Running hot
#14
05-16-2012, 06:07 AM
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,188
- Pre-soak all exhaust manifold bolt with a product like PB Blaster (hit other "rusty" bolts too). It might help.
- Use Fel Pro aluminum LIM gaskets. I would also buy a Fel Pro head gasket. If you don't go Fel Pro, go with a trust worthy gasket/gasket manufacturer. Don't cheap out and get the cheap eBay stuff. It might be 100% fine, I honestly don't know, but IMO, do you want to do this job again any time soon because you cheaped out?
- Get a GOOD torque wrench. I personally would advise against a Harbor Freight torque wrench (in my limited experience, even though they claim to click, it's not very loud and you can very easily not notice it reached it's limit, plus I have heard it's not very accurate).
- I've put the push rods and rockers in baggies and labeled the bag as to there position (so I place them exactly back where they came from).
- CLEAN EVERYTHING! I used kerosene as a degreasing agent and a cheap paint brush. I also pressure washed the heads (you could do this at a car wash if you don't have a pressure wash). They were so clean when I was done, I think you could EAT off them. I also washed the rockers and the push rods (you can use an old pop bottle with a little amount of kerosene for the push rods, one at a time dip them in the bottle, swish it around).
- Make sure ALL head and LIM mating surfaces are as CLEAN as possible. If they aren't, you will regret it.
- Technically you should have the heads taken in to inspect for cracks and warps (usually a crack check is "magnaflux"). I never have. BUT, you can check easily for warping. Use straight edge and check the bottom (run that straight edge every way possible, check if anything between the head and the straight edge look out of whack).
- I wish I would have thought of this when I did the head gaskets on my '94 Grand Am, this would be an EASY time to pop on new valve seals while the heads are off (no fear of the valve dropping into the cylinder). But, I am riding on factory original valve seals at 220,000 miles, so not sure how BIG a deal that is.
- Consider a spark plug change, you have super easy access to them at this point.
- Take pictures with a digital camera of everything, label things, take your time.
- Use Fel Pro aluminum LIM gaskets. I would also buy a Fel Pro head gasket. If you don't go Fel Pro, go with a trust worthy gasket/gasket manufacturer. Don't cheap out and get the cheap eBay stuff. It might be 100% fine, I honestly don't know, but IMO, do you want to do this job again any time soon because you cheaped out?
- Get a GOOD torque wrench. I personally would advise against a Harbor Freight torque wrench (in my limited experience, even though they claim to click, it's not very loud and you can very easily not notice it reached it's limit, plus I have heard it's not very accurate).
- I've put the push rods and rockers in baggies and labeled the bag as to there position (so I place them exactly back where they came from).
- CLEAN EVERYTHING! I used kerosene as a degreasing agent and a cheap paint brush. I also pressure washed the heads (you could do this at a car wash if you don't have a pressure wash). They were so clean when I was done, I think you could EAT off them. I also washed the rockers and the push rods (you can use an old pop bottle with a little amount of kerosene for the push rods, one at a time dip them in the bottle, swish it around).
- Make sure ALL head and LIM mating surfaces are as CLEAN as possible. If they aren't, you will regret it.
- Technically you should have the heads taken in to inspect for cracks and warps (usually a crack check is "magnaflux"). I never have. BUT, you can check easily for warping. Use straight edge and check the bottom (run that straight edge every way possible, check if anything between the head and the straight edge look out of whack).
- I wish I would have thought of this when I did the head gaskets on my '94 Grand Am, this would be an EASY time to pop on new valve seals while the heads are off (no fear of the valve dropping into the cylinder). But, I am riding on factory original valve seals at 220,000 miles, so not sure how BIG a deal that is.
- Consider a spark plug change, you have super easy access to them at this point.
- Take pictures with a digital camera of everything, label things, take your time.
#16
05-16-2012, 02:57 PM
That's a very important step that most people forgot. When I did my LIM gaskets on the Intrigue, a one day project got drawn out into a three week ordeal. Having pictures and notes to reference while putting it back together was a lifesaver.
#17
05-22-2012, 03:30 PM
You seem to know what you are talking about. Please let me ask you this upon pulling off the distributor etc there was a hose from the breather to the top of the valve cover that had popped off, do you think this could be the problem??
#18
05-22-2012, 09:29 PM
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,188
This is from memory without looking at the engine... If I know the hose you are talking about, it plugs into the rear valve cover (just under the coil packs), comes up around the front drops into the air tube that leads to the throttle body? If we are talking about the same line, it has zero effect on engine temp. As I understand it's basically a vacuum line or pressure release. As for being loose, normally it's the grommet in the rear valve cover that wear out from heat and age and the line stops "holding" like it should. To be honest, my 3100 powered Grand Am (almost the same as the 3400) has had that line loose for years. No issues that I'm aware of.
BTW - These cars don't have distributors. They use a set of coil packs and an ignition control module (ICM) that sits underneath the coil packs.
How's the tear down going???
BTW - These cars don't have distributors. They use a set of coil packs and an ignition control module (ICM) that sits underneath the coil packs.
How's the tear down going???
#19
05-22-2012, 10:45 PM
this may help speed up tear down and reassembly Amazon.com: Lisle LI48500 Push Rod Remover: Automotive
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