thats way to low there on hp cause if thats the case with my 04 cavalier stating 150 hp then it was actually less than 100 hp i doubt u could do much anything with that low of hp on cars.. and besides my numbers would still be higher than the mustang gt cause rear whel drive ur gonna loose much more hp than front wheel drive..heck a aveo with 103 hp im sure isnt driving around with only like 80hp uwouldnt even get up a driveway not like 23 more gonna help but still ur 20% lose gotta be way off let alone my dad being a car junkie having vettes in the 60's and his brothers muscle cars and him staying in the loop since he stated to me front wheel drive dont loose much speically compared to rear wheel.. and also im sure 220 hp would make my car pull to the left so much if that was the case..

 

Seriously, use some punctuation so people can read what you type- even a couple periods and some enters would help tremendously.

based on what? I've seen hundreds of dynos of vehicles with the 4t65 and 4t65hd, and they all back up the fact that it sucks up about 20%. A stock GP GT has "200 hp" stock, they put down ~160 whp through the 4t65. A stock GP GTP has "240 hp" stock, and puts down ~200 whp through a 4t65hd (like you have)- if you think I'm wrong about that- feel free to search for yourself.

So why would you think that putting a different engine behind it (LS4 instead of a 3800) would be any different? It is plausible that they underrated the engine from the factory- but the truth is, they did not. I've seen stock LS4s dyno anywhere from 230whp (on a tougher mustang dyno) to 250whp (on a dynojet that inflates numbers a pinch). I hate to break it to you- but I doubt you're gonna be the exception here.

Need more proof? How about other people with the same engine, including a dyno chart?

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8781888

I think your calculator is broken. 150 * 0.8 = 120 and
120 >> 100

 

Not necessarily true- they seem to dyno about the same if not a little higher than you,~250 whp from what I've seen. They may have underrated their engine a bit from the factory. Also keep in mind that they have a manual option too which sucks less power.

Well, they do- hate to break it to you. Its all about power to weight- and that is what you're missing.

http://www.tunercalcs.com/

Now plug in 80 wheel horsepower, and the 2500 lb curb weight (off the chevy website)- gives a 1/4 mile of ~18.3 which sounds about dead nuts on for that car. So much for not making it up the driveway...

Plus, you're comparing apples to oranges- no Aveo runs a 4t65, the lower power cars use smaller transmissions with weaker/lighter parts- so their auto may only suck 18% or 15% or something because the parts are much smaller- but I still don't put a base aveo running quicker than a high 17 second 1/4, which totally supports my theory.

Who are you going to believe- your dad who probably has never owned and dyno'd a wbody, or thethousands ofpeople who have dyno'd 4t65 vehicles and the handful that have dyno'd your EXACT setup?

I don't even understand what you're trying to say here- I said ~240 whp, and how do you measure whp with torque steer? That has more to do with your crappy suspension setup, and relatively overpowered fwd car than anything else.

 

hey everyone who is sayin cartunig has lack of customer support. i have been talking with kevin over there and we have been discussing me gettin the turbo kit. i have been told clearly multiple times that a shift kit will be sufficient conssidering you cant put the hammer down anyway. and he has put over three hundred turbos in the v-6s. which also run the same trans. the turbo gxp has put 3000 into the trans. but he was running 12 psi. the trans can handle 400 pretty good. go up to 450 with the shift kit, and could probably squeeze 500 with a bit of beefing up. id say 1000 would be sufficient into the trans. but the ksit from cartuning has a shift kit included, a eletric cutout, the alcohol injection and alot more. kevin is running 400whp in his car and said wiht the kit he has put 60000 miles on that trans no problems. so is it worht it........ im thinkin i might do it.
and there arent any superchargers that will fit this car... unless you wanna run no hood!

 

well whats best and safest way to gain 50 to 100 more hp.. since the new g8's are like 361 and the new mustanggt i read will be around 350 soon i wanna be able to compete(on the street/highway- and maybe few times next summer at the track)
Just wanna be able to be competiable for few yrs til i get enough side cash to store this for nice weather only car and get a fixer upper toy either 4th monte or something muscle carish from 70's and make that my weekend toy.. then in 2017 when im 40 ill get a camaro ss.. so til then i need to keep enough ***** in this monte for while..

 

the only thing that will end up costing you alot of money to build if you make big power numbers is the trans. (in know from exprience they get expencif fast )
but if you have a LS4 you can make power cheap enuf .
cams are everywhere just pick the one you want,and porting the stock heads will be good enuf as they are a good flowing head .unless you have the money to go all out and get aftermarket heads .(look in to A.F.R. they are a good head)
and i myself would get rid of the D.O.D (but that is just me )
and then you can runn any style intake you want with a bigger throttle body.
and then headers will be a must i dont think anybody makes them yet so a little bit of fab. work is going to have to be made . (a little fabricating never hurt nobody)
and some tuning will have to be done to acomadate all the changes and that should give you close to 450-500 crank horse

 

he was saying that it was throwing 500 ish to the crank so your right there. the safest way to keep competing with the next mustang (im in th same position as you) would be to get the turbo. even if you remove the dod it wont matter in terms of raceing. its either on or off and its not like your going to go and race from a roll with it sittin in drive. if you do from say 30 keep it in 1 which will keep dod on and yod be cruisin at about 3500 rpm so you got a bit before you hit peak power then go 23d. im still looking for a trans rebuild kit that will beef it up a bit., cams nothing is really looking like it will help if you turbo. headers are fine, the kit comes with a eletric cut out so you wont need to worry much beyond the resonator. throttle body wont do much with the forced induction either. plus the kit is fit to the stock so i dont know how much different the kit would need to be.
i am seriously considering doing this some time after new years before i take it out of storage.
they actaully get your two onboard computers(you send them to them at cartunig) and they tune them for the turbo. im sure if you asked they have the capability to take dod off but like i said it wont do anything for you.

 

well the only reason i was saying about the D.O.D was i read somwhere that if you left it on the it limited your cam choice because it has to stay under a certain lift number to still work or somthing
oh and all the mod's i have listed above was for a N/A build if you want to boost just slap a kit on it and tune it !

 

oh ok i gotchya. i am looking to beef up the trans if i do get the kit. you know anyone who does a good rebuild kit(not just a shift kit)?

 

i was talking to the guys at level 10 transmission in new jersey can can build a wicked trans but it is pricey and them i was talking to jeff at engineered performance he can also build a good trans and there is Jim @ Jim's Performance Transmissions in Michigan
i looked at geting a performance rebuild with a shift kit and higher stall troque and a limited slip diff.and trans cooler
and to get it build i got prices form 2000-4000 $ but some of them will sell ya the parts to get it done your self or to get it done localy
i have the contact info for them if you want to get a hold of them just let me konw