has any one tunned a 04 monte carlo ss s/c with the hp tunner?? I have a tunner but i need a tune..

 

No one can give you a tune for your car, if they do- its gonna be no better than buying an off the shelf 'performance pcm' (which if thats what you wanted- you should've just bought that, its a lot cheaper).

If you have a tuner- then go tune it yourself. Spend a couple days reading and reading on how to use the tuner, and how to actually do a tune- and then go out and tune it. Its not that difficult once you get into it- but having someone actually drive/log, edit, flash, drive/log, edit, flash, etc etc etc is the only way to actually tune your car.

 

If you decide that you hate the hptuner, sell it to me.
I'll be in the market for one very soon (already am, but holding off to find used before buying new).
-Riggs.

 

I'm actually in the cross fire on another forum regarding the "correct" method of tuning with 4 people attacking each other and I'm just trying to sort it out.

Bumpin, can you give some insight to this as I know you've tuned before.

What is the correct proceedure?

1. Turn off injector disabling / set it to 255 MPH.
2. Prepare VE Tune: Copy Good Fuel Spark to Bad Fuel Spark table. Disconnect battery for 20 min, disconnect MAF, drive around easily at various speeds to get set LTFT and STFT. Scan, Look for KR, add fuel to those cells, flash, repeat till no KR.
3. MAF Tune: Reset Bad Fuel Spark to stock, Disco battery for 20 min, drive around easily till LTFT and STFT are close, Scan. Here I know I'm supposed to get LTFT's between 0 and -3. MAP readings between 35-50 at idle and 110 WOT without getting KR. I don't know what I'm supposed to modify and in what tables to do this though.
4. Tune O2's - I think I should be 925-940 with my mods in my sig and since I live in Wisconsin I might be able to goto 920-935. Once again I'm not sure what tables to use to do this.
5. Tune timing. - raise in good areas, pull if there are blips of KR.


Now I'm using an HP Tuners and I know you use DHP, but I would like to know what I'm to be changing without using Eddies program and if this is the correct order.

Any suggestions would be great.

 

Here's how I do mine:

1. Regular pre-tune mods- abuse mode settings, speed limiter settings, fan settings (if you have a 160/180 thermostat) etc etc

2. Bin prep for VE tune: PE enable TPS> all cells to 100%. Copy GFS to BFS. Unplug MAF. Flash tune (I can just have it reset the fuel trims here instead of disconnecting the battery to reset them).

3. Drive, restart, etc going up to ~75% throttle or so (or as high as I can go with no KR) until trims settle.

4. Tune the VE table (I use the Eddie table modifier personally)- repeating the cycle until I get LTFT's between 0 and -3 from idle up to as high of a MAP reading as I can get without getting KR (usually seems to be about 90-110 kpa, but it depends on the car's mods).

5. Plug the MAF back in, put the PE enable TPS % back to stock, put the BFS back to stock, reset trims- go back and drive- wait til trims settle, scan. I also adjust the PE enable %'s a little lower (~35% tps unless I'm getting a lot of KR down low- you want it to hit PE mode about the same throttle position as when you hit ~100 kpa MAP value). In this section, I usually do it the first time adjusting all fuel trims to get the whole thing closer, then I break it up and go by certain fuel trim cells (I usually go 1, then 4, then 2+3)- so that I'm only dealing with a small area of driving at a time and I can focus my scan and driving on that area. You can do this the same as before, just doing all cells at once- but I've found this easier. You should be adjusting the MAF airflow table here.

6. Once you get your -3 to 0 LTFT's , you're done.

7. Get the WOT O2's straightened out. On most basic bolt on L67's 930-945 has seemed to work well for me. If you live in a hotter or colder area- it will be different. Here are the way's I've seen to adjust O2's:

-adjust the "base pe A/f"
-adjust MAF flow in the 7000-11500 (or however high you go on the maf), but this is tricky because it MUST be a feathered change, you don't want MAF steps
-edit "pe rpm vs time" table at certain points (I use this if I'm getting a little burst knock after a few seconds at WOT- if the knock occurs at seemingly random rpm points that don't correspond to anything)
-adjut the 100kpa cell of the IFR table (I usually don't go over +10)

8. Timing adjustment. IMO, if you still have lots of knock at this point- you really need to consider getting more mods asap (or fixing any mechanical problems if there are ones). I've seen people with spot on fuel tables, and great O2's, still running 10* KR at WOT, and at that point- you really need to do more mods because your pulley is probably too small. I just hate retarding the heck out of the timing just to let the person run way too small a pulley for mods- its not a good way to go. Obviously, any major changes you make will require a retune (hence why I start considering this early on- and usually test drive the car 'as is' on the stock tune first to see if its even realistic to eliminate it with tuning alone).

I usually leave BFS stock, and only mod the GFS table (and adjust the MBTS table in the same ratio). I also tend to break this one up into certain rpm ranges as I make my changes (I usually do low load, medium load, high load- each time spanning the entire rpm range- and then drive around one last time varying rpm and load all over the normal spectrum to see where else I can improve it.



I think I covered most of my normal tuning routine. I'm definitely no tuning pro, so take my advice on that with a grain of salt- most of the cars I've tuned have been stock, or just basic bolt ons- the only heavily modded car I've tuned is my monte- and it seems like it is a good deal more difficult to tune heavily modded cars. The general process is still the same though.

 

Where can i get this program from preferrably for free i'll pay for the cable

 

lol, what?

what good would the program do w/o the box?

Have you already bought a tuner and it didn't come with the software or something?

 

no im not talking about like a hypertuner im talking about The VCM Editor its on 3800performance.com and i didnt know it had a box just thought it had a cable and software to hook up to a laptop like my buddies EVO

 

I'm not talking about a hypertech tuner either- we have two options for tuning our 3800s

-DHP Powrtuner (whose interface box looks like this):

http://www.myfreemods.com/images/DHPPowrTuner.jpg

-HPTuners (whose interface box looks like this):

http://image.chevyhiperformance.com/...m_software.jpg


Either way, the software isn't going to do you any good without an interface box- you don't go from the laptop to the car. Either way, it will cost you about $400-500 for a tuner.