Needing to replace LIM and UIM gaskets
#12
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,217
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Carb cleaned and a rag. You need to ensure the surface is "degreased", other wise the RTV won't bond and if it doesn't bond, you don't have a good seal.
#13
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How would that compare to using brake cleaner or Acetone? The RTV is leaking oil on mine, so whatever the shop used to clean up didn't work.
#14
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,217
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Make sure when you are done, you change the oil. I recommend changing the oil again in about 100-300 miles (help get any fluid crap that went in the engine OUT at that time).
#15
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I suppose the products are about the same. You need something that can degrease the area. The shop that did it before may not have done anything to prep the surfaces, they may have put too little of the RTV down, any list of things.
Make sure when you are done, you change the oil. I recommend changing the oil again in about 100-300 miles (help get any fluid crap that went in the engine OUT at that time).
Make sure when you are done, you change the oil. I recommend changing the oil again in about 100-300 miles (help get any fluid crap that went in the engine OUT at that time).
How much RTV should go down? I've also read of some say not to put down too much. I know you want to put a dab in the corner before you lay the LIM gasket down.
#16
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,217
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I usually find myself using almost the entire tube (if not the entire tube) of what Fel-Pro gives with the LIM gasket kit. I think you said you have a 3800, if so, your kit should have the LIM gasket for both heads and a valley gasket (a rubber bar like piece). I like to "dry fit" the gasket pieces and make sure they fit (that I don't have something stupid to make a problem, like a piece of nylon/plastic stuck in a peg hole). And a dry fit of the LIM helps ensure you know how you have to set it down on the first crack.
All that being said, on the 3800, before seating and gaskets, put a dab on the corners of the valley. Next, seat the LIM gaskets on the heads. THen I like to run a bead from the lower corner of the LIM gasket across the valley and to the other LIM gasket. Then seat the rubber valley gasket. repeat the same process for a final bead. DON'T go crazy in the corners (as you already have that "dab" you started with). All this is doing is making sure the valley has a good seal. You should be able to get all these RTV applications out of the one tube given with the gasket set (if not, you went over board). If you have some left over, see if you were a little too thin somewhere, and if it all looks good, cap the tube and decide if you have enough to be worth saving (doubtful) or toss it.
All that being said, on the 3800, before seating and gaskets, put a dab on the corners of the valley. Next, seat the LIM gaskets on the heads. THen I like to run a bead from the lower corner of the LIM gasket across the valley and to the other LIM gasket. Then seat the rubber valley gasket. repeat the same process for a final bead. DON'T go crazy in the corners (as you already have that "dab" you started with). All this is doing is making sure the valley has a good seal. You should be able to get all these RTV applications out of the one tube given with the gasket set (if not, you went over board). If you have some left over, see if you were a little too thin somewhere, and if it all looks good, cap the tube and decide if you have enough to be worth saving (doubtful) or toss it.
#17
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Heya, just as a pointer (a week ago I asked this same question) I'll put the instruction link I received and my flickr page. LIM Gasket & Head Gasket Change Walkthrough & FAQ (3400) - Florida GM Club < Me being totally ignorant to MOST of the engine, Trewyn gave me these step by step instructions, me and my equally un-trained gf have had a very easy time and I'm sure (i havent done my own research) you could find one just as good (IDK if you need it, just giving it out) Edit: I used this for a 3.1L V6, but its for a 3400, i forgot to mention it may not be same engine, but the website COULD help)
Secondly, Flickr: NewFish24's Photostream
Thats my flickr link, Just for "Organizational Purpose" I put all bolts from EACH part in seperate bags, taped, and labeled them, same w/ hoses, wires, connections, etc etc, i used my back seat and trunk for stashing the bigger parts, and you can also see how close to critical I was to blowing my engine from all the pretty yellow gunk in there. Just thought I'd share what was shared with me, hope your quicker at it than we are! Just got my parts today, WOOT!
Secondly, Flickr: NewFish24's Photostream
Thats my flickr link, Just for "Organizational Purpose" I put all bolts from EACH part in seperate bags, taped, and labeled them, same w/ hoses, wires, connections, etc etc, i used my back seat and trunk for stashing the bigger parts, and you can also see how close to critical I was to blowing my engine from all the pretty yellow gunk in there. Just thought I'd share what was shared with me, hope your quicker at it than we are! Just got my parts today, WOOT!
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#18
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,217
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In general terms a 3100 and 3400 is the same engine. Same block, but the 3400 has some tweaks (like bigger cylinders, larger throttle body, flows more air).
But most 3100 and 3400 general service knowledge is equal.
But most 3100 and 3400 general service knowledge is equal.
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