thanx turbo...i do understand that the pcm will need to be re-tuned...my only issue is which pcm to actually use...the one for my l36 or the pcm from the l67 and compatability issues for my pcm

 

the bcm and gauges will all work fine. as for what file to run... it depends on if you are running the BBV solenoid and harness, and what trans you are running.

if you are not running the bbv solenoid and are running the trans from your 98 Z then you could use a L36 base file

if you are running a 4t65HD trans and the solenoid there is no diff at all from running a l67 based file.

I am using a L36 base file with the spark and fuel adjusted and adjusted to use the l67 map sensor.

what ever file you use i highly recommend having your own tuner or someone local to custom tune it. there are just too many variables to get a good mail order tune. then again i am top swapped and run the higher compression block.

as for the headers... yes it does take a good bit of cutting and pounding to get them in. i removed a 10 by 8 section of fire wall and used a hammer to pound the rest back. even still i have rubbing from the down pipe. but i still highly recommend doing it now while the engine is out as it will be near impossible to make the clearance needed once an engine and trans is in there. if you need pics i can get you some. bumpin's thread on his swap show how he modified the fire wall for his headers. his were pacesetters i used speed daddy and the clearance needed is different.

 

z34phoenix, thank you for your reply...i plan on using a 4t65ehd trans...with the mods i am going to use, i am hoping to get around 300whp, with zzp short stack intercooler and oversized rad and 180 t-stat...i do plan on running with the BBV solenoid...are you running your car with the l67 pcm or the l36 pcm? this has me scratching my head bigtime LOL...

 

i am using the same physical PCM as when i was running my L36. When i installed my top swap i just re-flashed the existing pcm. the file i am running in my pcm is also a l36 file since i am still running the stock trans.

If you are going to run the above, a PCM running L67 code will work fine. The L36 and L67's both use the same pcm it is just the file that is written to it that differs. as for the mods you are running... you will deff need custom tuning to make it all work properly and get the most out of your setup. I would look for someone local to help tune it. im sure there are plenty of people around. just search the forums for someone.

If you are shooting for the 300 hp mark, then headers are a must. as much as i love my speed daddy headers, the ground clearance sucks. I would suggest going with pacesetters or have the speed daddy's modified.

 

Thats actually helpful to me. I can get a set of pacesetters cheap but didnt know if they were a good idea

 

Thank you z34phoenix...i really appreciate your help...im hoping everything will just be a turn-key...i was planning on doing the top swap kit from zzp, but i can get a good used l67 w/ supercharger for $500...kind of a no-brainer there..im still comptemplating on using my current trans and install the hd kit or just get a good used 4t65e hd and go thru it...decisions decisions lol

 

FYI on he headers do not buy the obx or other copies of the pacesetters as these are known to be built incorrectly and will not fit without cutting and rewelding of the headers. Also since most pacesetters are not stainless a used set might not be in the best of shape.

As for the topswap kit... Yes it is overpriced and under delivers. Full engine or just topswapping your L36 is the way to go. As for the HD differential, very few destroy their diff's. the only times I have seen it happen are from people who do burnouts. The internals are the same otherwise. The gearing in the NA trans are better for power anyway.

 

i do like the gear ratio of the na l36...with the 3.29 ratio in my 98, and my 02 ss, it does launch pretty good... i do know that the stock 4t65e is good for up to about 300hp...im thinking with the set-up i am going to do, i will have about that and possibly then some...i rather do this while the engine is out...i prefer to drop the cradle with the engine and trans on jack stands...since i work at a shop, it's much easier to raise the vehicle on the lift, leaving the cradle assembly on the ground...i am thinking about purchasing the stainless headers from zzp...they are a lot of money, but are supposed to be of very good quality...