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Cam Sensor Issue

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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 04:44 PM
  #1  
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Default Cam Sensor Issue

Hey guys. The Montes been giving me a major issue after switching to the Holley HP. The camshaft position sensor refuses to read. I've triple checking its wiring, replaced the sensor with a known good sensor, changed stuff in the ECU, but I cannot get a cam signal. I'm fairly certain I put the magnet in the double chain cam gear. But that is what I've got a question about. Has anyone had any issues with the cam sensor after installing a double chain timing set and using the thicker front cover gasket?
 
Old Jan 21, 2022 | 09:51 PM
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Sadly, this is out of my league of experience.
 
Old Jan 21, 2022 | 11:36 PM
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Hi, let me get an inquiry out to Matt. He is a Pro with the Holley systems, certified Installer, knows all the peeps at the HQ tech support. Any other issues? Wont text him till Monday, try to give him his time off on weekends.
 
Old Jan 22, 2022 | 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ZIPPY02
Hi, let me get an inquiry out to Matt. He is a Pro with the Holley systems, certified Installer, knows all the peeps at the HQ tech support. Any other issues? Wont text him till Monday, try to give him his time off on weekends.
Thanks for trying to help out. I haven't run the engine for more than a minute or two by using DIS waste fire/ignoring the cam sensor, so I cant say for sure what else might be wrong. The AFR was showing like 29, and I haven't done a static timing check yet. The engine cranks really slow too. It's got an ST5 cam, and 150lbs springs, so I kind of expected that, but I'm hoping I should be able to work that out once I get the startup tuning done. I'm using a stock starter wired straight to the battery using about 8 ft of 4 gauge welding cable and the voltage when cranking is about 9-9.5V.

I've attached my global file.
 
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File Type: zip
Base Map V6.zip (13.8 KB, 3 views)
Old Jan 22, 2022 | 12:51 AM
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Okay will screen shot this reply of yours to Matt with file.

Also I use the MSD box, this may be of help, look it over.

A capacitive discharge ignition designed to complement electronic fuel injection systems. MSD now offers the perfect addition to your MSD Atomic EFI or another aftermarket electronic fuel injection, the 6EFI Ignition Control. The 6EFI is designed to work in harmony with electronic fuel injection systems and comes with detailed wiring instructions making installation a breeze. Increased throttle response, smoother idle, quicker starts, and full ignition power throughout the entire RPM range are all benefits of adding a 6EFI ignition to your fuel-injected engine. The ignition offers capacitive discharge technology and will fire a series of multiple sparks that last for 20° of crankshaft rotation when the engine is running at lower rpm. An adjustable rev limiter will protect the engine in the event of a missed shift or driveline failure. This rpm is adjustable with rotary dials in 100 rpm increments. If you have a 4, 6, or 8-cylinder engine with EFI, the 6EFI will connect and fire it up!

Features:

  • Specifically designed for use with EFI systems
  • Detailed instructions for installation with various EFI systems
  • Capacitive discharge technology provides quick starts, smooth idle and full ignition power throughout the RPM range
  • Compact design
  • Built-in rev limiter for over-rev protection
  • Works on 12 volt electrical systems using a distributor
  • Easily connects to magnetic pickup, electronic, and even points distributors

 
Old Jan 25, 2022 | 03:11 PM
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I can't help on the cam button question either. I run a double roller, but not a thick gasket. I would highly doubt its an issue though as thats not an unusual thing to do and there are a ton of double rollers out there.

Id break out the meter and back probe the signal vs ground to see what the actual voltage is doing (ignoring whatever the pcm is telling you its seeing - just looking at your meter to see what its actually doing).

Originally Posted by WolvenScout
The engine cranks really slow too. It's got an ST5 cam, and 150lbs springs, so I kind of expected that
IMO something is wrong there. Ive got a IS3 blower cam (roughly the same base lift) on 1.7s with 150s and raised compression and mine cranks completely normal. No idea how dynamic compression compares between the two, but I can't imagine its drastically higher on the ST5 - the the point of making it crank noticeably slow.
 

Last edited by bumpin96monte; Jan 25, 2022 at 03:19 PM.
Old Jan 25, 2022 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ZIPPY02
Okay will screen shot this reply of yours to Matt with file.
Any word back yet Zippy?

Originally Posted by bumpin96monte
Id break out the meter and back probe the signal vs ground to see what the actual voltage is doing (ignoring whatever the pcm is telling you its seeing - just looking at your meter to see what its actually doing).
I think I'll try that, but it's going to be a bit difficult. I'll have to do it during cranking, since the ECU will be trying to use the cam sensor, it wont register rpm, and wont give spark.

Originally Posted by bumpin96monte
No idea how dynamic compression compares between the two, but I can't imagine its drastically higher on the ST5 - the the point of making it crank noticeably slow.
I just figured out the slow crank. In the fuel table, I started with 3 lbs/h as a guess. Since the last time I ran the engine the wideband was showing super lean, just now I tried starting it with 5 lbs/h in the base table, and leaving the cranking fuel alone. That really made it crank slow, and I don't think I had the jump box hooked up, even though the battery was at 12.5. Then I tried 2.5 lbs/h with the jump box and that lit the motor almost instantly. It was idling at about 600-700rpm, IAC was 100%, and any attempt to give it gas lugged the motor down. It was still showing 35 AFR, but the ECU was reportedly dumping almost 8 lbs/h into the motor.

https://youtu.be/P4Q0Ln7XKrc
​​​​​​​
 
Old Jan 25, 2022 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by WolvenScout
I think I'll try that, but it's going to be a bit difficult. I'll have to do it during cranking, since the ECU will be trying to use the cam sensor, it wont register rpm, and wont give spark.
You mentioned you can run it on waste spark ignoring the cam sensor. Maybe it still powers that circuit, but just doesn't read the data coming back? Just thinking that would let you run the car while taking the reading.

Heck for a rough check as long as you can get it to power the sensor with just key on, you could just turn it over by hand to see what happens when the cam button is in front of the sensor. Thatll at least tell you if its functioning at all.
 
Old Jan 26, 2022 | 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by WolvenScout
Any word back yet Zippy?


I think I'll try that, but it's going to be a bit difficult. I'll have to do it during cranking, since the ECU will be trying to use the cam sensor, it wont register rpm, and wont give spark.


I just figured out the slow crank. In the fuel table, I started with 3 lbs/h as a guess. Since the last time I ran the engine the wideband was showing super lean, just now I tried starting it with 5 lbs/h in the base table, and leaving the cranking fuel alone. That really made it crank slow, and I don't think I had the jump box hooked up, even though the battery was at 12.5. Then I tried 2.5 lbs/h with the jump box and that lit the motor almost instantly. It was idling at about 600-700rpm, IAC was 100%, and any attempt to give it gas lugged the motor down. It was still showing 35 AFR, but the ECU was reportedly dumping almost 8 lbs/h into the motor.

https://youtu.be/P4Q0Ln7XKrc
Hi, sorry, Matt and I can not open file. Please email it to me at FAST02MONTE@YAHOO.COM
 
Old Jan 26, 2022 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by ZIPPY02
Hi, sorry, Matt and I can not open file. Please email it to me at FAST02MONTE@YAHOO.COM
Done, hope it works this time. It's a V6 file.
 
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