6th Gen ('00-'05): Help me burn a grand
#1
Help me burn a grand
Howdy
I've got an '03 SS that is a daily driver. Been happy with it, thinking about trading off on a used -09 G8 GT but really don't want to pick up a payment again. I'm thinking about just doing a few power adders and keeping the SS for another couple years.
Been reading the forums and visited the parts retailers for the 3800 and I'm basically down to two options.
Stay NA and do UIM (mine has a slow coolant leak), HV3, ER rockers, 2.5" down pipe, PCM.
That one is around a grand with gaskets and such and is basically a Saturday afternoon project. For those that have done something similar, how is the "seat of the pants" change in around town driving? Does it wake up a mildly sporty power plant and feel like there is something there?
Option 2 is the L67 top swap. I stopped by a local boneyard yesterday and they have 4 L67's in various Buicks and Pontiacs. Told me I can have the top end, pulleys, coils misc other stuff for $125 from any of them.
That's obviously much longer than a Saturday afternoon. Really not even looking forward to the Saturday afternoon in the bone yard pulling that stuff. In any case after some porting work on the heads and blower, 3" down pipe and PCM I'm probably still in the $1K range.
For those that have driven both, how much more "seat of the pants" power, throttle response ,etc. does the lightly modded L67 have over the Option 1 NA.
I've got experience turning wrenches going back to my first car , a 1970 GTO 400 that I built to the max. Crazy fast, Also built up a 911 Targa in the mid 80's. I've blueprinted and built many V8's Chevy, Ford, Dodge. Always do everything but the milling myself. Did some pretty radical porting on the Porsche heads and that was a fun car to drive.
Anyway, forums are a good way to separate you from your money. Just thought I'd say hi and get some advice from you folks that have experience with these mods.
BTW, I won't be taking the SS to the track, won't be street racing SRT8's just looking to wake it up a bit.
Thanks
I've got an '03 SS that is a daily driver. Been happy with it, thinking about trading off on a used -09 G8 GT but really don't want to pick up a payment again. I'm thinking about just doing a few power adders and keeping the SS for another couple years.
Been reading the forums and visited the parts retailers for the 3800 and I'm basically down to two options.
Stay NA and do UIM (mine has a slow coolant leak), HV3, ER rockers, 2.5" down pipe, PCM.
That one is around a grand with gaskets and such and is basically a Saturday afternoon project. For those that have done something similar, how is the "seat of the pants" change in around town driving? Does it wake up a mildly sporty power plant and feel like there is something there?
Option 2 is the L67 top swap. I stopped by a local boneyard yesterday and they have 4 L67's in various Buicks and Pontiacs. Told me I can have the top end, pulleys, coils misc other stuff for $125 from any of them.
That's obviously much longer than a Saturday afternoon. Really not even looking forward to the Saturday afternoon in the bone yard pulling that stuff. In any case after some porting work on the heads and blower, 3" down pipe and PCM I'm probably still in the $1K range.
For those that have driven both, how much more "seat of the pants" power, throttle response ,etc. does the lightly modded L67 have over the Option 1 NA.
I've got experience turning wrenches going back to my first car , a 1970 GTO 400 that I built to the max. Crazy fast, Also built up a 911 Targa in the mid 80's. I've blueprinted and built many V8's Chevy, Ford, Dodge. Always do everything but the milling myself. Did some pretty radical porting on the Porsche heads and that was a fun car to drive.
Anyway, forums are a good way to separate you from your money. Just thought I'd say hi and get some advice from you folks that have experience with these mods.
BTW, I won't be taking the SS to the track, won't be street racing SRT8's just looking to wake it up a bit.
Thanks
#3
Top swap is the best bang for your buck. A guy did all bolt ons and a cam with an L36 motor, only got a 14.4 in the 1/4 mile out of it. A top swap will get you in the high 14's, plus the porting you've mentioned, that's low 14's at the slowest IMO.
#4
Be nice to match the good styling with a little more pep.
I'm sure you're right. I guess I need to decide if I want to go to that much work on this one or just trade it on one of the later generation Detroit model
Last edited by Converted; 12-08-2014 at 04:58 PM.
#5
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,163
I have not driven a top-swap car, but I would imagine Nitehawk is correct, it would be the most bang for the buck. Keep in mind, you will need a custom tune (compression ration on the NA vs SC motors is different).
If you wanted a bunch of ZZP bolt-ons, you missed Black Friday (where they put on some crazy deals on everything).
I focused on keeping my car NA and trying to make it faster (admittedly, I have yet to run it down the track. But I have:
- HV3 (for the L26 Series III aluminum UIM)
- Custom ported L26 UIM (I did it mostly for the looks of the aluminum, but I have noticed the car has more giddy-up after I did it, so it either fixed something I never knew was wrong OR it made a touch of difference)
- Ported L67 throttle body
- Port matched LIM
- ZZP 2.5" DownPipe and High Flow Cat
- L67 coils
- Resonator delete
- ZZP ER Rockers
- ZZP Stainless PLOG
- Wizaird CAI
I think that covers all the performance stuff. Keep in mind, ZZP intends/recommends you to use the HV3 with the ER Rockers and HV Throttle Body (I cheated and went with the L67 Throttle Body).
All the porting work was done by me and a Dremel. I have been running a tune from PCMforLess.com that I've been happy with but early this past fall, I have begun a quest to try and re-tune it myself. If you want the biggest way to get a change on the performance of your drive train, have a seasoned profession re-tune your PCM (but do it after any bolt on mods are done). That can help you pick up some more power easy.
Actually, the G8 is an Australian import (originally from GM's Holden line out there, much like the last GTO).
If you wanted a bunch of ZZP bolt-ons, you missed Black Friday (where they put on some crazy deals on everything).
I focused on keeping my car NA and trying to make it faster (admittedly, I have yet to run it down the track. But I have:
- HV3 (for the L26 Series III aluminum UIM)
- Custom ported L26 UIM (I did it mostly for the looks of the aluminum, but I have noticed the car has more giddy-up after I did it, so it either fixed something I never knew was wrong OR it made a touch of difference)
- Ported L67 throttle body
- Port matched LIM
- ZZP 2.5" DownPipe and High Flow Cat
- L67 coils
- Resonator delete
- ZZP ER Rockers
- ZZP Stainless PLOG
- Wizaird CAI
I think that covers all the performance stuff. Keep in mind, ZZP intends/recommends you to use the HV3 with the ER Rockers and HV Throttle Body (I cheated and went with the L67 Throttle Body).
All the porting work was done by me and a Dremel. I have been running a tune from PCMforLess.com that I've been happy with but early this past fall, I have begun a quest to try and re-tune it myself. If you want the biggest way to get a change on the performance of your drive train, have a seasoned profession re-tune your PCM (but do it after any bolt on mods are done). That can help you pick up some more power easy.
Actually, the G8 is an Australian import (originally from GM's Holden line out there, much like the last GTO).
#8
Top swap all the way (if those are your only two choices). I'm the guy that did the NA build that netted me a 14.4 second 1/4 mile. It was fun, but really exensive for little gains. Going turbo is the best bang for your buck, but otherwise a top swap is the way to go.
#10
Hey nitehawk! Buck's Lumina was pretty cool. IIRC he had his Lumina run a 14.2 1/4 and probably could have ran a high 13 before he supercharged it. I think his NA 3800 put down something like 234whp. Almost unheard of for an NA 3800.