Car has about 109,000 on it. I know the oem plugs and wires are 100,000, so I am going to replace them. Also going to do the PCV. Is there anything else I should be doing while i'm buying parts?

Fuel filter and cabin air filter are up to date.

Thanks to anyone who replies!!!

 

Air filter? MAF Cleaner?

 

Last time your anti-freeze was flushed? Transmission?

 

Deff check trans & coolant if u havnt already,

 

- Plugs (stick with AC Delco if you can, but stay AWAY from BOSCH plugs)
- Inspect/change the belt
- Change the upstream O2 (the heat element does degrade over time, not the end of the world if you don't change it, but this may be a good time to do it).
- Use a turkey baster to empty the brake and power steering reservoirs, top off with fresh fluid (this is not a flush of those fluids BUT at least a change out of some nasty old fluid and in with some new fluid).

If you already his air, cabin and fuel filters, then you're good there....

 

There's no point in doing that to the brake reservoirs.

I did a full flush on the power steering fluid by popping off the return line and running fresh fluid through the system till the fresh fluid was dumping out the return line. Though, instead of going through all of that again. I'll just maintain it by sucking the fluid out the reservoir and refilling it every year.

I also did a full flush of the coolant by flushing it with distilled water. But next time, I'll just dump the radiator every couple of years and refill vs. doing a full flush every 5 years. I also changed the radiator hoses out at that time and also put in a new Stant thermostat.

But the brake fluid needs to be flushed.

And also change the transmission filter and refill with transmission fluid. Dexron 6 gets recommended I see here on the board.

 

That's because it's the newest semi-synthetic that runs cooler and compatible with Dex 3 systems.

 

Not sure why you don't feel there is value in freshening up the brake fluid. It does collect crap and wear like any other fluid. Then you later mention flushing the brake fluid (which if you're going to do that, purges the old crap in the res). So I'm not sure I understand your response....

 

I thought Dex 6 was fully synthetic?

A while back on some other GM forums I was on. There was debate on Dex 6 going in a Dex 3 system. Some recommended sticking with Dex 3 as the transmission was designed for Dex 3 and not Dex 6. As I think Dex 6 was designed for transmissions with tighter tolerances, but I could be wrong.

But there were some high end transmission shops some mentioned that recommend sticking with Dex 3 in a Dex 3 system. I believe there were some performance trans builders sticking with Dex 3. Some people mentioned having experienced shifting problems after puting in Dex 6. Some didn't have any problems. This is with regards to a 700r4.

One problem with Dex 3 is GM doesn't license it anymore. And I've read the aftermarket has since messed with the formula. So, I guess you don't really know what you are getting when you get a jug of non-licensed Dex 3.

 

What I was saying is just sucking the brake fluid out the reservoir and refilling it doesn't do anything other than sucking out some crud that collects in there. Even then, there's still crud in the rest of the brake system that would probably get in the reservoirs afterwards.

But you're supposed to do that before you flush the brake fluid. So, if you put fresh brake fluid in the reservoirs, then you'd also need to flush the brake fluid afterwards. If you keep your brake fluid flushed, there shouldn't be alot of crud collect in the reservoirs unless maybe the rubber in the brake system is failing and crumbling away.

Brake fluid doesn't flow like power steering fluid. It just sits there and gets compressed. So, a tune up of the brake system requires it to get flushed at least. Where as you might could get by sucking and refilling the power steering fluid because that fluid flows through the system. I know some do that every so often to always keep some fresh fluid in the power steering system.