. DO NOT USE THE VISE TO COMPRESS THE UNIT; ONLY AS AN ASSIST! You can feel the screwdriver will not turn further once the unit is FULLY compressed. Next, use a straightend STANDARD paperclip installed into the small hole of the vent/side rubber plug. Be certain to insert the clip far enough to "hold" the unit fully compressed. Once it is fully compressd, it needs to be filled with 5W30 oil. I used a small syringe from drug store. Replace the rubber plug. The fully compressed timing belt actuator can be installed in the tapered bushing in the belt chamber. Install the plate an bolts. Remove the paper clip and tension the adjutable pulley. Whether you replace the belt or not, be certain the timing belt chamber is CLEAN of rubber debris, oil etc. I used brake clean and paper towel to clean the chamber as new. Cogged timing belts do NOT like oil. They deteriorate very quickly with oil. In my engine, the previous owner failed to repair the power steering pump high pressures connection. PS fluid leaked into the belt chamber and that required to new belt, leading to all the other problems from an incompetent mechanic... probably without a Chev. service manual. I manually turned the engine clock wise to seat the belt. Next is setting the cams at top dead center.
Previous mechanic removed the timing belt actuator to install the new belt. Upon inspection it appears , he also installed the small rubber plugs in the incorrect holes. (I could be wrong as I have nothing to compare to.. If others have removed the actuator, post to forum the position of the rubber plugs; with and without the hole) The actuator must be compressed /shortened to install into place. I removed the end/bottom rubber plug. Use a small screwdriver turning clockwisae to competely compress the ball end. It is spring loaded. Turn and hold the unit..then turn more. I used a vise to assist with the ball at one jaw and the bottom at the other but allowing me to continue to turn the screwdriver. DO NOT USE THE VISE TO COMPRESS THE UNIT; ONLY AS AN ASSIST! You can feel the screwdriver will not turn further once the unit is FULLY compressed. Next, use a straightend STANDARD paperclip installed into the small hole of the vent/side rubber plug. Be certain to insert the clip far enough to "hold" the unit fully compressed. Once it is fully compressd, it needs to be filled with 5W30 oil. I used a small syringe from drug store. Replace the rubber plug. The fully compressed timing belt actuator can be installed in the tapered bushing in the belt chamber. Install the plate an bolts. Remove the paper clip and tension the adjutable pulley. Whether you replace the belt or not, be certain the timing belt chamber is CLEAN of rubber debris, oil etc. I used brake clean and paper towel to clean the chamber as new. Cogged timing belts do NOT like oil. They deteriorate very quickly with oil. In my engine, the previous owner failed to repair the power steering pump high pressures connection. PS fluid leaked into the belt chamber and that required to new belt, leading to all the other problems from an incompetent mechanic... probably without a Chev. service manual. I manually turned the engine clock wise to seat the belt. Next is setting the cams at top dead center.
Thank you for the reply.
Up to speed. Towed the '97 to a shop. With my assistance, they discovered engine out of time.. BOTH sets of cams pointed UP. Previous mechanic in Colorado installed a new belt with bank $2 180 degress out of phase. This confirms the previous owner lied as to the "runs perfect" statement. Engine was running on the bank #1 cylinders. Delphi wires were probably arcing because of the out of phase bank #2. New shop could not determine how to properly time; would have made the same mistake. Estimated $2800 to remove, repair and replace "bent valve" heads w/ a $750 gasket set! $2000 to replace my 90,000 mile motor w/ boneyard motor w/ 180,000 miles. I purchase a second/backup_parts motor from a boneyard for $200 delivered. They said engine was listed as 'not riuning". Belt was intact and timed and engine turned over manually. Probably an electric or fuel pump failure on vehicle; engine is good. Towed car home, removed both heads from original engine. Had a pro-shop refurbish both heads; no bent valves as the bank #2 was 180 degreses off (bank #1 was also slightly mis-timed to the crank). Cost to refurbish heads approx $500. IF belt breaks allowing freewheel the valves would/could be damaged. Purchased a Victor gasket set from pro-shop for under $300. Possibly the Fel Pro gasket set is a better choice from O'Reilly's for about same price. Heads installed, cam chamber on #2 installed. Minnesota winter set in. Too cold too much snow.
Up to speed. Towed the '97 to a shop. With my assistance, they discovered engine out of time.. BOTH sets of cams pointed UP. Previous mechanic in Colorado installed a new belt with bank $2 180 degress out of phase. This confirms the previous owner lied as to the "runs perfect" statement. Engine was running on the bank #1 cylinders. Delphi wires were probably arcing because of the out of phase bank #2. New shop could not determine how to properly time; would have made the same mistake. Estimated $2800 to remove, repair and replace "bent valve" heads w/ a $750 gasket set! $2000 to replace my 90,000 mile motor w/ boneyard motor w/ 180,000 miles. I purchase a second/backup_parts motor from a boneyard for $200 delivered. They said engine was listed as 'not riuning". Belt was intact and timed and engine turned over manually. Probably an electric or fuel pump failure on vehicle; engine is good. Towed car home, removed both heads from original engine. Had a pro-shop refurbish both heads; no bent valves as the bank #2 was 180 degreses off (bank #1 was also slightly mis-timed to the crank). Cost to refurbish heads approx $500. IF belt breaks allowing freewheel the valves would/could be damaged. Purchased a Victor gasket set from pro-shop for under $300. Possibly the Fel Pro gasket set is a better choice from O'Reilly's for about same price. Heads installed, cam chamber on #2 installed. Minnesota winter set in. Too cold too much snow.
Last edited by G-man; 06-19-2011 at 11:32 PM. Reason: typo
#28
06-22-2011, 09:00 PM
I was not aware the Z-34 had a balance shaft. Your photo is a little fuzzy. Is it possible the "balance shaft' is the cam shaft?
The Z-34 uses a "blank" cam driven from the crank with a chain to run the oil pump at the rear of the engine.
Did the shaft break OR is the gear broke? You might have to remove the engine to install a new shaft.
The Z-34 uses a "blank" cam driven from the crank with a chain to run the oil pump at the rear of the engine.
Did the shaft break OR is the gear broke? You might have to remove the engine to install a new shaft.
#29
07-01-2011, 06:33 PM
So I was able to finally replace my balance shaft but now have run into a broken Woodruff Key. Unfortunately nobody I've gone to so far has the correct size. Does anyone have a part number for the Harmonic balancer? Maybe I could find one that brings it.
Thanks.
Thanks.