I have a security light coming on my dash. I do not have the original key but before I replaced my engine I never had any issues. Replaced the engine I have everything hooked up. New battery and I had the starter tested and it is all good. I connected the 2 terminals for the starter and then all of a sudden my dim lights came on and a clicking noise appeared. This also happens when I turn the key but I thought it was weird that it did it right when I hooked the starter up. I’ve seen videos of people bypassing certain security feature through the settings in the radio and I’ve also seen people turn the key remove the ignition switch fuse then plug it back in and crank it over plan on trying those next but didn’t know if anyone else has had a similar issue. The key I do have is all metal and is the only key I got from the previous owner. Never had any issues with that key until now but figured it’s worth mentioning just incase that has something to do with it. I also have not started this motor since it was in the other vehicle so I might try jumping the starter just to see if the vehicle will run but I also don’t want to freak the computer out. I also did test my power to the starter with a multimeter and it is sending power when my ground is on the battery. Which is what led me to believe it might be something with the ignition switch. Thank you guys for always giving feedback. It’s made this motor replacement (my first motor swap/replacement ever) a whole lot easier! The car just clicks when I turn it over. No crank.

 

I have a security light coming on my dash. I do not have the original key but before I replaced my engine I never had any issues. Replaced the engine I have everything hooked up. New battery and I had the starter tested and it is all good. I connected the 2 terminals for the starter and then all of a sudden my dim lights came on and a clicking noise appeared. This also happens when I turn the key but I thought it was weird that it did it right when I hooked the starter up. I’ve seen videos of people bypassing certain security feature through the settings in the radio and I’ve also seen people turn the key remove the ignition switch fuse then plug it back in and crank it over plan on trying those next but didn’t know if anyone else has had a similar issue. The key I do have is all metal and is the only key I got from the previous owner. Never had any issues with that key until now but figured it’s worth mentioning just incase that has something to do with it. I also have not started this motor since it was in the other vehicle so I might try jumping the starter just to see if the vehicle will run but I also don’t want to freak the computer out. I also did test my power to the starter with a multimeter and it is sending power when my ground is on the battery. Which is what led me to believe it might be something with the ignition switch. Thank you guys for always giving feedback. It’s made this motor replacement (my first motor swap/replacement ever) a whole lot easier! The car just clicks when I turn it over. No crank. I can attach videos and pictures if anyone has some sort of idea. I’ve been checking this thread every couple hours for an answer so I should be able to get you the info you would need! Thank you all!

 

I’ve got an issues with what I’m assuming is my neutral safety switch. Or something with my ignition. Car clicks but won’t start. Just replaced the entire engine. So maybe it’s from not being plugged in for such a long time? Idk everything is wired correctly and I kept the original wiring harness in the vehicle. New starter new battery. Realistically this thing should mechanically start but it’s just clicking. Throws a security light and a service vehicle soon light. I’ll add a video but I’m really just trying to get to the bottom of this. I’m so close yet so far lol I’ve tried trickle charging the new battery doesn’t appear to help. I really don’t think it’s a battery issue. I will also add that after turning the key about a minute later it will randomly cycle power and make an electrical noise then go away instantly (the same electrical noise you hear when turning the key)

 

You started three threads for the same issues, I merged them into one.

- The security light issue. When you swapped the engine, did you change the PCM? Ignition lock cylinder or the BCM? Reason I ask, that security light and no-start can be that something tripped the factory anti-theft system. If you did swap those, you shouldn't have had to do that and may want to put the originals back in. And if you did, what were the new ones from? There is what is known as a "PCM relearn" procedure when you do swap those items. That *might* fix that. But your second video sounds like the security light went out.
- You mentioned an unidentified clicking from somewhere on the car. At the moment, I am not sure what that would be. You may need a mechanic's stethoscope to try and locate.
- The hum from the fuse panel, this really sounds odd and really is suggesting a potential electrical issue.
- I did not catch, did you clear any codes and try to restart and then re-check for codes?
- You may need to re-check plugs and connections and wiring. Possibly hunt things with a volt meter.

 

I really appreciate the help and wish I noticed you answered a little sooner lolll. At the point of the video I had only swapped the motor itself. I put all of my original accessories on it. I did not change anything with electronics. Factory wiring harness and factory everything else you listed. Before the motor swap I had the security light come on every once in a while (which I had assumed was because the key that I bought the car with was just a solid metal key) then I had a sticking fuel injector which caused me to dump gas into my oil which then spun a rod bearing causing my car to sit for over a year. I then started working on it and got to the point of the video. Since then I have now swapped my ignition (with a new set of keys) and my ignition switch. It now cranks and wants to start but the dash is delayed and doesn’t show rpm or anything when it does it. (To get the new key and stuff to work I had to do the turn it over wait 10 min turn it over wait 10 min and then on the third time it actually cranked for the first time since the engine replacement.) I’m assuming that I definitely have to reprogram my bcm or ecm or something. Which is more than likely out of my capability unless you know a good way. I’ve got a good local shop that does a lot of LS swaps into old classics and stuff. I work with a guy who knows the owner. I’m more than likely going to bring it to them and just pay them to get it running. I’ll make sure to keep this thread updated as I know there is limited info out there on this type of stuff. Appreciate the help. I’m still learning but definitely learned a TON by going through all of this. I’m pretty confident it’s just my bcm or something sending some weird security signals to my car. If I can’t find any good re programming videos I hope this shop doesn’t charge me an arm and a leg lol

 

Check ALL power and grounds. Make sure they are clean and tight. I have used a jumper cable from the negative battery terminal to a good point on the motor. Then see what happens. Noise from the fuse panel is probably a low power issue and something in the area is making noise.

 

SO, the keys for these cars are just cut metal (no chips). The chip is in the lock cylinder. The process you did with the 10 minute cycles is commonly known as a "PCM re-learn". It syncs the "security key" (from the chip in the lock cylinder) with the BCM and PCM. The BCM should not be related to the no start, but the PCM could be. Curious what your shop finds to be it issue.