what does it mean by puting oil in the actuator tks lumina man

 

did you have to oil the timing actuator

 

There is a procedure to reoiling the actuator in a post at another GM 3.4 V-6 website. It involves compressing and oiling it and installing the actuator pin. I recommend replaceing it. The GM part # is in my original post.

 

I have my knocking 1995 3.4 dohc monte on an engine stand looking at the two spun rod bearings.

The journals are 2" and the two spun journals (first two back from crank pulley) have readings as low as 2.938".

I need to pull the crank and have it ground, but I would rather not have to disturb the timing belt. Is this possible?

I have not removed any covers off the front of the engine to see if this is even mechanically possible...I am a sbc cummins guy.

Thanks for any help,

 

The timing belt drive pulley is run off the dummy cam, which is just a blank cam where the cam would be in an OHV engine. There is a "timing chain" from the crank to the dummy cam. I would say remove the crank pulley and balancer and see if you can get the chain and sprocket off the crank without removing the timing belt. You probably will need to remove the timing belt and timing belt drive pulley to be able the get the chain off in order to remove the crank. You will need to re-time the engine though which requires tearing down the top end down to the cam carriers. If you are going to dig that deep, you may as well just remove the timing belt and save yourself the trouble of working around it. It should be really easy to do with the engine out of the car.

 

I have decided to remove the belt and pull the aluminum housing off the front of the engine to access the chain for removal. My question is when rolling the motor around the cam flats where hold downs are installed are never in the up position at the same time.

The car would run good before engine removal so I cant imagine why my cam flats are so far out of sequence.

Also, what about the intermediate cam sprocket alignment are there marks to use that confirms TDC on #1?

 

The cam flats are never all up or down. When timed correctly, if the 2 left cam flats are up, then the right flats will be 180 degrees out facing down and vice versa. Disregard the marks on the Intermediate sprocket. When the engine is at top dead Ctr, #1 thats when the first cam banks get set, then the cam hold down locks get removed and the engine gets turned 1 full revolution and the other cam bank is set. The end result will be when properly timed ( 1 set flats up-- 1 set flats down) but get a manual that shows the whole procedure. The above mentioned is a General understanding of how this engine is set up. You cant do just one paticular area of the timing of this engine without taking it all apart and starting fresh. Hope this helps you,,,, Gs-Z Gary

 

Gs-Z to clarify. TDC is first for cylinder #1; rear bank #1 and in compression. Correct? Cam lock is installed w/ timing belt not installed. Install timing belt. Rotate 360. Front bank is then set with cams "flat".
How is the front bank timed with timing belt installed and tight?

If the belt is removed/loosened to set front bank do the rear bank cams move as the are under spring tension?
Are there flats on both sides of the cams?
I have a '97 w/ 91,000. Seller said engine ran "perfect" on Wednesday the 28th. Car was trsansported folowing Monday, the 2nd. Transport driver mentioned a rough idle. Car ran rough on Wednesday the 4th would not start on Monday 8th.
Flooded plugs, defective FPR, Brand new general purpose Delphi wires with copper strand protruding from coil cap (defect wire set) and general arcing from coil boots (7mm replacement from O'Reilly $27; 8mm Electrospark Magnecor $112).
Seller finally admitted new timing belt installed a week before transport because as there were "7 cogs missing due to P/S oil" comtamination from resevoir.
FYI: seller neglected to repair a P/S hose , reefed the hydraulic fitting on the resvoir for over 10,000 mile evidenced by repair receipt comments at
80,000 miles. Continued to carelessly add steering oil, spilling oil onto timing belt. Upon inspection, bank 2 cyl #2 at TDC showed cam flats tilted forward; so they are ATDC. New timing belt showed signs of edge degredation/wear in two weeks.
Can a timing belt slip? IF oil actuator is defective? Belt is currently tight. Also small "backfires possibly due to flooding and defective FPR.
Is the "timing chain" timed as with old style cam gear?

 

The Cam Sprockets have to all be loose. Then the belt can be tight and the crank can rotate with the sprockets , but the cams will not move until the sprocket bolts are tight. Then Yes start Top dead #1 Compression stroke. when first bank is set and the cam bolts are tight, then remove the cam locks from that side, Turn motor one 360 at the crank, and then set the other side and lock. Then you will notice the other banks cam flats will face down. Like i have mentioned in these posts, Get the All Data print out on this procedure. Its very difficult to post every detail accuratly online. Hope this answers your Question, Sorry for taking so long to post as I have has some personal issues keeping me from getting time to post. Hope your LQ is back up and running. G

 

Thank you for the reply.
Up to speed. Towed the '97 to a shop. With my assistance, they discovered engine out of time.. BOTH sets of cams pointed UP. Previous mechanic in Colorado installed a new belt with bank $2 180 degress out of phase. This confirms the previous owner lied as to the "runs perfect" statement. Engine was running on the bank #1 cylinders. Delphi wires were probably arcing because of the out of phase bank #2. New shop could not determine how to properly time; would have made the same mistake. Estimated $2800 to remove, repair and replace "bent valve" heads w/ a $750 gasket set! $2000 to replace my 90,000 mile motor w/ boneyard motor w/ 180,000 miles. I purchase a second/backup_parts motor from a boneyard for $200 delivered. They said engine was listed as 'not riuning". Belt was intact and timed and engine turned over manually. Probably an electric or fuel pump failure on vehicle; engine is good. Towed car home, removed both heads from original engine. Had a pro-shop refurbish both heads; no bent valves as the bank #2 was 180 degreses off (bank #1 was also slightly mis-timed to the crank). Cost to refurbish heads approx $500. IF belt breaks allowing freewheel the valves would/could be damaged. Purchased a Victor gasket set from pro-shop for under $300. Possibly the Fel Pro gasket set is a better choice from O'Reilly's for about same price. Heads installed, cam chamber on #2 installed. Minnesota winter set in. Too cold too much snow.