I hope you intend on having the crank professional polished ... got some rust on the journals.

Also hope you marked the MAIN CAPS so they go back on the EXACT SAME spots, & directions, on the crank, rods too, ... if you are going to re-use the rods. Even the pistons, ... if you are going to separate for a wrist pin upgrade. Main caps will not matter if you are going to have it line bored, which I doubt because you have leaned away from a shop at almost every turn.

Furthermore, if you want this amazing engine that you are going to boost, change pistons (maybe) rods (maybe), different cam, spend a crapload of money on, etc., how come you have not even mentioned taking it to have the rotating assy to get balanced?! Let alone having the block cleaned, cylinders polished & honed/crosshatched, & NEW cam bearings installed.

If you are going to spend money, spend it in the right places. Including new piston rings, whether it has a 1,000 miles or not, & especially if you are going to boost it, & should you have the cylinders machined.

And what is a "core plug"? You mean the two "freeze plugs" that are visible on the top of the last photo? I am not sure, but it can be done at home, ... a machine shop has all ways done it for me before they dunked my block(s), then had new ones installed.

 

Don't do that- do it the right way and machine down the pump cover.


I have to ask- if you think the engine has anywhere near 1000 miles on it, then why would you want to tear it apart?

 

I will take it to a machine shop and have them do all everthing that needs to be done to it once I by all new bearings and piston rings. Yes I marked everything, I even put them in their own seperate zip lock bags and labeled the bags.

As for the freezer plugs, the book called them core plugs. Pic below......




Bumpin- I was going by what the told me. As you can see the engine has way more miles on it then 1,000. Plus it had water in the oil pan, So I figured it is safer to replace all bearings.

 

how can you get rings and bearings for an engine block and accessories that have not even been machined yet? You have no idea what the machine shop might even suggest you get. they might, although I doubt it, have to turn the crank. Then you'll need different size bearings. yeah, if you didn't open what you might have already had, you can return them and go through all the rigamarole, but why bother? Especially if you're gonna buy online and go through the shipping back and forth process?

wait for the purchases, especially the most basic of purchases, until after you get the block back, the heads too.

 

Ok Ill do that. thanks for the tip.

 

I think it would've been far cheaper just to get a decent mileage used engine that you could've just dropped in and ran with rather than messing with all of this work and machine shop costs. You'll probably end up spending the cost of a used engine just on machine shop labor and all new bearings/bolts/gaskets- not to mention what you paid for the engine itself.

I hope you at least got the current engine for dirt cheap, and didn't get ripped off thinking it was a 1000 mile old usable engine.

 

My plan was to get a low milage engine so I wouldnt have to to all this. I wanted to clean it up and start building it. I paid $1,170 for this suppose to be 1,000 mile engine.



I found this thread on another forum and they say this L67 motor has 1,000 miles on it. Look at the build up on the pistons. My piston look better then that. And our cylinder walls look the same.


3400-3800SC Swap Complete. Waiting for tune. - 2000-2005 Engine, Exhaust and Transmission - NAIOA

 

Ouch, that sucks. Could've had a complete running, driving GTP for little more than double that- or even cheaper if you were ok with an NA 3800.

Guess it doesn't really matter how clean it is though if you have to go through and rebuild the whole thing anyways, huh?

Did they warn you about any of it, or give you any money back at least once you found all the problems?

 

I could have got an L32 engine.


No warning. Didnt even try to contact them Its been about a month since I got the engine.


I got bored so I started cleaning the pistons.

 

Wouldn't that have been a better bet for a big turbo build? especially due to the lower compression allowing for more boost