You guys are getting WAY too technical. I hate to speak for they guy because I dont know what he wants, but seriously its some overspray on the dogleg. If it were my car I would grab the compound and rub it out, but thats just me. When you use Meguiars clay bar, it tells you to use scratch X before waxing anyway so whats the advantage, same amount of steps just more work.

 

i completely agree with matt, its a very simple fix thats being told way overcomplicatedly (if thats even a word). if it were a 100k dollar showcar maybe go all out like that but its a daily driver with a bit of overspray and quite frankly matts way is the simpliest, easiest, and will give the same results as going insane with a ton of work... my .02cents

 

Thanks chris, and sorry guys if I seem a bit testy but I spent 12-5 stripping 5 coats of paint of two grand prix doors and im not in the best of mood right now.

 

no biggie bro we all have our stressful days, im just glad you are still willing and able to give your PROFESSIONAL opinion on how to solve this problem

 

But wait, Im only 18 remember, I dont get a professional opinion. Lol

 

lmao, well in my eyes by what ive read and heard from you you're professional enough for me...btw i think ur next in the photoshop mania

 

uh oh. lol

 

Ahhhhh, Do it the old school way....lil bit of gasoline......[sm=crossbonesgif.gif][sm=crossbonesgif.gif]

 

I get my HiTemp stuff from www.topoftheline.com I got some of their Extreme Cut leveler recently and oh my goodness, that stuff is awesome. It's a pretty agressive compound/leveler but it finishes down do nicely that i've been tempted to skip the polishing step and go straight to LSP, but I know better than that so I do it how it's supposed to be done.

I have lots of different products that I use with different pads and different machines, depending on the severity of the correction needed, the hardness of the paint and the age of the paint. But when it comes to cutting, HiTemp is hard to beat, it's my go to product for heavy correction. What buffer and pads do you use?

I own a detailing business, I can't help it. You can do what you want, i'm not trying to convince you otherwise, but I know that it's never good to start with the most agressive product when doing any correction so I just want to make that clear for those who are thinking about doing this type of stuff themselves.

And just to clarify, it's not more steps no matter what you use because whenever you use clay or rubbing compound you're supposed to polish and then wax anyway like I mentioned earlier. Can you go straight from clay or compound to wax, sure, but it's not advised. Why? Because if you were to apply compound to your car and then wipe it off, hold a halogen light over the area you just compounded and then over an area you didn't and tell me you don't see a noticeable difference. The compounded area will be noticeably less shiny. That's because you just micromarred the surface with thousands of tiny scratches so the surface can no longer reflect light like the area that wasn't compounded. You don't wax to get the shine back, that's what polish is for, wax is to seal in the shine. You shouldn't see any difference in shine when you properly detail your car because the polish is what gives the car the shine, the wax gives the car the depth and protection. If you wax right after compounding or claying, all you're doing is filling in the scratches on the surface but as you wash the car the scratches will come back as you've just filled them in temporarily.

 

matt d00d you're up on the photoshop thread