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ORIGINAL: dustybird3

Dumb question alert.
When you switch to a synthetic from thecheap stuff, do you need to do anything special like change it sooner to get to old left-over residue out?
(hope that made sense)

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Hi Becky,[/align][align=center][/align][align=center][/align][align=center][/align][align=center][/align][align=center][/align][align=center][/align][align=center][/align][align=center][/align][center]
Over the years, Car Craft has tested many different types of engine components. A common theme underlying many of these tests is that bigger is not necessarily better, especially on the street. But just as many continue to believe in rad cams and giant carbs, traditional, thick, single-viscosity oils still have a strong following among car-crafting traditionalists.
Of course, high-viscosity oils don't flow well at low temperatures. In the old days, guys living in cold climates put in a thinner oil for the winter with a "W" or cold temperature-viscosity rating. Although they poured better at low temperatures, straight-viscosity "W" oils, in turn, didn't do a good job of protecting high-performance engines once they reached normal operating temperatures, so they weren't recommended for sustained high-speed driving. The oil industry developed "all-season" multiviscosity oils to solve the problem, but some of the early products didn't hold up under heavy-duty operating conditions, tainting the reputation of multiviscosity lubricants among many Car Crafters to this day.
Yet today's modern oils are vastly improved over those of 20 years ago. For oils that meet the current "SJ" service designation, viscosity breakdown is no longer a significant problem, thanks to modern formulation technologies and viscosity enhancers. Auto manufacturers have also redesigned their engines for tighter clearances and instituted precision machining techniques that take advantage of thinner oil to deliver improved fuel economy through reduced friction.
Like the OEMs, racers have discovered that fr

 

The main reason I put lucas in the engin it avoid the dry start condition. And to date the last engine in The Hell Beast had about 300,000 on it and was still running when I pulled it. The previous owners alway used 1 qt of lucas when they change the oil. Also the only internal part to be replace in the 300,000 miles was the cam.

Space that was a good find.

 

I'm a Mobile 1 guy, Royal Purple is supposed to be good, but as stated before it isn't being used by any auto groups that I've seen.

 

I am having the Pontiac dealer put in Mobil 1 EP before we pick up the new Solstice GXP tomarrow. It has 1,100 miles on it.
New Corvettes come from the factory with Mobil 1 in them, and if you use anything else, it will void the warranty!. That's another reason I use Mobil 1, and the Extended Performance oil has twice the "Super Syn" as the regular Mobil 1.

 

If any wants to check out the Mobil 1 site online,it will answer most questions in the FAQ section. I have been using Mobil 1 sincewhen it first came out and have used it in gas as well as diesel vehicles. I noticed that over the years when taking apart the engines for stuff like head gaskets or valve coversI noticed 0% sludge anywhere. And almost no wear on engines with over 100,000 miles on them.I usually change it between 4 and 5 thousand miles along with filter.

 

i've mentioned this before, you can probably just search it, that the pressure wieghts the oils break down @ and mobil 1 was almost as bad as conventional regular oil, royal purple being the best,

 

i know that some guyz say that mobil one is the only one gm approves, BUT royal purple assures its customers that if the problem was caused by oil then they will stand behind it, if it wasnt then the dealership HAS TO COVER it no if ands or buts