I did everything but take the valve covers off in about 15 minutes. Iv actaully seen the LIM replaced without pulling even the alternator off. I guess I should grab the valve cover gaskets uper intake gaskets, LIM gaskets plugs and wires while I'm down their. Haha can I call this a top end rebuild yet? Anything else I need to grab?

 

Found all the gaskets I need for $75. They are all fel-pro. Bought the paint for the valve covers and the rest of the engine components I'm painting. Only issue now is getting a 70-150 inch pounds torque wrench. This is gonna set back my lighting mods.

 

the gaskets you found are they the aluminum ones? make sure they are, dont use the crappy nylon ones or you will have the same issue again soon...

idk how you can change the LIM gaskets with the alt on..... must be magic because every car ive done the alt has to come off to get the tensioner assembly off that has the coolant elbows in it lol

 

I thought it was crazy but he did It. Called it "flat lining" it. Yeah I made sure they were aluminum.

 

Here is the video of "flat lining" the LIM

 

I'll take the alt off every time. Trying to fight that bolt and coolant elbow isn't worth letting it on IMO.

Plus if you pull the alt and tensioner you can change both elbows.

 

I'm with John, I'll take the alt off. On that gen of L36 Series 2, the tensioner bracket only has one replacable elbow, the other is cast aluminum which is part of the bracket (I've seen them "sheer" before, causing you to replace the tensioner bracket). That is the only reason I can think of that he did not take that alt off (so you are pulling the LIM out and not tempted to mis-handle the tensioner bracket and bust that elbow). I still think his way makes the job an annoyance, that alt clogs up space around your work area.
Our L36 has 2 replaceable coolant elbows (and since ours are nylon elbows, if one is in bad shape, odds are so is the other).

While it's a part, do check around the EGR stove pipe for damage. Heat of the pipe breaks down the nylon of the UIM. If the UIM is damaged, you can plug the coolant holes on the LIM pushing coolant through the UIM.

 

Yeah iv heard about checking the stove pipe. Iv already replaced the coolant elbows with the aluminum ones, that's how i discovered this problem. If the nylon on the upper manifold is burn through what do I do to fix it?

 

A good way to test the nylon of the UIM, if you can use an air compressor, put your finger on one coolant hole and use the compressor to put air through the other sides (odds are droplets of anti freeze are inside and will blow out where the stove pipe sits).

You have two options:
- Replace the UIM. APN makes one with a re-enforced bushing/sleeve for the stove pipe. See the link below, it's the entire kit of what you need to change the UIM:
GM Intake Manifold Kit
- Tap and plug the 2 coolant holes in the LIM (the push the coolant into the UIM, through the throttle body and back out). I did it on my Monte and I enlarged a coolant bypass for more flow (not a requirement, we plugged my dad's 3800 in his Grand Prix and never enlarged the bypass). For "extra measure", you can fill the holes with JB Weld on the UIM. Below is a link regarding some custom work to my LIM:
'04 Monte Carlo SS - Port Matched LIM

 

I thought I read that someone said there was an aluminum upper intake from the series 3 that would fit on the series 2, is this something you would suggest as a replacement?