So its got +12 when turning the key to start from the ignition all the way up to the theft deterrent module now, but you can't get an output from that module even with the right bypass resistance?

Sounds like grabbing another module is a good next step. I wouldnt bother getting a new key and all that garbage though, I'd just solder in the right resistor to 'bypass' it and be done with it. Its not a particularly useful theft system anyways as there are so few resistance options. As long as the replacement module is functional, the resistor bypass will work fine - yours just must have internal electrical damage.

Looking at the wiring diagram, is it possible to provide +12 to the output side of this module? I'm just thinking if you've already found several items fried that the next thing downstream might be fried too and it would be nice to find a way sooner than later to identify that in case you need to grab more stuff from the junkyard.

 

So on the topic of other items being fried wouldn't the current stop at the end of whatever part got fried? I mean that's where it got burnt is where the current was able to escape, correct?

In the diagram there is a yellow wire that comes off of the ignition switch and goes to the fuse block and then another yellow wire that comes off of that wire and goes straight to the deterrent relay so there's two separate wires that are yellow that go to the theft deterrent. I don't believe that I noticed if either one was burnt or not but I did check the connector at the neutral switch and it looked like it was fried.

At the same time though the fuse box also looked like it was fried on the metal plate underneath. Which would basically contradict my previous comment of the current dying where the part was burnt. Remind me again because my education on multimeters is a little shady, but if I want to test a specific wire would I just put a lead on each end of that wire? I just want to make sure that I'm reading these wires correctly.

 

Right, the circuit will show 12 volts on that start wire circuit up to the point in the circuit that's open / damaged. You won't be able to pick up 12 volts after that point in that circuit as its no longer a complete circuit due to the damaged component.

So you're just following said circuit diagram from the + battery terminal all the way to the point this circuit loses the 12 volts its supposed to have when cranking. I suggested starting at the ignition as presumably you've confirmed that had power going to it when you replaced it.

Depends what you're checking for. I'm proposing you probe the start wire circuit for 12 volts. In that case you'd hook your negative multimeter wire to a known good ground, then probe the connector wire in question with the positive multimeter probe to see what voltage it shows. Of course there could be multiple opens in the same circuit depending how bad the damage is.

Measuring current / resistance are both done differently from voltage.



Thinking about this more - you've already replaced a ton of damaged stuff and appear to have identified yet another damaged part. If all this stuff was really bad, the chances that this thing is actually going to run and drive once you get it to turn over is pretty low. Seems nearly impossible that the problem wouldve only fried a bunch of components in one isolated circuit (starter) yet left everything else in the car untouched.

Have you thought about the long term plan if this toasted a lot more components? Almost wonder if you're better off gutting a junkyard car for all of the electrical, buying a wrecked donor car, etc?

 

Hey what's up bumpin96monte? It's funny you mentioned the option of a second vehicle because I was actually discussing that with somebody earlier today. This guy has the same year make and model for sale for $500 down from $1,500. It does need a head gasket, but I wouldn't be buying it to drive. I was thinking along the same lines as yourself, use it as a donor vehicle and take what I need off it as needed. Starting with the starting system. SMH... I'm actually going to be looking into that this evening to see if it's still available and go from there. I'll let you know.

And yeah I'm still trying to figure it all out barely begin testing the wiring on the starter from the battery and decided to jump it via bridging terminals and it only whirred/whined. Basically you didn't catch the flying wheel so that was a problem in itself and I just replaced the starter because I didn't even want to deal with it. LOL!

Still need to finish running down the wiring checks, but as for actual components, the only thing left in the starting system would be the theft deterrent module and relay to check. Conveniently they're located behind the the glove box, and the dash, up high, behind a bar where of course you are unable to conveniently get at it without removing the dash.

Let me ask you this though. I'm not sure how familiar you are with the theft deterrent system, but I've noticed when I attempt to start the car, I hear two relays clicking. One in the engine compartment on the driver side, but also the theft deterrent relay in the dash. Does that sound about right to you? Both of those relays kicking off when the ignition is turned to start? I really hope this other daughter car works out because I really don't feel like taking my dash down now.

And the only reason I wouldn't fix the donor card as opposed to mine is simply the mileage mine has 75,000 miles while the donor car has about twice that. Well back to work.

 

$500 isn't a bad deal at all. Youll at least know you've got every single wire and component needed to fix your car without paying junkyard prices for every single piece you pull. Itll be a lot more convenient having it all on site too vs having to drive to the junkyard each time. Plus you can probably get half of that back from the shell when you go to scrap it out.

Honestly I'm not real sure about relays clicking when starting. My experience with this security system is limited to a few years of remote start installs back in college. I never had to troubleshoot a malfunctioning factory security system (as obviously they couldn't drive the car in for the install if it was broken); all I did was install either permanent (if their key was worn / finicky around the resistor) or remote start triggered bypasses to make the stock system believe the key was present and good to go.

It does seem to make sense to have 2 relays click though as you'd at least have the starter relay engage and generally 1 other relay temporarily disengage (usually the accessory power) with the key in the start position.

 

So I figured I would post an update on my issue with hopes that maybe it can help somebody else with a similar one.

So, after replacing the, starter (3 times), the battery and cables, neutral safety switch, ignition switch and ignition cylinder AND my PCM, I was still where I started with no crank. I put a resistor bypass on the line to the TDM, which did nothing, until I just put a bypass from Timers, on the TDM itself. Doing that now gave me back my injectors, but still no crank from the ignition.

After a month of not having any wheels, I got tired of toying around with the damn thing and just decided to hardwire a switch panel to the starter. Granted it's not the way I originally wanted it, but at least the TDM won't be messing with my ignition anymore. Downside is I don't like walking away from a job without it being completed the right way, regardless of the workaround. Just sits in the back of your mind wondering...

Hope this helps somewhat.