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My L26 Performance build

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  #11  
Old 10-21-2012, 09:55 AM
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start building it back up from the ground up. getting every thing that you would want on the bottom end better conecting rods and pistons and put in the cam at the same time. i would look up the type of pistons for a 3800 supercharged to see if you could get the pistons so that the boost would take from a turbo
If the goal was just to replace everything anyways, then I definitely would never have spent the money on an ultra low mileage engine. There are plenty of high mileage 3800s out there for dirt cheap if you're just going to rebuild it anyways.

IMO- you've got a good low mileage bottom end- just leave it together. Stick a cam in while its out, upgrade whatever other bolt on parts- but leave the crank/rods/pistons together to keep reliability up.

the 3500 i got back from the machine shop can take boost from a turbo a small one takes 12. the one from anouther member here his about 8-10. if i have a really good blow off valve for it.
Why would quality of the BOV determine how much boost you can run? Boost level is controlled by the wastegate, unless you've got some crazy tiny turbo that just can't make the airflow.
 
  #12  
Old 10-21-2012, 09:58 AM
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That thing must have been running awfully rich to leave that much deposit on the pistons in only 1,000 miles. Since you found water in a cylinder I would do a complete tear down, tanking, magnaflux and have the decks checked for straightness at bare minimum. Were there any obvious signs of a head gasket failure when you pulled in apart? New heads will insure they are flat, but it would be a major bummer to put all that time and money into it only to find out you have a warped deck surface.
 
  #13  
Old 10-21-2012, 10:05 AM
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Looks like u got a good build planned cant wait to see how it turns out
 
  #14  
Old 10-21-2012, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 03SSLE
That thing must have been running awfully rich to leave that much deposit on the pistons in only 1,000 miles. Since you found water in a cylinder I would do a complete tear down, tanking, magnaflux and have the decks checked for straightness at bare minimum. Were there any obvious signs of a head gasket failure when you pulled in apart? New heads will insure they are flat, but it would be a major bummer to put all that time and money into it only to find out you have a warped deck surface.

I don't think its that bad.

I finally got the HB off and the timing cover off. Timing chain looks almost like new. Ill get pics and post them.

If I decide not to do a complete tear down. Can ii clean it with the pistons in it?
 
  #15  
Old 10-22-2012, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 03JGMonte
Looks like u got a good build planned cant wait to see how it turns out
I been planning this for years lol.


Heres some pictures I took.


HB off finally.









Time chain ( I think it looks really good)






Timing chain damper ( I dont know about this . about how many miles would make these marks.)




Heres a look at the crank







Oh yea I forgot to tell yall, when I drained the oil. It had water in it.



EDIT......



I pulled out the camshaft









I just ordered a rollmaster double chain timing set and the stage 4 turbo cam.
 

Last edited by 1FasImp; 10-22-2012 at 12:43 PM.
  #16  
Old 10-22-2012, 11:44 PM
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you may be buying it already but i figured i would remind you if you forgot. buy a new cam bolt, there stretch bolts and cant be reused. also are you using arp head studs?
 
  #17  
Old 10-23-2012, 08:20 AM
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i am waiting for the money for a blow off valve right now yea right now it is a small one but not a crazy small one. it is the main reason why i didnt put the engine in yet i wanted to get every thing first thats all. sorry if i stoll the thread just giving bumpin a status and the why i hope you dont mind.
 
  #18  
Old 10-23-2012, 08:22 AM
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the reason why i mentioned machine shop was just for the cleaning. just in case of water colecting in the engine oil. also if it was run hot they would have noticed any thing thats off.
 
  #19  
Old 10-23-2012, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by turbo monte
you may be buying it already but i figured i would remind you if you forgot. buy a new cam bolt, there stretch bolts and cant be reused. also are you using arp head studs?


I havent got that yet, I will buy that when I buy the 2 front cover gaskets. I am also getting the arp head studs also, just later down the road.




Originally Posted by monte07
the reason why i mentioned machine shop was just for the cleaning. just in case of water colecting in the engine oil. also if it was run hot they would have noticed any thing thats off.

Thats what I figured to. Im also going to have the cylinder heads checked, surfacing if needed, and probably PnP.
 
  #20  
Old 11-08-2012, 04:00 PM
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Guess what came in today. My STG 4 cam and double roller timing chain.

I still need to tear it down to get the block cleaned. I think I will do that myself to save money. I honestly think it has more miles then 1,000






Edit.......


Update



Well I decided to tear down the rest of the motor. I wanted to see what the bearings looked like. I took lots of pics.




Heres the knock sensors.






#5 piston and rod bearings









#6 piston and rod bearing







Crankshaft and bearings






Main caps and bearings. ( Left to right= 1-4)






#1 main cap bearing






Engine block






Next on the list to buy is bearings.
How do I get the core plugs out?
 

Last edited by 1FasImp; 11-09-2012 at 03:39 PM.


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